Fastest 5.0 (pushrod) Kenne Bell Mustang?

awsome looking engine bay...looks hard to work on, like valve cover access...

No different than any other Kenne Bell 5.0, The drivers side V/C has the supercharger sitting over the top of it. Takes about 1/2 hr to access which is no big deal if you are used to it. Passenger side V/C is actually easier to remove than on a stock 5.0 as the throttle body is now behind the supercharger, instead of over the V/C. And really, how often do you remove V/C anyway? On any 5.0? Once every year, every other year? We ran this engine for 4 years with only spark plug and oil changes 2 times a year, so really V/C accessibility is a moot point.
 
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This is what I like someone who wants to make a PR KB go fast. I'm gonna be tapping at your door soon. Here is a link to my A2A on a Dart based 363 I made 550whp and 685TQ last fall no track times yet, but they will be coming next summer. My winter projects include 2o5cnc Tw heads new Freezy cam larger Sheet metal race intercooler and 3.5 inch pipping and to top it all off I'm refabing my intakes for a 2.8L H series :)
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Well, the Trick Flow R lower manifold is taller that the stock or GT-40 lower, so going to a stock type lower intake would shave about 2 inches off of the height. Also the custom outlet manifold from the supercharger could be trimmed down about 1/2" without to much disruption in airflow. The upper manifold that holds the intercooler core could also be trimmed or shortened a bit. Part of the reason for the tall cowl hood is that the throttle body is positioned facing up and when a air filter is installed for street driving, you end up with a tall hood. If you did not mind a longer path for the airflow, the throttle body could be relocated so that the overall height is lower. We were interested in MAXIMUM airflow. Thus this is how it ended up. The original design was under a Cervini hood that was much lower. But we found that the shorter the inlet path to the rear of the supercharger, the more boost and power we made, and since the car was being driven less and less on the street and more and more on the track the big cowl hood was not an issue. The current design is the 4th or 5th version and the one that promotes the most power. Being all custom, and having to farm out the aluminum welding, it has not been cheap, but it is worth it. Outside of the welding, all of the fab work and design work is ours. The hrs it took to map all of this out is crazy. Plus throw in dyno time, track time ect and it is no wonder it took 4 years to get to where we are. NOBODY sells this stuff. Hell, that is what makes it cool, and that is part of the reason we did not go turbo or ProCharger, we wanted it to be different, and half of the fun is in the engineering exercise. We are now starting on a similar set up for my car, with a few differences thrown in, namely, I want a cleaner looking install.

I am really impressed with your work and dedication here, this is a very unique setup and I give you guys credit for that. I would love to know what power numbers the car put down on the dyno and at what speeds you are spinning the 2.2L. I personally have run a 7.5 inch crank and 2.1 inch blower pulley on the street and dyno. Great job and I look forward to more on your car.
 
Ok Tinman4708 on the corral with an 94 Cobra 347 with 2.2L KB and meth injection 3600lb car ran a best of 9.54 at 141.17 with an auto trans. Check out his video here.
 
Ok Tinman4708 on the corral with an 94 Cobra 347 with 2.2L KB and meth injection 3600lb car ran a best of 9.54 at 141.17 with an auto trans. Check out his video here.



AWESOME! Gives us a target to beat :). What rear tire is on that car? We are doing the 9.61 on only a true 8.5" slick as the rules we run under dictate. I look forward to going as quick as 9.4's or less come spring time. Took off the cylinder heads and camshaft last weekend in preparation to a camshaft change and cylinder head refresh to compliment the camshaft.
 
I am really impressed with your work and dedication here, this is a very unique setup and I give you guys credit for that. I would love to know what power numbers the car put down on the dyno and at what speeds you are spinning the 2.2L. I personally have run a 7.5 inch crank and 2.1 inch blower pulley on the street and dyno. Great job and I look forward to more on your car.


I think the chassis dyno numbers were kinda weak, only 625 whp or so, but we were on the dyno to do some tuning of AFR # and not to worried about HP #'s. If you do the math, for a 3350 lb car to do 143 + mph you are actually pushing closer to over 750 WHP. The race track is the ultimate dyno as the chassis dyno cannot reproduce actual running conditions, wind resistance ect. We are currently running about 18.5 to 19 psi at the intake manifold, about 21 psi before intercooler. And the supercharger is actually a 2.8 LC version so it gives us a few more psi to play with. Thanks for the kind words, your combo is a whole lot better looking and a cleaner install. Much of what we did was about HP first and we will worry about good looks later. Either way it is nice to see a PR Kenne Bell being used. So many people take the easy way out with a turbo or ProCharger ect. It aint popular to use a Kenne Bell to go fast, or cheap, but it is way cool in my book.
 
I think the chassis dyno numbers were kinda weak, only 625 whp or so, but we were on the dyno to do some tuning of AFR # and not to worried about HP #'s. If you do the math, for a 3350 lb car to do 143 + mph you are actually pushing closer to over 750 WHP. The race track is the ultimate dyno as the chassis dyno cannot reproduce actual running conditions, wind resistance ect. We are currently running about 18.5 to 19 psi at the intake manifold, about 21 psi before intercooler. And the supercharger is actually a 2.8 LC version so it gives us a few more psi to play with. Thanks for the kind words, your combo is a whole lot better looking and a cleaner install. Much of what we did was about HP first and we will worry about good looks later. Either way it is nice to see a PR Kenne Bell being used. So many people take the easy way out with a turbo or ProCharger ect. It aint popular to use a Kenne Bell to go fast, or cheap, but it is way cool in my book.

