Does Anyone Else Find This Odd?

[hoopty5.0]

Torque box reinforcements -
$149 from Wild Rides
$49 from eBay (SMR manufacturing brand)



I've bought the SMR ones before and will buy them again because lets face it, they're cheaper and they fit fine.


So are y'all an A or B?

A) Hell yes, I'll pinch pennies where I can! Shut up and take my money, eBay.

B) F--k no, if it doesn't say (insert brand here), it's not getting anywhere near my car.

 

[Noobz347]

For torque box reinforcements.... I dunno that there is a brand that I prefer over another.

The only thing that I can think of that might effect my purchase is what they're made of. Fitment issues aren't really an issue if you've resolved in your head ahead of time that every car will be a little bit different and some grinding/cutting may be required regardless of brand.

I think I prefer stainless but I only say that because the ones that I bought years ago, were made from stainless.

Most of the installs that I see are painted over as part of installation. So I don't really think it makes that much of a difference.

 

[RangerJoe]

I've got a set of home made ones i was planning on using, but my car now had the wild ride boxes already installed.

Joe

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Yeah,I penny pinch for my parts....You're talking to a guy that made a cold air intake for his last 5.0L Fox out of ABS sewer pipe. That being said, a select few items I do not skimp on. Essentially....anything electrical. In which case, I go with OEM over anything if I can help it.

 

[hoopty5.0]

@Noobz347 I didn't even think about them being stainless. Went back and looked and there was no mention... But I do agree that every car is different and in this hobby, once you decide to get past the CAI and flowmasters stage, you need to expect to run into something not being an exact fitment.

@Gearbanger 101 I used dryer ducting on my first car. "The Home Depot - You can do it, we can help." HAHAHAHA

 

[mikestang63]

Like everyone else, I try and buy used when I can and also buy things on sale. That being said, there are things I will only buy a quality product. Mostly suspension and braking.

I'm not familiar with the SMR brand but like with any cheaper copy, it will be all about the fitment and quality. I've used the Wild Rides twice before and they fit perfect without any cutting. If your car has been abused you may see some rips already which should be repaired. You will need to massage the uppers to fit the contour of the floorpan.

I'd recommend you weld up all the seams around the upper and lower boxes as they can still rip.

 

[NIKwoaC]

I guess the questions I'd be asking are: 1. How thick is it 2. What kind of steel is it.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I don't know that a steel plate specifically used as a reinforcement for a torque box will be subject to metallurgy scrutiny, considering,..the fact that even an .062-.125 thick plate made outta steel chewing gum would be better than the 18 ga stuff that the factory used for the same purpose.

As a stand alone (like a LCA) I'd understand the reasons to look closer at it. Welded on top of existing structure, no way could it not do the job it's slated for.

Use it.
+1 for El Cheapo.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Use it.
+1 for El Cheapo.

Hah! using it wasn't the question, I'm about to hit the order button. Just curious to see where everyone else stands on this kind of stuff. I agree with your logic.

 

[Chuckman]

the wild rides are notable cause they were one of the first, but its such a simple and generic thing it shouldnt really matter (and i would imagine most on ebay are made in the us by some guy with a laser as a side job). all in all, its about $20 worth of steel, if that.

I think I prefer stainless but I only say that because the ones that I bought years ago, were made from stainless.

this is one place where you really DONT want stainless, the body is mild steel, and stainless and crs dont really weld to each other too well (besides stainless being more of a bitch to work with and somewhat more brittle anyway)

 

[TOOLOW91]

I bought the 89 dollar ones from LMR upper and lowers and did them no complaints here and I am spherical on both ends up top boxes still look like the day I welded them


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers

 

[FastDriver]

I use oak wood. Very strong stuff.

 

[stangboy]

I also bought the LMR ones and I'm sure they will serve the purpose they were meant to serve. Same for subframe connectors....LMR full length. I think they were like $50 cheaper than the MM full length SFCs. For other things like electrical stuff I rather buy from a reputable company(OEM or something like MSD) and I always try to buy it new.

 

[NIKwoaC]

I don't know that a steel plate specifically used as a reinforcement for a torque box will be subject to metallurgy scrutiny, considering,..the fact that even an .062-.125 thick plate made outta steel chewing gum would be better than the 18 ga stuff that the factory used for the same purpose.

As a stand alone (like a LCA) I'd understand the reasons to look closer at it. Welded on top of existing structure, no way could it not do the job it's slated for.

Use it.
+1 for El Cheapo.

I'm an engineer, so I get paid to over think this kind of stuff. Personally, I'd want to know... And I will know when I finally do this myself. I understand your viewpoint though.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I'm an engineer, so I get paid to over think this kind of stuff. Personally, I'd want to know... And I will know when I finally do this myself. I understand your viewpoint though.

Yeah, I know you are an engineer,...and I get the analytical thinking thing. I do think that some things are over analyzed along those lines given the purpose of the "modification."

 

[madspeed]

I'm thinking of picking up some of that steel chewing gum

 

[NIKwoaC]

 

[Rick 91GT]

the wild rides are notable cause they were one of the first, but its such a simple and generic thing it shouldnt really matter (and i would imagine most on ebay are made in the us by some guy with a laser as a side job). all in all, its about $20 worth of steel, if that.

this is one place where you really DONT want stainless, the body is mild steel, and stainless and crs dont really weld to each other too well (besides stainless being more of a **** to work with and somewhat more brittle anyway)

Your logic is a little flawed...you can easily weld the 304L Stainless to mild steel with 309L rod which is a higher nickel content rod. If its a high carbon steel you can use 312 rod. There is no issue at all and the only place you can true weld properly is the top plate.

Instead of just copying the Wild Rides like everyone did I decided to change my own design up and I further tie the plates to the frame with some additional plates....and they are 304L stainless with all stainless fasteners, Tig welded $85/set.

I use to sell a good bit of these but those cheap $20 sets are hard to compete against and its just not worth the time or material price for me to lower the cost. I don't get rich of of them...lol

I've had the beta set on my car and my fathers cobra for 14 years no issues and they were made from 16g stainless. I've had them in cars from 1300hp to stockers with no issues. The TQ kits are made to reinforce what is there so it is important that you straighten the stock ones out and weld the seams then add the kit.

To me the hardest thing about welding on the foxes is all the damn galvanized coating...be careful and use a mask.

I'm a certified welder

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

 

[84Ttop]

@Rick 91GT Show off , lol

I like to make a fair share of the parts for my car, and usually do not skimp on things when it comes to quality. I would rather spend a little more money once than save and spend it time and time again. That being said, if we are comparing apples to apples and there is a large gap in the price I can't see the harm in saving the money.

 

[NIKwoaC]

Your logic is a little flawed...you can easily weld the 304L Stainless to mild steel with 309L rod which is a higher nickel content rod. If its a high carbon steel you can use 312 rod. There is no issue at all and the only place you can true weld properly is the top plate.

Instead of just copying the Wild Rides like everyone did I decided to change my own design up and I further tie the plates to the frame with some additional plates....and they are 304L stainless with all stainless fasteners, Tig welded $85/set.

I use to sell a good bit of these but those cheap $20 sets are hard to compete against and its just not worth the time or material price for me to lower the cost. I don't get rich of of them...lol

I've had the beta set on my car and my fathers cobra for 14 years no issues and they were made from 16g stainless. I've had them in cars from 1300hp to stockers with no issues. The TQ kits are made to reinforce what is there so it is important that you straighten the stock ones out and weld the seams then add the kit.

To me the hardest thing about welding on the foxes is all the damn galvanized coating...be careful and use a mask.

I'm a certified welder

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

How does one go about straightening the stock boxes?