Fastest 5.0 (pushrod) Kenne Bell Mustang?
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wp331
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We been busy! Vernon is building his car. So far we have the cage in and certed and the rear suspension welded up. I am doing some additional wt reduction and better rear wheels, plus had the AOD and converter upgraded. We have some testing to do when the weather permits... we never really got the traction control on the new fast on my car sorted out. We are running in the WCSA 8.5 outlaw class here in WA/OR and the first race is in april!
wp331
Member
Hi Fella's, glad to hear you guys are still at it with the KB you are the undisputed champs for sure. I would love to see any video or pics you have on your cars. I've been at it car is up on stands for the winter awaiting new clutch, Stinger PIMP standalone ECU based of Megasquirts and a dual bypass system for the A2A.
The clutch is a twin disc design from a small clutch builder in Mich Clutch Dynamics and he is rolling out and I'm testing his new Twin Disc clutch. Has the same pressure plate load as the Mcloed RXT light pedal feel and tons of grip from the ceramic pucks should hold 1000 plus HP.
Also been working at redesigning my A2A bypass system. Firstly I had it routed hot side and know as you can see It routed from the cool side after it goes through the intercooler. I think also the KB 2.8L moves so much air the little 1.5" OD bypass cannot do it alone so I'm adding a twin. I think this will keep it cooler on the street and make for a safer setup all around. I will block off the other opening that was used originally.
Also picked up a TIG mechine Everlast PowerTIG185 and have been teaching myself this winter to weld Aluminum. So far I'm very happy with the mechine and learning to lay down a good weld bead and join material is a challenge but Im geeting it. I have always wanted to learn to TIG weld so I could do all of my own fabrication work. I should be building another A2A setup for a Corral member here soon and will be doing the welding as well as the modification to my own setup.
The clutch is a twin disc design from a small clutch builder in Mich Clutch Dynamics and he is rolling out and I'm testing his new Twin Disc clutch. Has the same pressure plate load as the Mcloed RXT light pedal feel and tons of grip from the ceramic pucks should hold 1000 plus HP.
Also been working at redesigning my A2A bypass system. Firstly I had it routed hot side and know as you can see It routed from the cool side after it goes through the intercooler. I think also the KB 2.8L moves so much air the little 1.5" OD bypass cannot do it alone so I'm adding a twin. I think this will keep it cooler on the street and make for a safer setup all around. I will block off the other opening that was used originally.
Also picked up a TIG mechine Everlast PowerTIG185 and have been teaching myself this winter to weld Aluminum. So far I'm very happy with the mechine and learning to lay down a good weld bead and join material is a challenge but Im geeting it. I have always wanted to learn to TIG weld so I could do all of my own fabrication work. I should be building another A2A setup for a Corral member here soon and will be doing the welding as well as the modification to my own setup.
Also been working at redesigning my A2A bypass system. Firstly I had it routed hot side and know as you can see It routed from the cool side after it goes through the intercooler. I think also the KB 2.8L moves so much air the little 1.5" OD bypass cannot do it alone so I'm adding a twin. I think this will keep it cooler on the street and make for a safer setup all around. I will block off the other opening that was used originally.
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Very interested to see how the twin by-pass valves work out for you, would be interested to know if there is a real measurable difference. It seems to me that you may be on to something with this idea and may have to incorporate it into my build. Look forward to updates.
I should be getting my engine back from the machine shop within the next few weeks.....using a Dart Iron Eagle block, Callies crank and Oliver rods along with the updated AFR 220 cylinder head. Will be 358cid with 9.0:1 compression.
Upon further consideration......
I do not believe that two by-pass valves will be any better than one bypass valve. Why? Glad you asked. This is not a turbo that has pressurized air before the throttle body.........when the throttle closes, the amount of air getting to the supercharger is next to nothing, thus when the throttle closes, boost instantly drops to zero, in fact, the engine goes into maximum vacuum. There is in essence zero air to "bypass" thus the 1.5" diameter bypass valve is more than capable of re-circulating any of the air left in the inlet or outlet manifolds. All it is doing is releasing what ever heat and pressure is left in the outlet manifold, and that volume is finite and dissipated almost instantly.
I do not believe that two by-pass valves will be any better than one bypass valve. Why? Glad you asked. This is not a turbo that has pressurized air before the throttle body.........when the throttle closes, the amount of air getting to the supercharger is next to nothing, thus when the throttle closes, boost instantly drops to zero, in fact, the engine goes into maximum vacuum. There is in essence zero air to "bypass" thus the 1.5" diameter bypass valve is more than capable of re-circulating any of the air left in the inlet or outlet manifolds. All it is doing is releasing what ever heat and pressure is left in the outlet manifold, and that volume is finite and dissipated almost instantly.KB tech Docs show the bypassed air moving from the discharge side to the inlet, not because of positive pressure in the discharge but because the compressor moves more air than the motor so it also creates more vacuum when throttle body closed. Again after the throttle body you have 2 air pumps the motor and the KB compressor both competing for air via the throttle body. Since the KB wins out in this battle the bypass will circulate that neg pressure air from the discharge to the inlet. I have talked with KB on this and I know this all seems counter intuitive, but hey assured me there was air movement even under vac.