Still great numbers on the dyno and no doubt with an auto getting accurate dyno results is hard. I to ran the HP calc and came up with your number RWHP. The pictures of the motor you posted had what looked like a older 2.2L KB, since then you pit in the LC 2.8L. I would love for you to post up more pics of your setup with the LC 2.8L. You guys are real poineers here and I respect and admire your attention to this project. As you can see I to love to think out of the box. I would love to pick you brain on your project great job. What is your pulley combo with the 2.8L crank and snout to get the 21psi before IC.
 
Still great numbers on the dyno and no doubt with an auto getting accurate dyno results is hard. I to ran the HP calc and came up with your number RWHP. The pictures of the motor you posted had what looked like a older 2.2L KB, since then you pit in the LC 2.8L. I would love for you to post up more pics of your setup with the LC 2.8L. You guys are real poineers here and I respect and admire your attention to this project. As you can see I to love to think out of the box. I would love to pick you brain on your project great job. What is your pulley combo with the 2.8L crank and snout to get the 21psi before IC.

Old picture was posted. Will have to get back to you on what crank and blower pulley were used. Also in the old picture, the intercooler tank is in the engine compartment, and it now resides in the trunk. The supercharger snout is off of the 2.2L combo as Kenne Bell does not make one for the 2.8L LC for a 5.0 PR application. To fit the 5.0 PR engine the supercharger was flipped over because otherwise the blower drive is offset to the wrong side. Thinking back, it was actually the front blower case that was flipped, and not the supercharger itself. This required tapping the front case for the fill plug/dipstick to be on the new "topside". I believe in the next month the engine will be going back together and I will take and post updated pictures at that time. We have not taken very many pictures at all as we did not think about doing a "progress" thread. So pictures are few and far between. I will be sure to takes lots of pictures when we put it all back together, plus I now have a good camera for doing so. We would LOVE to get a 1.29 60 foot like that 94 Cobra, but is Very hard to get traction with only a 8.5 wide tire. Our best 60 foot to date is 1.47. We may come springtime with the new combo put a 28X10.5 tire on just to see how fast this bad boy is. :)
 
Any issue in mounting the old style 2.2L drive with the newer KB front cover, is it the same bolt pattern? Also did you use the same pulley bolt? I think the 5.0 units used the smaller 10mm bolt. Some have said they will break with a larger type blower like the 2.8L since the rotors are heavier any problems you guys have had.
 
Any issue in mounting the old style 2.2L drive with the newer KB front cover, is it the same bolt pattern? Also did you use the same pulley bolt? I think the 5.0 units used the smaller 10mm bolt. Some have said they will break with a larger type blower like the 2.8L since the rotors are heavier any problems you guys have had.


Same bolt pattern for the snout on both cases. We actually replace the blower pulley bolt after about 20 passes. We started doing this after the first blower pulley bolt broke, and since replacing on a regular basis we have not had another failure. We also have to replace the blower belt every 20 passes or so. The whole drive system is 10 rib at this time and have had good success with it. Also had to put a larger alternator pulley on as we fried an alternator by spinning it to fast. These are the things you learn when you take "street" parts and go racing! I would not have it any other way tho. Nothing like learning by doing.
 
Do you mind me asking questions here or should I PM or email you further question. Are you buying your snout bolts from KB or do you source them elsewhere? A thought I had was to match or have ARP make a pulley bolt, they make the strongest bolts out there.
 
Ask anything you like. The blower bolts we get from a Bolt supply warehouse, just ask for a 10.9 grade 10mm by whatever length bolt you need. If they do not have it they can order it. We usually order or buy 10 at a time. Down in the Portland Oregon area, we get them from Vancouver Bolt and Supply. Up here in the Seattle area, we get them from Tacoma Screw. I am sure there is a similar type nut/bolt/fitting warehouse in your area that carries this stuff.
 
pretty impressive for a kenne bell

I think if you calculate what it takes HP wise to drive that supercharger at 21 psi it comes out to about 100-125 HP just to spin the supercharger. (no wonder people like turbo's) Add in the 750 RWHP and then calculate for drivetrain losses through the automatic trans ect, we are pushing over 1,000 HP at the crank out of a 331 cid PR small block. Not to shabby in my book.
 
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Do you buy chance know the thread pitch? I see a 1.5 and a 1.25 and if it's fine or coarse thread.

If memory serves it is 10mmX1.5 X whatever length. It is best to take in a sample bolt for them to match up. I can take a bolt off of my supercharger tomorrow after work and let you know then. The thing with metric is there is more than just fine or course threads. I think in 10mm there are 3 or 4 choices of thread pitch. 1.0, 1.25, 1.5 and possibly 1.75.
 
Thanks my friend for all your help.
If memory serves it is 10mmX1.5 X whatever length. It is best to take in a sample bolt for them to match up. I can take a bolt off of my supercharger tomorrow after work and let you know then. The thing with metric is there is more than just fine or course threads. I think in 10mm there are 3 or 4 choices of thread pitch. 1.0, 1.25, 1.5 and possibly 1.75.[/quote