Bringing back to life an 87' GT T-top

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Do not use the El Cheapo plastic or polyethelyne air brake tubing for the oil pressure gauge connection. It will soften with heat and crack with age: It has a high probablity of failure over time.

Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.

Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. It goes in the gauge hose fitting closest to the engine block I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.

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Simple high school pyhsics: Pascal’s Law
More than 300 years ago a French scientist, Blaise Pascal, determined that if you had a liquid-filled container with only one opening and applied force to the liquid through that opening, the force would be evenly distributed throughout the liquid.

See http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/files/hydraulic system theory.pdf for more information.
 
Simple high school pyhsics: Pascal’s Law
More than 300 years ago a French scientist, Blaise Pascal, determined that if you had a liquid-filled container with only one opening and applied force to the liquid through that opening, the force would be evenly distributed throughout the liquid.

See http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/files/hydraulic system theory.pdf for more information.
This may be the best technical justification I have seen on stangnet to date.
 
Finally getting around to updating last weekends progress. We've been having good sunny weather with highs in the mid 60's which helps progress a lot. It's about to cool back down but that's ok it gives me time to get all my autobody materials needed for sanding, primer & sealing which will start happening in the next couple weeks. I also need to get my dads 5.5hp compressor over to my garage so I can have the SCFM to use my pneumatic sanders and HVLP guns. My compressor just doesn't cut it.

Anyways here's some pictures.

I picked up some used dirty black seats a while back and needed to shampoo them.
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now they're mostly clean
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Slave labor, they work for pb&j!!
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All seats installed with new carpet. Still have more work to do but time and money is never in abundance with me.
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After I got it all in I took her for a trip around the block ghetto style but my son and I had fun and that's all that matters. I'm going to make sure able to drive most of the time because I gotta start enjoying it sooner than later. Going to start sanding and smoothing out the body this weekend.
 

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My vision for the car is not perfectly clear yet and doesn't really need to be clear till I start shooting color. I'm kind of on the fence with going old 50's style black primer/flat black paint look. I like old rat rod trucks and cars that just look simple, tough and angry. Nothing fancy for me although I respect other peoples cars with really nice and bright bc/cc paint jobs. I've never been into bling style vehicles for myself so black on black without high gloss shine maybe the end result for my car. Other people may look at it and think it's unfinished but some people will get it.
 
Seats look good man!

As far as what color to paint your car, you know you should do what you want. I prefer a stock look with subtle changes, just enough that makes it look a tad different than from the factory. What's important is that when you walk away from your car and turn around to look back at it (because we all do that) you're happy with how it looks. If you can do that then who cares if other people get it or not.

Your car, your money, make yourself happy.
 
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Your car, your money, make yourself happy. boostfrk

You're absolutely right about that. I've been looking into the matte black (aka, hot rod black) type of paint and nobody seems to say anything good about the upkeep of it after it's been sprayed. I'm wanting something different that isn't seen too much with a twist but i'm still undecided. I want simple yet different and that's not going to be easy to pull off.

The worst thing that can happen is what I envision in my mind doesn't please me the same after I shoot it, I can just repaint it. Not a big deal really. I have time, it's going to take me probably a month to do all the body work and prep and build my paint booth in my garage. I saw an awesome video of a guy that built a DIY paint booth in his home garage and turned out well.

I'm getting stoked on paint!!!
 
I do personally like satin black cars. Straight flat black does look unfinished to me, but satin makes it look like you wanted it that way on purpose. Wheel choice and color is important with paint like that though. Can make or break the car, IMO.
 
I do personally like satin black cars. Straight flat black does look unfinished to me, but satin makes it look like you wanted it that way on purpose. Wheel choice and color is important with paint like that though. Can make or break the car, IMO.
At the philly auto show a few months back they had a new Mercedes in a satin champagne color that looked incredible, can't believe it was a factory option on a 100k$ car
 
It would be a satin black, not a completely flat black like I sprayed it with high temp BBQ paint from a rattle can. To get the Hot Rod Black they put a flattener in the clear. It goes on shiny at first and then the clear shine begins to retard to a dull. No buffing or wet sanding is aloud so the environment has to be very free of dust, bugs and particles.

If I don't go completely all matte black then i'm going to two tone the car. Maybe a regular high gloss white (or red) on the lower 3/4 of the car and then at the top fender line and above i'll go matte (satin) black. So the top of fenders/hood, roof and hatch/wing would be all matte black. I'm eventually going to get the 17" 10th anniversary Cobra wheels (staggered) and they'd be black too. If i do red i'll put a red accent line on the lip of the wheels. That's where I'm at right now.
 
So this weekend wasn't as useful as I would've liked. Rainy and windy all weekend but I did manage to grab my dads air compressor that is 5hp and has way more CFM than mine. I also got tons of sanding paper, pads and misc supplies. I however cannot for the life of me find my dang HVLP paint gun. Some old tweeker friend of mine must have "borrowed" it. I haven't had any need for it for a few years plus I've moved a couple times so it's also possible it's been misplaced or yet to be found in some boxes I have yet to open but unlikely since I've found my box of hardner, reducer and primers.

Anyway my son is stoked and can't wait to get to work
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I installed new lighting in my garage this weekend too. Two CFL lights just isn't going to cut so i purchased and installed two new 4' lights that have two T5 lamps in each. Now I can see how ugly my mustang really is and needs a makeover ASAP!!

The temps are cooling back down into the low 50's for high and mid to low 30's again for the low. This mean I can't shoot primer which means I can start pulling dents and sanding just yet. I'll find other things to do like fiberglassing the rear bumper skirt that's cracked and doing other prep work till it's at least 60+ degrees.

Stay tuned!
 

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So yesterday I removed the passenger door that had PDL and PW to replace it with manual window and hand crank windows (my favorite) and as I was disconnecting the harness I saw this................

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from what limited info I've read about this I get that this is basically a chip that advances timing and dumps more fuel to get a few extra HP for mainly stock vehicles. However I don't think stock applies to my 5.0 since I have......
1) JBA headers
2) O/R H-pipe with dual FM
3) intake with 75mm MAF conversion
4) unknown lopey cam that sounds like it's nearly going to stall
5) stock heads and upper/lower intake manifold but who knows if they ported it and i have stock 19# injectors.

Car runs great and I smell fuel after I turn it off, most likely b/c it has no cats.

Any thoughts? Info? Opinions? I know if it's not broke, don't fix it but in the future I will be doing some type of head swap and upper/lower intake upgrade.