Snapped Clutch Cable!

notch351

Member
Jul 30, 2010
110
2
19
well it finally happened. after 13 mustangs and hearing stuff about aftermarket cable issues. I was forced to have the cobra towed home the other day while downshifting the cable snapped and the pedal fell to the floor. bogus. good news is it was from upr and they are going to warrenty the cable out and i kept my old stock one so i had a back up. it broke right off at the connection to the clutch fork.
 
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I've broken every single aftermarket cable I've ever bought. But have never broken a single stock cable! Most times I was using an aftermarket due to swapping an auto to a 5 speed and just didn't have a stocker to use.
 
Been there done that man...it sucks. Having a little issue myself. I've already snapped one clutch cable about 5 months ago and now other day pedal felt sticky and felt a pop so I knew it was getting ready to snap again. Got 1st cable from autozone but beginning to wander if I should buy steeda cable since have steeda firewall adjuster and steeda dual quadrant underneath dash. Is the steeda cable that much longer? Or could something else be happening to cause clutch cable to get twisted up?
 
Been there done that man...it sucks. Having a little issue myself. I've already snapped one clutch cable about 5 months ago and now other day pedal felt sticky and felt a pop so I knew it was getting ready to snap again. Got 1st cable from autozone but beginning to wander if I should buy steeda cable since have steeda firewall adjuster and steeda dual quadrant underneath dash. Is the steeda cable that much longer? Or could something else be happening to cause clutch cable to get twisted up?

Buy whatever quadrant and FWA you like. Stick however, with an OEM style cable (MM sells the OEM style).

If you're running aftermarket headers, buy the cable for the 94/95. They're longer and you can route them for more clearance.
 
Buy whatever quadrant and FWA you like. Stick however, with an OEM style cable (MM sells the OEM style).

If you're running aftermarket headers, buy the cable for the 94/95. They're longer and you can route them for more clearance.
Yea I've had several people tell me to stick with oem even with running aftermarket adjuster. Thanks again for advise!! Was thinking sticky pedal came from throw out bearing being worn out so just trying to figure out what to do ha
 
I still think the BBK cable is the best. All the others get the bracket wrong and it interferes with longtubes. The last one I bought was a Steeda, and I had to take the bracket off of it, and put the old BBK bracket on it.

My clutch slave cylinder got a catastrophic leak on my truck at 4am in the morning on my way to work. I had to start it in gear and drive it 43 miles without a clutch to work. I was on probation with the airline at the time and couldn't miss work. That sucked.

Kurt
 
I still think the BBK cable is the best. All the others get the bracket wrong and it interferes with longtubes. The last one I bought was a Steeda, and I had to take the bracket off of it, and put the old BBK bracket on it.

My clutch slave cylinder got a catastrophic leak on my truck at 4am in the morning on my way to work. I had to start it in gear and drive it 43 miles without a clutch to work. I was on probation with the airline at the time and couldn't miss work. That sucked.

Kurt
Oh wow that's a crazy situation!! Yea I've got slp mid lengths on mine so defiantly don't need anything interfering. Me being picky and this happening twice wanted to make sure something else wasn't causing cable to get twisted up. I had thought throw out bearing was sticking but then remembered worn out throw out bearing usually makes groaning or chattering noise