Haha, you guys are making me want to go grab gears!
Truth! I already owe Mr. Rustypwnz a meet up at ORP.
Truth! I already owe Mr. Rustypwnz a meet up at ORP.
NikwoaC's "Commitment Issues" Engine Build
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I think you are doing the right thing man. You have a new engine you are breaking in also. I dont think 500 miles of cruising is a bad idea in your case.
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
word! let me degree this damn cam in and lets roll! well bring all the pos cars out, i need to rebuild the engine soon for the dsm and get it out, I want to go 130+mph trap in that thing.
Actually, I feel the opposite about the engine. I think one of the best ways to break the motor, and the rings specifically, in is to run it hard. Rings break in fast, though, and I don't think it's a 500+ mile event. I do change the oil several times, though, over the first 1000 or so to get the little metal filings out of there. Plus, it gives me an idea of any problems that may be lurking.
With the clutch, stick with the plan. I have glazed a clutch and needed to replace it as a result of pushing it too hard after slapping everything back together. It was a conscious decision to take the risk. However, if you have the time, then you should take it and do things right. You will be better off in the long run taking it easy on the clutch. Also, I don't feel it's a mileage thing. I mean, throwing it in 5th or 6th and taking a 500 mile drive won't do anything. It's just the assumption that you'll shift it enough to break in the disk and pressure plate.
Yeah, I don't think you'll be disappointed on the # the car makes. I've seen lesser combos make more. An old AFR 165 combo with an Edebrock 5.0 intake and an Ed Curtis cam, that convinced me to go that route, ran 118mph @ around 3200 lbs. Which is roughly 340rwhp. That's not common for small AFRs on a 302, but I also made an actual 311rwhp on a dyno with my 302 at 5300 RPM - probably a little more after I finished a couple more bolt-ons. As long as your motor carries that kind of torque to 5600 RPM, then it will surpass your goal. I believe it will carry more torque higher in the powerband.
With the clutch, stick with the plan. I have glazed a clutch and needed to replace it as a result of pushing it too hard after slapping everything back together. It was a conscious decision to take the risk. However, if you have the time, then you should take it and do things right. You will be better off in the long run taking it easy on the clutch. Also, I don't feel it's a mileage thing. I mean, throwing it in 5th or 6th and taking a 500 mile drive won't do anything. It's just the assumption that you'll shift it enough to break in the disk and pressure plate.
Yeah, I don't think you'll be disappointed on the # the car makes. I've seen lesser combos make more. An old AFR 165 combo with an Edebrock 5.0 intake and an Ed Curtis cam, that convinced me to go that route, ran 118mph @ around 3200 lbs. Which is roughly 340rwhp. That's not common for small AFRs on a 302, but I also made an actual 311rwhp on a dyno with my 302 at 5300 RPM - probably a little more after I finished a couple more bolt-ons. As long as your motor carries that kind of torque to 5600 RPM, then it will surpass your goal. I believe it will carry more torque higher in the powerband.
130? Daaaayum!
Yea, I agree on the engine. Roller cams require no break in, and I've heard from a few different engine builders that moly rings are supposed to seat within minutes of the first time you start the engine. It's really just the clutch that I want to make sure I break in properly and don't screw up. I once skipped the break in period for a freshly rebuilt T5, and I literally had an 80lb transmission-shaped maraca after the first 5 minutes of hard driving. I learned my lesson then to always break stuff in properly!
I hope you're right on the HP thing! I have a feeling it will do well... We'll see.
Just that I've been driving the wheels off the thing.
I need to upload some pics of the car, and I should also make a walk around video.My new SNELL SA2005 helmet came in the mail yesterday, so I should be taking the car to the track sooner or later, too.
Not yet. I think I may put a wideband A/F sensor and gauge in the car before I do that.
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
Little disappointing update for you guys-
Got the car out to the track last night. I hate to make excuses, but somewhere on the hour drive through rush hour traffic to the track, something happened with my clutch. I'm not sure if the cable stretched or what, but by the time I rolled into tech inspection, the clutch was engaging half an inch off the carpet. Not only was it giving me a hard time shifting between gears, but it was difficult to even get it to go into gear whatsoever. But hell, I was already at the track, so I decided to run it anyway.
Here is the rundown. Keep in mind, this is on 17" street tires and a street-oriented suspension. Launching the car is a joke.
Run 1:
Launched like a grandmother driving in a grocery store parking lot.
Grabbed 2nd OK, but completely whiffed 3rd. Didn't even get it to go into 3rd. Frustrated, I went straight to 4th and just finished it out. It's funny, even after completely skipping 3rd, I still ran a faster trap speed than my previous best with the stock heads.
2.206 60'
9.395 1/8
14.613 1/4 @ 98.5 mph
Run 2:
Launched a little harder, but not much, bogged a bit.
Completely trashed 2nd gear. Ground the hell out of it. Pushed the clutch back in, and yanked it hard to get the gear in. Frustrated and flustered, I missed my shift light and bounced off the stock limiter going from 2-3, but once I did finally shift, I did get it to go into 3rd on the first try.
2.117 60'
9.748 1/8
14.539 1/4 @ 104.31 mph < Starting to show some promise, haha.
Run 3:
Launched way too hard and spun. Didn't get a clean shift into 2nd OR 3rd. Hell, my hand completely came off the knob trying to jam it into 3rd.
2.266 60'
9.749 1/8
14.582 1/4 @ 103.67 mph
After missing 2nd AND 3rd on that last run, I knew it was time to quit and go home. That was just disheartening. The frustrating thing was, 2 of the three cars I was up against were WAY slower than mine, but I still got my ass handed to me. Bleh.
