68 Mustang over-heating after upgrades

The damper hasn't slipped? That's an awful lot of advance to me, especially with that much compression. I can believe it if the cam is really aggressive, but I think most pump gas street SBFs shouldn't need that much.


Hi,
You make a good point. But, no, my damper is fine.
As I stated a couple posts later, my dynamic CR is such (based on actual cam events), that I get no hint of pinging with these settings. It all depends what your engine "likes". If it likes all of your settings, then, you have a successful great performer.
Happy Motoring!
 
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1.) You make a good point. But, no, my damper is fine.

2.) As I stated a couple posts later, my dynamic CR is such (based on actual cam events), that I get no hint of pinging with these settings. It all depends what your engine "likes". If it likes all of your settings, then, you have a successful great performer.
Happy Motoring!

1.) That's exactly why I mentioned the cam. ;)

2.) That's true. My base advance is only 10° because my engine is just 9:1 and the cam is a conservative profile with minimal overlap. I got slight pinging with 12° at ~40%+ throttle and 87 gas. I should probably cut the total advance down a few degrees and bump the initial now that I think about it...
 
1.) That's exactly why I mentioned the cam. ;)

2.) That's true. My base advance is only 10° because my engine is just 9:1 and the cam is a conservative profile with minimal overlap. I got slight pinging with 12° at ~40%+ throttle and 87 gas. I should probably cut the total advance down a few degrees and bump the initial now that I think about it...

Yes, my cam is fairly aggressive with gross lift of 570/562; dur @ .050 is 220.6/234.24. My engine peaks at 5900, but, is making 392 RWHP at that point. My RWTQ is 400 at 4400. I run the highest octane I can find.
It's a runner!
 
let's get back on the subjet. as stated above i am running rich so what now?

Good Point!,
What carb and what size are you running?
I would start by making sure the float level setting is correct.
Next, rent or purchase an engine vac gauge and adjust your carb idle mix with it. If you don't know how to adjust your carb using a gauge, there are plenty of primers on the WEB.
Check and adjust as needed, you initial timing.
Report back.
 
I would try setting the initial timing at 10 degrees and then work on the jetting, then go back and tweak the timing some more and if necessary play with the rods and jets again. If your timing is way off it will effect the mixture so get that out of the way first. On the running hot, as I mentioned before, on a 100 + degree day in stop and go traffic with the A/C on running 200 to 210 is not over heating. Modern engines don't even turn the fans on till it gets to 210. If it's not pinging, boiling over, coughing, it's not over heating and that usually doesn't occur till you hit 250 to 270.
 
Trying to tune the carb by reading the plugs on a street motor running unleaded that likely spent a couple minutes idling in the garage when it was brought in is sketchy at best. If it's not pinging and isn't hard to start, and it idles, it's tough to get it to optimum tune without a dyno or an A/F meter. I say as long as it pulls cleanly without any stumbling, it's close enough.
 
Trying to tune the carb by reading the plugs on a street motor running unleaded that likely spent a couple minutes idling in the garage when it was brought in is sketchy at best. If it's not pinging and isn't hard to start, and it idles, it's tough to get it to optimum tune without a dyno or an A/F meter. I say as long as it pulls cleanly without any stumbling, it's close enough.

^^ this

there is NO way that you're going to get the "good" tune other than playing around with it until it performs well. Even with a dyno and A/F its a real PITA