Crash Course In Blowers

Hey all,

I just purchased a new (to me) 2002 Mustang GT. The reason for this thread is, as the title says, this is a crash course for me with Superchargers, as i personally have no experience with them up until now. Here's what i know the car has, per the previous owners email.
Vortech SQ V2 Supercharger.
Intercooled
High performance fuel pump
High performance racing chip
K&N air-filter
Cooler spark plugs
3:73 rear end gears vice 3:27
Accufab oversized Plenum with 70mm throttle body
Magnaflow Magnapack Catback exhaust system ( 2 ½ “ pipes with 3 ½ ” chrome pipes)

So i want to run some gauges to see how much boost im running, and to keep a better eye on the engine specs when operating, but im not sure what ones i should focus on purchasing. I think im probably going to purchase the gauge cluster overlay so it'll only have 2 gauges. Any information as to what i should do to keep this thing running would be greatly appreciated(maintenance tips, etc.), as well as any information in regards to what upgrades i should look into to up boost or HP. Like, i just learned that underdrive pulleys are detrimental to boost when you have a supercharger.
Thanks in advance to anyone who helps! :SN:
Also, let me know if there is any more information you guys need.
 
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Do you have pics of the car, motor, etc. odd seller is so vague about what is done to the car. Personally I could name every single part that went into my blower build. Stranger yet it wouldn't have a boost gauge along with intercooler water temp for starters. The guy didn't have dyno sheets on the car? Most blown cars are dyno tuned as they all act a little different
 
Here is a pic, let me know what else you would need.
 

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If it is a V2, that means the supercharger is engine-oil lubricated, IIRC.

That looks like the out-of-the-box Vortech V2 kit. Aftercooled, fuel pump included, (probably fuel injectors included), tune included, etc. Nothing at all wrong with it. Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 350-360 rwhp.

Better exhaust (offroad [non-catted] midpipe and/or long tube headers) and a custom dyno tune will go a long ways towards making more power. Those things should easily put you near or at 400 rwhp. A smaller supercharger pulley would easily put you over 400. Go small enough, and that unit will easily make more than enough power to scatter some rods and/or pistons. A front-mount intercooler (FMIC) would also yield some benefits, but probably not enough to justify the cost on a stock-bottom-end motor.
 
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If it is a V2, that means the supercharger is engine-oil lubricated, IIRC.

That looks like the out-of-the-box Vortech V2 kit. Aftercooled, fuel pump included, (probably fuel injectors included), tune included, etc. Nothing at all wrong with it. Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 350-360 rwhp.

Better exhaust (offroad [non-catted] midpipe and/or long tube headers) and a custom dyno tune will go a long ways towards making more power. Those things should easily put you near or at 400 rwhp. A smaller supercharger pulley would easily put you over 400. Go small enough, and that unit will easily make more than enough power to scatter some rods and/or pistons. A front-mount intercooler (FMIC) would also yield some benefits, but probably not enough to justify the cost on a stock-bottom-end motor.


Yeah, i dont think ill be getting a FMIC since this is only a V2 supercharger. As for the dyno, the seller said it was dyno tuned, and claimed that it puts out about 400 HP, but i think i might get a tuner from American Muscle. I would go to a dyno, but i cant seem to locate any in DE.
 
Yeah, i dont think ill be getting a FMIC since this is only a V2 supercharger. As for the dyno, the seller said it was dyno tuned, and claimed that it puts out about 400 HP, but i think i might get a tuner from American Muscle. I would go to a dyno, but i cant seem to locate any in DE.


Did he give you a dyno sheet? If not, I doubt it's been dyno tuned. Could have been, but I doubt it.

Most of the time, dyno tuners will offer deals if you buy a programmer and a dyno tune from them. Probably a good $100 cheaper than if you bought a programmer and dyno tune separately.

As for the gauges, a wideband O2 sensor/gauge is definitely a necessity if you want to do it right. I run an Innovate Motorsports gauge that works perfectly. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QFH2RW/?tag=stangnet-20 (They have other colors as well). A boost gauge is also nice.

If you have the money, an Aeroforce Interceptor is a sweet addition. http://aeroforcetech.com/products_order_ford.html#cnf It's a scan gauge, which means you can see all kinds of parameters. Intake temps, spark timing, fuel trims, shift point, etc. AND you can still hook up a wideband sensor to that gauge. If I were doing it all over again, I'd get one of those and a boost gauge, but I understand money is an issue for lots of folks (myself included).
 
Hey the only thing im worried about now, is what im going to do come winter time. The Vortech website said that the temp cant drop below 20 degrees F. What options do i have, as this will be my daily driver in winter as well as summer.

It has to do with the oil viscosity at lower temps and the incredible RPM's centri's run. Basically, under freezing temp, the oil is too thick to properly lubricate the SC while running higher RPMs. Unless you hold a blow-torch to the SC before starting, just let the car come up to temp before getting on it. Do not get into boost until you get to a proper temp.

In other words, starting the car in 0 degree temps and going WOT immediately is not a good idea.