Anyway, I can say right now that once I get the clutch issue worked out, the next problem is going to be the factory rev limiter. The car is still pulling so hard at 6250, shifting before then is senseless. That just further justifies getting a tuner. Now if I can just get my wife on board with me spending more money.....
Got the car out to the track last night. I hate to make excuses, but somewhere on the hour drive through rush hour traffic to the track, something happened with my clutch. I'm not sure if the cable stretched or what, but by the time I rolled into tech inspection, the clutch was engaging half an inch off the carpet. Not only was it giving me a hard time shifting between gears, but it was difficult to even get it to go into gear whatsoever. But hell, I was already at the track, so I decided to run it anyway.
Here is the rundown. Keep in mind, this is on 17" street tires and a street-oriented suspension. Launching the car is a joke.
Run 1:
Launched like a grandmother driving in a grocery store parking lot.
Grabbed 2nd OK, but completely whiffed 3rd. Didn't even get it to go into 3rd. Frustrated, I went straight to 4th and just finished it out. It's funny, even after completely skipping 3rd, I still ran a faster trap speed than my previous best with the stock heads.
2.206 60'
9.395 1/8
14.613 1/4 @ 98.5 mph
Run 2:
Launched a little harder, but not much, bogged a bit.
Completely trashed 2nd gear. Ground the hell out of it. Pushed the clutch back in, and yanked it hard to get the gear in. Frustrated and flustered, I missed my shift light and bounced off the stock limiter going from 2-3, but once I did finally shift, I did get it to go into 3rd on the first try.
2.117 60'
9.748 1/8
14.539 1/4 @ 104.31 mph < Starting to show some promise, haha.
Run 3:
Launched way too hard and spun. Didn't get a clean shift into 2nd OR 3rd. Hell, my hand completely came off the knob trying to jam it into 3rd.
2.266 60'
9.749 1/8
14.582 1/4 @ 103.67 mph
After missing 2nd AND 3rd on that last run, I knew it was time to quit and go home. That was just disheartening. The frustrating thing was, 2 of the three cars I was up against were WAY slower than mine, but I still got my ass handed to me. Bleh.
Anyway, I can say right now that once I get the clutch issue worked out, the next problem is going to be the factory rev limiter. The car is still pulling so hard at 6250, shifting before then is senseless. That just further justifies getting a tuner. Now if I can just get my wife on board with me spending more money.....
On a lighter note, I do have some new pics of the car. Nothing special, I just took a couple shots at the end of my driveway. Please forgive the 25 year old paint.
Sucks to hear about the clutch. Removing the factory limiter isnt going to do much for you. The factory computer is too slow and starts breaking up at around 6400 rpms... You need either a PMS, crystal in the factory ECU with a rev-extender, or a standalone.
The MPH shows some promise, esp with missing gears. Should trap at least 105 or 106. Be careful with that t-5 and the clutch not engaging right
I have had nights at the track like that and they do suck. my clutch cable was too close to my headers & got melted. now It has to be replaced. I have the TWEECER RT for a tuner & like it a lot. there are cheaper one out there that do the same thing from what I have read. You might get lucky & snag one off ebay from someone that couldnt figgure it out and got rid of it. I have never heard that the factory EEC is to slow before. That is interesting. Not saying thats wrong but, worth looking into. I would never given that any thought.
Yea, I've heard that the computer starts to struggle at high RPM, but I thought it was closer to 7000?
Nope, i thought it was my MSD box not working right, but it was definitly the factory ECU. This is why i went with megasquirt. I tried to tell you earlier in the thread i think...
That mass air meter you bought is half the cost of the PnP megasquirt, which is an unnecessary expense with the megasquirt.
That mass air meter you bought is half the cost of the PnP megasquirt, which is an unnecessary expense with the megasquirt.
Had many bad track nights. First time with the blower it kept detonating at 800' and had to lift, ran like 13.9 @ 114MPH. Kept doing that all night, final run 12.6 at 116MPH lifting, bah. Next day the stock block was toast. Sometimes the track can be an evil place.
Stock cable and adustable clutch quadrant fixed my "Engage off the floor" issues too.
Nice project, hope to see real track times or dyno numbers from all your hard work.
Stock cable and adustable clutch quadrant fixed my "Engage off the floor" issues too.
Nice project, hope to see real track times or dyno numbers from all your hard work.
HotFox
15 Year Member
That's what happens when you baby the clutch for brake in. If you would have drove it hard right out of garage maybe you would have discovered this in the first 10 miles LOL. Hopefully you did not hurt the trans, by what you described sounds like you could have taken some life out of it.
Scott
Scott
I'm looking at firewall clutch cable adjusters. I really like the idea of not climbing under the car to adjust the clutch.
Yea, I know, that meter is salty. I'm just not ready to commit to a stand alone ECU right now, though it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Maybe later I can buy one and sell off the A9L and the meter and cover some of the expense of the stand alone.
Nope, i thought it was my MSD box not working right, but it was definitly the factory ECU. This is why i went with megasquirt. I tried to tell you earlier in the thread i think...
That mass air meter you bought is half the cost of the PnP megasquirt, which is an unnecessary expense with the megasquirt.
Yea, I know, that meter is salty. I'm just not ready to commit to a stand alone ECU right now, though it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Maybe later I can buy one and sell off the A9L and the meter and cover some of the expense of the stand alone.
Meh, the trans will be OK. The second gear grind on my 2nd run was probably the worst thing that happened. The rest of the time, it just wouldn't shift.
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