Whichignition Box?
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Did a little digging. Found the wire crimps from the aftermarket ignition box to the coil became disconnected and were hidden by the wire loom. Tested for spark upon cranking and now have a strong spark. Still no fire though. Plugs get wet with fuel. Firing order confirmed correct. I did put in 60# injectors and matching maf but that shouldnt affect anything. Do I need to spray some starting fluid in the tb?
gearheadboy
15 Year Member
Just to throw it out there...can it get air? Anything blocking the intake? Turbo got a cap on it? I'm not sure the plugs are still the first set or what but make them DRY with a torch or replace them. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil. If it is way overfull and smells like gas change it before you find your spark. Has it gotten so much fuel with no spark that it washed the rings down and has no compression? Just ideas.
thanks gearhead, thanks for the tips, the turbi inlet cap was still on!! I removed it, and still just crank and no start. I've installed 60# injectors along with the matching blow thru maf during the turbo install. Is it possible that they are just injecting too much fuel for the car to start? I am getting a Moates tune done for the car, but obviously not until it is running. I am getting fuel and spark. I tried drying off the plugs with a blow torch, but still no start. Maybe need a shot of starting fluid to get it to fire? I will check the oil for gas this evening. If it did get too much fuel as you mentioned, how would I go about drying that fuel out of the cylinders?
welp, It's alive! I traced the extra wire connected to the eec test connector and it ended up being the sti wire. Previous owner must've stuck it in there. Pulled the codes and got some emissions codes do to missing items, as well as act sensor. Pulled the act sensor off and it was coated with gas. Cleaned it and reinstalled. Started up. Rich as hell. The fp was set at 39, but was now getting 60 with the new injectors in. Dropped it back to 39, and was finally able to hold an idle for me to set timint to 10 btdc. Ordered a Moates Quarterhorse with a custom tune by Willie at DirtyDirty Racing. Did an oil change to get rid of the gas soaked oil, and tightened up some hot pipe fittings. Lets hope Willie's tuuneis spot on!
Thanks for all the help guys.
Thanks for all the help guys.
gearheadboy
15 Year Member
Good deal! P.S. if you ever flood one that bad and want to dry the cylinders as you said, DISABLE THE SPARK by unplugging the coil or distributor. You don't want a stray spark anywhere. Then pull all the plugs and crank the engine with them out. Its a good idea to put some type of towel over the spark plug holes draped so it doesn't spit the fuel onto your inner fenders. It will blow the fuel out in only one or two revolutions. Then install the plugs and re connect the spark.
Bill Gordon
Active Member
Deja Vu all over again. I had a similar issue over the winter when I installed my KB blower. None of us bothered to check that the factory taped off the blower discharge. Took a week to figure it out. Same symptoms, wet plugs and no start. Got the tape off the blower and reinstalled it. Held the gas pedal all the way down and she fired. I changed my oil as well. After my dyno tune, she runs like a beast. I was out of town last week and just saw this or I would have put my .02 in. Glad you got her going,
What makes the Ford Racing wires "Junky"?
High ohm readings the Ford Racing wires are horrible. MSD also changed their wires over that last couple years not as nice as the old ones they now have blended silicone jackets and are made over seas.
Taylor makes a very High quality wire along with the Moroso super 40...only ones I use any more.
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Rick. I do respect your knowledge and certainly not trying to stir the pot, I was under the impression you should match the wires to the rest of the ignition. Does using a low ohm expensive set of wires with the stock ignition have any significant benefit? I know everyone hates the FMS wires, but I've run them on several cars with no arcing, misfires, or fouled plugs. I've also run MSD, Taylor, and just about every other brand out there. I agree the Taylor is a nice set but pricy. Often I've found the most expensive sometimes are not the best. I remember a while back in one of the hundred or so "which wires are best" threads, somebody did an actual dyno study between some store brand $40 wires and $100 premium wires and the difference was negligible for a typical bolt on car.
I'll go and hide now under a chair to avoid the bombs coming my way...........
No offense taken low ohm readings are important no matter what ignition you are using.... Resistance is important.
The things you get with the more expensive wires high quality silicone covering and or silicone boots. They will take a lot more heat and abuse on a turbo or supercharged car or any car that has tight header clearance or increased under hood heat.
I use to stock the MSD stuff in spools at my shop and I custom made all sets. After destroying 6 sets of MSD wires in less than 500 miles even using expensive braided heat shield and Dei boot covers I called taylor and I never look back. MSD was no help at all and actually sent me to accel for ceramic boots.... That's how I found out their wires had changed in the jackets are no longer the same. I was actually destroying the MSD wires from the inside out on a turbo car that had wrapped turbo headers the DEI boots and the heat sleeves
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The things you get with the more expensive wires high quality silicone covering and or silicone boots. They will take a lot more heat and abuse on a turbo or supercharged car or any car that has tight header clearance or increased under hood heat.
I use to stock the MSD stuff in spools at my shop and I custom made all sets. After destroying 6 sets of MSD wires in less than 500 miles even using expensive braided heat shield and Dei boot covers I called taylor and I never look back. MSD was no help at all and actually sent me to accel for ceramic boots.... That's how I found out their wires had changed in the jackets are no longer the same. I was actually destroying the MSD wires from the inside out on a turbo car that had wrapped turbo headers the DEI boots and the heat sleeves
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Agreed.... I looked at a set of those on a Viper very nice
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Ah well, at least my Ford Racing wires are pretty to look at. Too late to send them back now. Guess I'll hang onto them until they give me problems.
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