Good street tires for 400+ hp
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Hey Iluminator, is that your dog in your avatar? It makes me laugh but grosses me out at the same time...
Yea, i pulled the trigger on my tire purchase a little faster than I wanted. I saw that discounttiredirect was giving a $50 rebate on 4 Nitto's - only through 2/28 so I bought on 2/28.
atey950
Founding Member
Does nitto make a tire that can compare to Mickey ET street radial?
...that sounds like a google search. Just wondering.
...that sounds like a google search. Just wondering.
Illuminator
Active Member
No....found that online... this is mine.... View attachment 132618
a better view of my lack of clearance with gas tank out of the way....anyone know what all that jagged/torched metal is?
View attachment 132621
atey950
Founding Member
That's what I thought. Seems that nitto is more of a street tire and Mickey is more of a slick. Plus Mickey Thompson is just badass
Now I need to find out what size spacers I need to keep my 17 x 9's from touching the back edge of the front lower control arm when I turn the wheel all the way. With 245's on the 17 x9's, the wheel rim will touch the arm. I'd like to space it outward enough so that the rubber touches - if anything.
Good question. I'll have to investigate. I would consider spacers a temporary countermeasure.
I've run spacers in the rear with no problems, but most people i know that ran them in the front did away with them because they had issues with the lugs loosening up. Not my experience, but it would be enough to prevent me from doing it.
Really seems like you are willing to go through quite a bit of trouble to run these wheels. Running tubular control arms will add to your headache, first it will be finding a set that works with the stock k that has spring perches, then you'll realize that it's easier to get a k member kit, then you will find that you can't get the ride height right and you will be on to coil overs, then the wheels you are killing yourself to use hit the coil overs and you have to start all over.
Honestly, just get a set of wheels that fit right.
I know you have them already, just keep in mind they are fairly cheap and easy to come by, they just aren't worth modding the car to make them work.
Really seems like you are willing to go through quite a bit of trouble to run these wheels. Running tubular control arms will add to your headache, first it will be finding a set that works with the stock k that has spring perches, then you'll realize that it's easier to get a k member kit, then you will find that you can't get the ride height right and you will be on to coil overs, then the wheels you are killing yourself to use hit the coil overs and you have to start all over.
Honestly, just get a set of wheels that fit right.
I know you have them already, just keep in mind they are fairly cheap and easy to come by, they just aren't worth modding the car to make them work.
My stupid 'bargain' purchase has turned into a real pain in the butt... they look nice though. 
Since the wheels touch the rearward facing flange on the lower front control arm I have been tossing around in my head taking the control arms out, boxing them in with some 1/8" plate and removing the rear flange. Not sure if this would be enough to keep the wheel from touching but I don't think it could hurt. In a more radical move, I could re-engineer the rear section and rebuild it with more clearance.
I had to notch my Maximum Motorsports brace when i installed my blower (outlet tube interfered with the bottom of the tube). I cut out a 1/4 moon shape and then welded in a plate to try to get close to original strength. No problems so far. Yea, that's not a control arm... a little more risk there.
Since the wheels touch the rearward facing flange on the lower front control arm I have been tossing around in my head taking the control arms out, boxing them in with some 1/8" plate and removing the rear flange. Not sure if this would be enough to keep the wheel from touching but I don't think it could hurt. In a more radical move, I could re-engineer the rear section and rebuild it with more clearance.
I had to notch my Maximum Motorsports brace when i installed my blower (outlet tube interfered with the bottom of the tube). I cut out a 1/4 moon shape and then welded in a plate to try to get close to original strength. No problems so far. Yea, that's not a control arm... a little more risk there.
Only you know if your fabrication skills are up to snuff to the point in which it would be safe. I do all my own Chassis and Fab work and have been welding for a long time. If you do decide to attempt to modify the control arm please post some pictures. We had a 69 camaro that we built with twin YSI's and we had to make a custom upper control arm for the pass. side to clear the blower volute.. Great results and all chromoly with no trouble for the last two years but hours and hours of thought went into the design. Anything can be done, but again you have to decide if it's safe enough to put someone else behind the wheel. Any hesitation as to the safety of something generally means it is not that safe..
Good points. With my mechanical engineering degree and all the practice I've had with my MIG, I think I can come up with a good redesign. Since the rear arm is mostly in compression, I'm a little less concerned than I would be modifying the front arm of the triange.
That said, can I use mild steel plate/bar stock or do I need to go with a better steel? If so, what would you suggest and can I weld it with my MIG?
Thanks!
I think mild steel would be adequate in the right thickness. I tig weld almost everything. I think there is much better control of heat, penetration and filler.
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