Average going price for stock GT40 (3 bar) heads?

[Exile]

I am debating on picking up a set of stock GT40 (3 bar) heads from a guy locally to go with my GT40 intake, but first I was wondering what the average going price for these GT40 (3 bar) heads are?

I already know I will need to upgrade the springs, and please no "save your money for aluminum heads" post.

 

[jcgafford]

are they just pulled from an explorer or did they have work done to them already?

 

[Exile]

are they just pulled from an explorer or did they have work done to them already?

They are completely stock, but in good working condition.

 

[jcgafford]

salvage yard quoted me 100 when i was considering it, but i had to pull them. quick search around here ranges from 200-500, 500 have been totally done.

 

[Exile]

I know its a must to upgrade the valve springs on GT40 heads, especially if your running an aftermarket cam, but is necessary to upgrade the roller rockers as well? Or will the stock rockers be ok?

Ill be running a Trick Flow Stage One cam...

 

[srtthis]

i paid 50 for mine already pulled... crack headed needed money or something. i drove 2 hours to get them!

 

[ratio411]

I know its a must to upgrade the valve springs on GT40 heads, especially if your running an aftermarket cam, but is necessary to upgrade the roller rockers as well? Or will the stock rockers be ok?

Ill be running a Trick Flow Stage One cam...

With a stock cam, you can run stamped rockers, but with an aftermarket cam, I don't know for sure.
I do know that I wouldn't run stamped steel rockers with anything but stock myself, but that's just me.

 

[Exile]

When having the new springs set, and valve job done, is there a need to have the heads milled/decked?

Or can I just have new springs installed, valve job done, put them on my car, and be good to go?

 

[RangerJoe]

When having the new springs set, and valve job done, is there a need to have the heads milled/decked?

Or can I just have new springs installed, valve job done, put them on my car, and be good to go?

If you are already having a valve job done, just let the machine shop check the straightness of the head. They will let you know if you need it.

Joe

 

[AK74]

I have seen ready to roll aluminum gt 40 heads on ebay for $550 shipped. If you get the iron heads and then springs,machine shop fees etc it will add up quick.

 

[ratio411]

I have seen ready to roll aluminum gt 40 heads on ebay for $550 shipped. If you get the iron heads and then springs,machine shop fees etc it will add up quick.

Springs and seals shouldn't be over 100 bux, then the valve job is something like 150-ish around my town, but if you R&R the springs, they take almost half off because that is so time consuming.

I am not saying you are wrong, but there is something that worries me about buying used aluminum heads on ebay. At least with a local purchase you can examine the heads before buying them, and know where to find the seller if he obviously did something to screw you.

Also, just because a seller says they need nothing to run, that wouldn't convice me not to do a valve job on new to me aluminum heads. Nor does it mean that the springs aren't tired.

 

[JordanB21]

you don't 'need' springs if they're gt40. Gt40p needed springs. But you should upgrade them sooner or later.
I wouldn't pay over 300 for a set of gt40 heads that weren't worked on at all. From a seller they should go for 200 to 350 untouched. Anymore and they're crazy.

With valve job and rework and porting 600 or so max.

yards all vary, if you find them at a yard, it'll be less than 200.

 

[billison]

I personally would'nt pay more than 200 if they were just pulled... maybe 300 if they had been professionally check and are ready to bolt on.. but they go for like 450 on ebay with new everything.

 

[mikestang63]

I would never consider buying any used moving parts- heads, engine, rear, transmission, blowers, without being able to physically inspect them first. There are simply to many scammers out there. Someone else's definition of "ready to go" is too open to interpretation. I've read too many horror stories of guys buying heads and motors that were supposed to be worked on or have upgraded internals, only to find out they were either lied to.

 

[ReefBlueHatch]

I bought my Ps for $100 pulled but they went straight to the machine shop. Comp springs, locks, retainers, seals, guides, valve job, magna-fluxed, and the heads bead blasted and then milled for straightness cost me $500. You all can think I'm crazy, but my whole top-end setup was still cheaper than TFS 170 heads alone. I have too many other hobbies that take my money, LOL.

 

[JordanB21]

I bought my Ps for $100 pulled but they went straight to the machine shop. Comp springs, locks, retainers, seals, guides, valve job, magna-fluxed, and the heads bead blasted and then milled for straightness cost me $500. You all can think I'm crazy, but my whole top-end setup was still cheaper than TFS 170 heads alone. I have too many other hobbies that take my money, LOL.

Have any dyno numbers or seat of the pants dyno numbers on that set up? If it flows close to a pair of tfs then Id say its a good deal

 

[stykthyn]

I run the same combo reefbluehatch does. I pulled the entire explorer engine at a u pull it for 175. Had the heads re-done and ready to go for another 300. I sold the gt40 intake in favor of an edelbrock performer. The combo was easily in the 260-75 range. I traded out the eddy for a ported explorer unit I bought off a member here due to some problems I was having with it and seat of the pants feel is exactly the same. Should have stuck with exploder unit in the first place.

 

[Mustang5L5]

$200 or so


So many sets floating around that you shouldn't have any trouble finding some.

 

[ReefBlueHatch]

Have any dyno numbers or seat of the pants dyno numbers on that set up? If it flows close to a pair of tfs then Id say its a good deal

No dyno numbers and unfortunately my car was torn apart for eight months for re-doing the engine bay and a bunch of other stuff last winter - so no "seat in the pants" because I didn't drive it for so long.

But I do have 1/4 mile times. I am by no means a drag racer. Before the swap the best my car ran was 14.4 at 94 MPH. Since the swap I only had a chance to get four runs in - the best was 13.9 at 101 MPH. Keep in mind all the runs were done on street tires with no Trac-Loc. I've since rebuild it with carbon fiber disc clutches. My car also has MM SFC's, MM XD RLCA's, and Strange adjustable shocks/struts.

 

[ReefBlueHatch]

I run the same combo reefbluehatch does. I pulled the entire explorer engine at a u pull it for 175. Had the heads re-done and ready to go for another 300. I sold the gt40 intake in favor of an edelbrock performer. The combo was easily in the 260-75 range. I traded out the eddy for a ported explorer unit I bought off a member here due to some problems I was having with it and seat of the pants feel is exactly the same. Should have stuck with exploder unit in the first place.

My Explorer lower is ported and the upper is opened to 70mm. However I'm still running a stock T/B. In the future I would also like to upgrade to roller rockers and a e-fan just to squeeze the most out of this combo.