wp331
Member
Yep I think that is what Vernon was saying...his general gist was ...isn't one bypass enough? I data log all my drag race passes and the inlet temps drop like a rock at the end of the quarter when i snap the throttle shut. I dont think a more dramatic environment could exist than going from full tilt 8000rpm wide open throttle to throttle closed... could it?KB tech Docs show the bypassed air moving from the discharge side to the inlet, not because of positive pressure in the discharge but because the compressor moves more air than the motor so it also creates more vacuum when throttle body closed. Again after the throttle body you have 2 air pumps the motor and the KB compressor both competing for air via the throttle body. Since the KB wins out in this battle the bypass will circulate that neg pressure air from the discharge to the inlet. I have talked with KB on this and I know this all seems counter intuitive, but hey assured me there was air movement even under vac.
wp331
Member
That was a battle that almost broke my will. In the end it was nothing else but the new procharger race intercooler with sheet metal end tanks. It was a very nice unit but the 3x5x25 inch end tanks sang like banshee. I ended up with going with 4" thick 12x31 with cast end tanks and all the vibration and nasty whaling went away 
Been welding all week and have got some nice beeds going down. The hardest is welding round pipe thin wall especially and any open gaps tend to want to burn through. I have got it down though and am confident I can weld about anything I will need in my fabrication work. Watch out next year I may come up with something really wild, sky the limit now
Been welding all week and have got some nice beeds going down. The hardest is welding round pipe thin wall especially and any open gaps tend to want to burn through. I have got it down though and am confident I can weld about anything I will need in my fabrication work. Watch out next year I may come up with something really wild, sky the limit now
wp331
Member
The beast is getting close to test n tune time! Vernon and I got the transmission back in and running. Just finished repainting the hood. Now i am waiting on the new rear wheels and the schoneck bumper cover and I can finish it up.....counting down the days. Vernon's car is coming along nicely as well. In 2 weeks we should have all the fab work done and close to installing the drive train. Then he has to wire it up......
Can't wait to see your setup guys, you inspire me. There are not many out there making big power with KB's and no doubt you guys lead the pack. I just finished with the fabrication and welding on my intake for the new dual bypass setup. I spent many hours in practice on Alum TIG welding and it paid off. I can now weld round pipe, "not easy", and even fill gaps which with alum is a challenge. Here is the completed setup.
wp331
Member
oooo...aaaaahhh!!!! perty!Can't wait to see your setup guys, you inspire me. There are not many out there making big power with KB's and no doubt you guys lead the pack. I just finished with the fabrication and welding on my intake for the new dual bypass setup. I spent many hours in practice on Alum TIG welding and it paid off. I can now weld round pipe, "not easy", and even fill gaps which with alum is a challenge. Here is the completed setup.
Hey fellas could you shed some light one your oil level in the 2.8lc gear case. Since we had to run the blower discharge upside down we had to drill tap another oil dipstick hole on the front gear case. I did mine in the same spot but did not recess the dipstick hole like the bottom was however I did make a new level line lower on the dipstick the same amount of the recessed orig hole. Now I have been having really dark oil nothing smells burnt and the pulley without play back and forth so the spider gear should be fine. I'm running 7.5 crank and 2.5 blower pulley so the kb should be at its max 18000 rpm. I just changed oil and measured the amount that it took only 4 oz and that brought it up to the lower mark and with max blower rpm it should be 1/4 inch lower which would make the case only have maybe 3.5 oz.. That just seems like way to little oil to me.. Maybe the cover when run upside down changes the amount of oil or something. What has Been your experience with the oil level and how fast it get dark. Also seems like whenever I hit full boost and higher rpm the gear oil gets pump out pretty fast.
wp331
Member
I did not find a noticable difference in fluid amount after flipping the case we run below the fill line about 1/4 inch but it definitely takes more than 4 oz to get there. We also run a over flow return system on the blower since it really wants to push fluid out on max drag passes. BTW we ran 5.96 in the 1/8 th mile last weekend in our latest 8.5 outlaw race with more to come....
I drilled the hole for the dipstick but did not recess the hole like in the original stock hole so what I did was make a lower hash mark on the dipstick the same amount of the recess on the stock hole. Maybe I screwed up and should have raised the hash mark. Does this make sense to you. I would like to know if and when you next change your oil how much you put in to get it to 1/4 lower thanthe bottom line. Also did you recess the dipstick hole after you drilled and tapped it. Aslo do you think I should have raised the level line or lower for it not being recessed?
wp331
Member
I did not recess the hole. I would put at least 6 oz in and see where the line ends up. Are you using kb fluid?
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