How Can I Tell If This Was Done...

SoFlStang

Member
May 22, 2013
87
1
19
Recent issues with my car have me wondering how much of what I was told about the car is true. If it has not been done, thats my fault for not researching or knowing enough before I purchased it. So if anyone can tell me how to verify the below, I would appreciate it.

Freshly built 331 stroker
Cams fully worked
E7 heads
Aftermarket rods pistons etc... less than 1k miles on it
Edelbrock performer intake (I can see the edelbrock intake, not sure which model it is)
4.10s (I believe its actually 3.73 based on calculator)
65mm throttle body
BBK shorty headers
Lightning Maf sensor

Thanks again.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Dare we ask what the "recent issues" are? First thing, is the engine essentially spotless, freshly painted, and looks like it was just rebuilt? Not the accessories, but the engine block, heads, pan, intake, etc. E7 heads are factory, so you're pretty safe there. You can measure the throttle body if you take the rubber hose off it, so that's fairly easy. On the engine internals, the only way to be sure is to take it apart. Failing that, receipts (from a machine shop or engine rebuilder) from the seller would provide some evidence, with the sellers name on them and matching up to what he claimed. Failing receipts, you can ask who did the machine work, and try talking to them. On the edelbrock intake, search the internet for a picture, and then look at yours. On the 331, you can try to measure the stroke through a spark plug hole in the head, but it's not easy in the car, and you need to be careful not to damage anything doing it.
 
Dare we ask what the "recent issues" are? First thing, is the engine essentially spotless, freshly painted, and looks like it was just rebuilt? Not the accessories, but the engine block, heads, pan, intake, etc. E7 heads are factory, so you're pretty safe there. You can measure the throttle body if you take the rubber hose off it, so t:hat's fairly easy. On the engine internals, the only way to be sure is to take it apart. Failing that, receipts (from a machine shop or engine rebuilder) from the seller would provide some evidence, with the sellers name on them and matching up to what he claimed. Failing receipts, you can ask who did the machine work, and try talking to them. On the edelbrock intake, search the internet for a picture, and then look at yours. On the 331, you can try to measure the stroke through a spark plug hole in the head, but it's not easy in the car, and you need to be careful not to damage anything doing it.
I was thinking the stroke would be about as easy to measure as the intake parts bore. Find the plug with the straightest shot, and get a dowel or a plastic straw to mark at tdc and bottom stroke. Neither will scratch the internal motor parts.
On a side note, unless ported, I am surprised no one is throwing a fit about only E7 heads on a stroker motor.
 
What does cams fully worked mean? A 302 based motor has one cam in the block, and almost no one regrinds these blanks like in the flathead days. That sounds goofy to me.But if they mean it has a hotter cam, the idle will almost show it. The stock EFI takes some careful tinkering to not idle high or at least a little rough. My car was worked over two owners ago, The most recent owner found it too high strung and loud for the whole family. Everything I was told was done (that I have been able to check out, ) was done but I did not plan on being that lucky. Receipts are very good.
 
Am I the only one who finds it suspect that someone would go through the trouble and expense of building a stroker, just to bolt on a set of stock E7TE head?

OP, please take some close up pics of the engine bay and your components in question. That's the only way you're going to get any solid info.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I really wish I would have known about this site prior to getting my car. I knew it was going to need stuff, but lately I have felt like the previous owner just flat out lied to me. As for fully worked cams, that just what he sent me when he described the car and engine work, figured if it meant something, you guys would know, Ill get some pics of the engine and post them up. I am really doubting it has a stroker kit on it or that it was rebuilt. I can see that the manifold says edelbrock and the headers are bbk. Pics coming tonight. Guess I just found more work I need to do on the car.
 
Here are some pics. Let me know if you need more or closer or better pics. Thanks again everyone for your help. Ill eventually get this car up to par.


engine.jpg


enginert.jpg


engineheaders.jpg
 
Externally, many of the items are easily checked- intake, heads, exhaust, TB, MAF. However, there is no way externally to tell the difference between a 302 or 331. They are the same block. The difference is one has a stock stroke and the 331 has different internals- pistons, crank, rods- all inside the bottom end. You can check the cylinder volume with the methods described which can indicate what size motor you have.

That being said, I can't imagine anyone going trough the time and expense of making a 331 and leaving the crappy flowing stock E7 heads on.

From the pics you have an edelbrock manifold and BBK headers. Cannot tell what MAF or TB you have. Post some pics of those.

One thing I will say is get rid of that cone air filter. It picks up the under hood heat, fan wash, and makes your car run lean. A stock air box with K&N will run better, or a fenderwell CAI.. At a minimum it needs a cleaning.

For the gears, jack up the rear and put it on jackstands. Put a white mark on the differential yoke. With the car in nuetral spin one of the rear tires one time and count the number of revolutions the yoke makes. If the yoke turns 4 times, you have 4.10's. If 3 times, you have 3.08's.

What are all those wires under the hood? It looks like a rats nest. You are aware the A/C lines are disconnected.
 
Yeah, the wiring is a mess. I am working on cleaning it all up. I am going to find a stock air box and replace the filter. There is no a/c, I believe he just left the compressor in to act as a pulley as all the other a/c parts are gone. I am going to guess he lied about the rebuild and the stroker kit, and assume the engine is stock. I do know when I went to replace the oil pressure sending unit, the one that came off was from a 90-93 engine , as the replacement for the 88 was a different type and would not fit. I ended up going with an aftermarket mechanics gauge. Is there a way to tell for sure what year my engine is from, as this is probably not the cars original engine. Thanks again for all the info. Im a little over my head at the moment, but its a good learning experience.
 
Looks pretty stock to me. E7 heads on a stroker motor? nope. Most people would have at least attempted to clean up the engine bay/engine accessories after ripping the block out. Hopefully you didn't pay too much extra for that "stroker". Seems like a decent start though, ditch that cone filter and clean up that bay!
 
Well I will take this as a lesson, and I will work with what I have and move forward building it. Time to research what the best build is for what I want to use the car for and go from there. At least the 4 disc/5 lug conversion is complete now, thanks to help from the forum. Now to research what wiring is garbage under there, clean up what is needed and keep working. Thanks again everyone for the input, this forum is pure mustang knowledge gold.
 
Judging by the amount of dirt and grime on the parts of the motor...i'm guessing that it hasn't been taken apart.

Prob a stock 302 with an aftermarket intake.

How does it idle? Noticable lope...or idles like a stock Mustang? If the later, than the cams were only partially worked. ;)
 
Yeah i'd put money on you being lied to... no one with half a brain would reinstall e7 heads on to a fresh 331.

Setup a goal for the car and then take your time and sort it all out. It's easy to get lost or discouraged dealing with someone else's mess.