I'm looking to replace my a/c compressor. Looking at prices online, certain compressors note whether it is a replacement for a factory installed compressor or a dealer installed compressor. How can I tell the manner in which mine was installed?
A/c Compressor, Factory Or Dealer Installed?
- Thread starter Shawneebear93
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Thanks. I've put 35k on the car over 4 years since it broke ... shouldn't it have seized up already?
I doubt that it has seized, unless you have had lines removed, or missing. The compressor has its own oil charge, and internals are sealed from outside air/moisture. To check if it is seized or not, simply grab the drive hub (the part that sticks out in front of the belt pulley) and try to turn it with you hand (with the engine off!!!) It should be a little tight, but should turn freely. More than likely you have a low charge due to a refrigerant leak in one of the line seals, very common with cars this old, and the system has a low pressure cutoff switch to protect the system/compressor from pulling a vacuum and possibly pulling in moisture/non-condensibles into the system that would kill your compressor.
My mechanic told me the compressor was shot and needed to be replaced. I was told it could seize "at any time" and leave me stranded?
jcgafford
10 Year Member
^+1
The pulley that the belt runs on is does not turn the compressor until the compressor clutch engages. When power is not going to the compressor clutch, it is nothing more than an idler pulley.
The pulley that the belt runs on is does not turn the compressor until the compressor clutch engages. When power is not going to the compressor clutch, it is nothing more than an idler pulley.
If you are really worried about your compressor engaging, you can disconnect the low pressure switch very easily, and that will keep any power going down to the compressor clutch. If you look at your firewall, on the left side of the engine (looking from front of car) there is a black canister that has your refrigerant lines going to it, and on top there is a two wire plug. Disconnect the plug, and you won't have to worry about your compressor engaging, as it will in defrost mode also.
Here is a picture to give you a better idea of what I am talking about, I circled it in red, and just unplug the connector and you will be fine. Hope it helps!
I can take a real picture tomorrow for you if you would like.
I can take a real picture tomorrow for you if you would like.
No I know exactly what you're talking about. I came across that a few months ago and it was unplugged already so I plugged it back in haha. I'll unplug it. I was just really worried about it seizing. Will I still be able to use the vent/defroster with this unplugged and it just won't work as well? Winter months are coming, I know I'll need my defroster at some point.
Yuppers, with that unplugged you can put your control switch in any position and your A/C just wont work. You can use your defrost and vent, if you put it in normal A/C mode, it will be the same as having it on vent. In defrost mode, it will work just like a car without factory A/C. I have the same issue, as my A/C doesn't work, but when your windshield starts fogging up, just blow a little warm air on it and it will generally clear it up pretty well. The reason that the A/C runs with the defrost is that not only does the A/C cool the air, but it also removes moisture that will clear condensation a lot more efficiently. Also, if your compressor is seized, with that unplugged you have nothing to worry about. I know this too well because out of the seven cars I've had over the years, only one of them had working A/C!
1984 mustang gt turbo
New Member
I know it is old thread but something to add to the compressor part is even though not using the compressor the bearings in the pulley can go out over time then will shread drive belt. Not trying to one up anyone just something easlily over looked.
Similar threads
