NikwoaC's "Commitment Issues" Engine Build

Yea, I know, that meter is salty. I'm just not ready to commit to a stand alone ECU right now, though it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Maybe later I can buy one and sell off the A9L and the meter and cover some of the expense of the stand alone.

The standalone is a little intimidating at first, but its actually way easier than you would think and the adjustment on it is endless. If i could go back, it would have been one of the first things i did to the car.

Check out Pro-motion's firewally adjuster, its what i have on my car and i really like it.

ProMotion Powertrain FORD/GM Performance Manual Drivetrain Specialist FL

Dont let them talk you into the adjustable cable tho, i have that on my car and it stretched just like everything else... It has lasted a little longer tho
 
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The standalone is a little intimidating at first, but its actually way easier than you would think and the adjustment on it is endless. If i could go back, it would have been one of the first things i did to the car.

Check out Pro-motion's firewally adjuster, its what i have on my car and i really like it.

ProMotion Powertrain FORD/GM Performance Manual Drivetrain Specialist FL

Dont let them talk you into the adjustable cable tho, i have that on my car and it stretched just like everything else... It has lasted a little longer tho

I've actually got some credit with 5.0 Resto just sitting there, waiting to be spent on something. I see that they sell UPR firewall adjusters for ~$40. Any opinions on that?

yeah you could tell it was picking up some mph after you got it into a gear lol. I think It should go at least 108mph with a decent tire alone.

You got the capability to go a mid 12's easy man! Get that whore tuned and get you some slicks.

I know it man! That thing is going to go fast once I get a handle on things... And learn to drive. It was so frustrating, because it seemed like I'd start to gain on the other car, miss a gear, fumble around, loose ground, finally get it into gear, gain on the other car again, miss a gear, fumble, 4th gear and done. Except that last GTO that ran 11s. I had nothing on him, haha.

I've got a set of junk 16" wheels in my garage that I was contemplating tossing a set of sticky tires on for the track, but I think I'd rather hold out and get a set of lightweight 15" wheels for all 4 corners. Those Mach 1 wheels look cool, but I think they were 26 or 27 lbs a piece. They're retarded.

Thanks for coming out to the track man. Get that Mitsu running!
 
I've actually got some credit with 5.0 Resto just sitting there, waiting to be spent on something. I see that they sell UPR firewall adjusters for ~$40. Any opinions on that?

I've got a set of junk 16" wheels in my garage that I was contemplating tossing a set of sticky tires on for the track, but I think I'd rather hold out and get a set of lightweight 15" wheels for all 4 corners. Those Mach 1 wheels look cool, but I think they were 26 or 27 lbs a piece. They're retarded.

I havent looked at the UPR one. The reason i chose the Pro motion one tho is that it goes thru the firewall on the interior side, then a plate goes on that, and you thread a knurled collar on to keep it in place. So it basically sandwiches the firewall and theres no chance of it deflecting like the ones that just use one screw to mount to the firewall.

I'd say for now, look for a set of used slicks or drag radials for the 16's, thats gonna help alot. Try for slicks tho, drag radials are tough with a stick.
 
Nope, i thought it was my MSD box not working right, but it was definitly the factory ECU. This is why i went with megasquirt. I tried to tell you earlier in the thread i think... :D

That mass air meter you bought is half the cost of the PnP megasquirt, which is an unnecessary expense with the megasquirt.

I have one of those assembled kits, just lying around,.....brand new,....never used;)
 
I've actually got some credit with 5.0 Resto just sitting there, waiting to be spent on something. I see that they sell UPR firewall adjusters for ~$40. Any opinions on that?



I know it man! That thing is going to go fast once I get a handle on things... And learn to drive. It was so frustrating, because it seemed like I'd start to gain on the other car, miss a gear, fumble around, loose ground, finally get it into gear, gain on the other car again, miss a gear, fumble, 4th gear and done. Except that last GTO that ran 11s. I had nothing on him, haha.

I've got a set of junk 16" wheels in my garage that I was contemplating tossing a set of sticky tires on for the track, but I think I'd rather hold out and get a set of lightweight 15" wheels for all 4 corners. Those Mach 1 wheels look cool, but I think they were 26 or 27 lbs a piece. They're retarded.

Thanks for coming out to the track man. Get that Mitsu running!

anytime dude! if your gonna get a fwa, get the steeda or the promotion, and throw that pos adjustable cable in the trash.
 
I agree that adjustable cables are junk. Mine was stiff as hell, even when routed the same as the stock cable. AND, the damn think snapped after only putting 10,000 miles on the car with it. Left me stranded until I stuck the stock cable back on. I still run it now, and its from 1995.
 
So, if I get a non-adjustable stock replacement cable, does it need to be an OEM Ford cable, or can it be just whatever brand cable Auto Zone sells?

Auto Zone cable linky.

The only reason I'd want to go through Auto Zone is because I have one of their rewards cards and I use it all the damn time. Make 5 purchases of $20 and they just give you $20 store credit on the 6th purchase. It's a sweet deal.

If not, I can try calling one of the local Ford dealers and talk to their parts department.
 
You need the ford one, and ford will probably want big bucks for it. Maximum Motorsports sells them, for a decent price, they actually have a whole kit. Thats where i got mine
 
WOW. I just called the local Ford dealer and they want $205 for one. :jaw:

At some point, someone has to just admit to stealing money from customers. Charging 200+ for a freaking cable is stealership mentality at its best.

Anyway, he gave me the part number. E4ZZ7K553A

LRS sells what they are calling an "OEM Ford Cable" for $40. The LRS part number is LRS-7553DR. Not sure if the 7553 shows any significance there. Thoughts? Like I said, I have credit with LRS that I'd like to use up.

LRS Cable
 
I dunno, that looks right, you want the 94-95 one i think. It is longer so it loops it way out and keeps it away from the headers. What quadrant are you running?

About ford, it is rediculous. Im trying to find a lower air deflector off a 83-87 ranger and they want like 170 bucks for it... I found one online for 50, but its 50 to ship it... so im searching local yards now.
 
I hear ya, I dont know if that ones junk, just have heard bad things about the 3 hook ones in general. I had some crappy mustangs unlimited quadrant in mine, and when i went to the pro-motion, i liked the feel and travel of the pedal alot better.

Only thing was when i ordered the pro motion stuff, they talked me into an adjustable 94/95 cable and its stretching, so i have to adjust it till it fails. When i bought it i just wanted to order everything at once, but my last order to MM, i got thier OEM cable.
 
Alright, I just got off the horn with LRS. I went with the UPR firewall adjuster and an OEM STYLE cable. Apparently, the OEM Ford cables are discontinued, but they offer a Dorman replacement that uses the same design as the Ford unit, which is what I bought. The guy I talked to has an 89 with the same clutch as mine (Ram HDX) and runs this Doorman cable, and according to him, the clutch feel is "awesome".

So, I guess we'll see.