Head Swap Build Thread: And other Improvements

#341
I ran into a huge problem when putting the lower intake on. Once I had it set on the RVT I put a few bolts in just to make sure it was all lined up but some of them were going in really hard, harder then they should have been. I backed off on them for fear of stripping any of the bolt holes in the heads. When trying to install it I put the first bolt in and started on the second one but it was just going in way to tight w/ that much thread left. I decided it was best to take the intake off and check all the bolt holes. The #12 bolt hole in the torque sequence and the one in the very back on the drivers side will not allow a bolt to thread in. They go in for a few threads and then they just stop. I have a bad feeling that these two bolt holes got stripped just from test fitting the bolts before hand.


So now I feel as though I am really fing screwed, so close to getting it all put back together and then run into this issue. the #12 bolt hole will take a good 3-4 turns before it stops cold, the other one not as many. Would it work if I got a much shorter bolt with just enough threads to grab the good ones and use washers to make any adjustments?

Or would it be better to tap those holes out and put in the next size bolt?
 

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#342
Sounds like your trying to put a metric bolt in to a American thread (or vice versa). Could that be it? Would be nice if it were that simple. Could always Chase the threads with a tap to clean up the threads. We did that on most of our parts. We didn't on the valve cover threads and now have a leakyon the drivers side. They went in so tight that we were worried there would be aluminum thread damage. I'm getting ready to go Chase the threads.
 
#343
I would try a tap of the same size to clean the threads out first before jumping to the next size bolt.

If I ever pull my upper/lower intake off I will be looking to convert to some kind of stud setup. I had to tap my lower (were upper mounts) as 2 bolts one at the very front and one at the very back were FUBAR.

Also might want to try some anti-seize on the bolt/tap when you try to clean it out to catch any gunk.
 
#346
I'm also putting an intake stud kit on it. I'm so done with intake bolts. It's how my last heads ended up with an oil leak and now its happening all over again even though it's not as bad as before. Any recommendations for a good tap kit, cheaper being better
 
#347
Just buy the tap you need for now. Go to Ace, and get an Irwin tap; it's made in Amnerica. Don't waste your time buying a Chinese tap kit. It will likely lead to having a tap broken off in the head, and then you're really screwed.

Kurt
 
#348
We dont seem to have very many ACE stores around here anymore. We mostly have Aubuchon hardware. I went to NAPA and bought the correct size tap and re threaded the two holes and the bolt goes in just fine now. I ran the bolt through the rest of the holes just to be sure and the rest are ok. What I thought was going to be a huge major issue turned into a $2.00 fix at the local auto parts store.

I'll be buying an ARP intake stud kit from summit and some new gaskets b/c I ripped one of my by accident when taking off the lower yesterday b/c of being pissed from stripping out the hole. I'm undecided on which gaskets to get out of these two. Keep in mind that my ports measure 1 3/8 across and 2 1/8th (just over 1/8th) in height.


Fel pro 1250- 2" X 1.2"

Fel-Pro Q1250 - Fel-Pro Performance Intake Manifold Gasket Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Felpro 1262 - 2.1" X 1.280
Fel-Pro Q1262 - Fel-Pro Performance Intake Manifold Gasket Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com


And here is a few pics of how it all looks now

005-42.jpg




and a quick mock up I did yesterday. It looks like dust on the upper but it is condensation from it being down in the basement and then being taken out side where it was much warmer.


006-28.jpg


007-23.jpg


008-19.jpg
 
#349
I'm almost positive you're going to need a 1262. My heads don't have that much port work, and I have to use a 1262 and trim it a little on the ports to make it fit. You have to modify the 1262s a little with a pair of dykes. Normally you have to cut out a little 90 degree section that blocks the water port. You usually have to cut the tabs off that hook to the head gasket to get it aligned right. You'll probably have to do a little trimming to clear around the intake ports. The 1262 kit also doesn't come with rubber pieces for the valley, only sucky cork ones. You will have to get another stock gasket set from the autoparts store to get the orginal rubber pieces. What are you using on the exhaust, a Felpro 1415? You can get the Felpro 1250 or 1262 from Advance if you don't want to wait for Summit. Not sure if you have Advance up there.

Kurt
 
#351
Don't you need to use 1262's, the other ones (which we used) are for 302 based blocks. Also I didn't click the link but they make them in steel wire which is stronger. We cut out the water jackets and tore part of the gaskets. We had to use to use gasket maker to repair. Also instead of cork for the back and front of the block they have hightened rubber premade gaskets. You lay them on. They can be rused over and over again. Sure beats using a ton of RTV. Again you may know this but we just did ours and had a 5 year old Felpro kit laying around.
 
#353
Did the 1262R come with the rubber gaskets for the front/back b/c it does not show any in the link.

Also I noticed today that will my roller rockers the ones that were not pressing down on the springs could be moved around a little bit from side to side and a little bit up and down. Is this normal or are they not adjusted right?
 
#357
Alright I'll pick up another gasket set, the cheapest one I can find that has the rubber gaskets. Part of this whole thing was to stop the oil leak from my intake ( then discovering I needed much better heads) so I want to do everything I can to prevent it.
 
#358
well not to much progress made since the snag up. Did manage to scrape off the remaining RVT on the lower intake and the heads for when I try this again. Also sanded down the areas on the alt bracket as told to do so a few pages ago. Next week I'll be ordering the ARP intake stud kit, lower and upper gaskets for the intake and maybe a new power steering pump depending on how much extra is in the pay check. By next weekend or early the week after I'll have the intake on and get all the connections made again. I can install the alt and alt bracket soon but the power steering pump will wait until I get the new pump and the new pulley I want for it.
 
#359
Well today I did set the engine back to TDC from what I found about how to do it online. I had a friend place their finger in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole until pressure or air could be felt the rotated the engine a little
Further until it was at the 0 mark on the timing pointer. Correct?
 
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