Advice Or Ideas On Next Step With A Dd

[Mustang5L5]

Quad shocks...no won't make a difference. If your rear end is shifting around that much front to back...you need new bushings.

main shocks...yes...will make a difference.

I recommend hooking up with some local stang owners and taking a ride in their car to see the gear ratios and decide how you like it. For me, I feel like i shift way too much with 3.73's and it leaves me no useable gear on the highway cruising without using 5th. I like to cruise in 4th gear at times. Not possible with a stock 3.35 1st gear T-5 and 3.73's. My drag racing days are over. One of these days, i'll change to 3.27's or 3.55's

 

[Mustang5L5]

This is the GT40 intake, upper, lower, and TB the guy has for $150....

These will fit any 302? He said they are from late 90s Explorer

Yes, but that is a non-EGR version.

$150 is high. You can get the same items (lower, upper, injectors and TB) for $75-100 if you search craigslist for a while. I got my setup for $75.

If you go to the boneyard yourself...you can get them even cheaper

 

[madspeed]

This is the GT40 intake, upper, lower, and TB the guy has for $150....

These will fit any 302? He said they are from late 90s Explorer

thats an explorer unit, and will work. see if you can get him down a bit. You will need some slight modifications, but do a search for explorer intake install and you'll see its very simple. You're basically getting a cobra intake and larger throttle body for dirt cheap

 

[Gearhead92]

Yeah, he said 150 OBO. So I'll shoot for around $100 and see what happens.

He responded with $120 because it comes with fuel rails and injectors....are those compatible with my 302? I read that some things are compatible when doing this swap, but the post didn't say what was and wasn't.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Actually, now that I look more closely at the picture, this intake has been installed on a Mustang. The injectors and fuel rails are off a Mustang. You already have these.

If he wants to make a big deal about the injectors and rails, tell him he can keep them.

 

[Gearhead92]

I dropped all that info and said it will just save me time in the junk yard. He went down to $100.

 

[Gearhead92]

So there we go. Picking it up this weekend. A full intake setup for $100. Now I just need the gaskets, new bolts, and a CAI.

Anything else I can do while I'm replacing the intake? While it is off what will I have access to? I'm sure a lot of cleaning will be in order. Can I do anything with the injectors? Clean them up/out somehow?

 

[Gearhead92]

Since I am allowing more air in, do I have to adjust the fuel ration at all or do anything with/to the injectors?

 

[mikestang63]

Since I am allowing more air in, do I have to adjust the fuel ration at all or do anything with/to the injectors?

Ok.. one you can edit your posts so you are not multiple posting questions.

Two.. I don't see any pics of the intake but there are a couple of things about the swap

Does it have the #5 intake boss drilled and tapped for the IAT sensor
Likewise, if you are going to be running the stock EGR coolant and heating tubes, you either need to get the explorer hard coolant tube or tap the back of the lower intake for the return line bung if you want to transfer over your hard coolant lines, as it uses the lower intake as a return. The explorer hard lines do not.

If you want to clean the injectors, you can either spend money to have them cleaned and balanced, or soak them overnight in some techron or seafoam. If they are the same 19lbers as what you have already and yours are working fine, you can swap yours onto the new intake- replace both upper and lower o rings and inspect for any broken pintle caps.

You do not have to adjust anything for the intake swap. In fact you can keep the same TB, MAF, etc. For cheap upgrades- Get a 94 or 95 GT MAF- it is 70MM vs. the stock 58MM one and is plug and play. All that is needed is the adapter to mount it to the supply side of the intake tube. You can also get a 65MM TB from an explorer and with a quick modification make it work on your car.

For gaskets, get the better Felpro MS93334 set and then the separate Explorer upper to lower gasket 95953

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...334-vs-gt40-ms95952-comparison-lots-pics.html

 

[Gearhead92]

Point taken on multiple posts.....my b.

I posted a picture on the first page.
I will post the others the guy sent me, just give me a bit. I' in the middle of programming.

It comes with the Explorer TB already on it, which I believe is a 65mm(?), so I won't bother searching for and buying a 70mm, not worth the cost.
Also, my car is SD, it is an '88, and I'm not switching to a MAF just yet.

Thank you for the gasket advice, I felt that question popping up soon, not I don't have to ask or do as much research.

 

[mikestang63]

Point taken on multiple posts.....my b.

I posted a picture on the first page.
I will post the others the guy sent me, just give me a bit. I' in the middle of programming.

It comes with the Explorer TB already on it, which I believe is a 65mm(?), so I won't bother searching for and buying a 70mm, not worth the cost.
Also, my car is SD, it is an '88, and I'm not switching to a MAF just yet.

Thank you for the gasket advice, I felt that question popping up soon, not I don't have to ask or do as much research.

just saw the pic. Looks like the #5 runner is tapped. There are no coolant lines and I can't see the rear passenger of the intake so I assume it is not tapped. Your call- either drill and tap the boss back there for your existing hard lines or if you don't have heat just screw in the temp sensor into the opening in the front- looks like that is what he did but pic is fuzzy.

it has stock injectors

that thing looks awful carboned up. I would at a minimum break it down and soak it overnight in some seafoam or better yet buy the bucket of parts cleaner or have a machine shop hot tank it. Same for the TB and EGR, give them a good cleaning . Replace all the gaskets- intake, TB, EGR,. You'll need to swap over your IAC and TPS, and I would replace the FPR while it is off- cheap insurance.. IF not running the coolant lines. cap off the two lines on the EGR. Finally, you'll need to address the vacuum line routing fir the FPR, cannister, A/C, etc. coming off the upper- again buy 10 feet of new hose as cheap insurance..

Jrichker has a good tech article on the explorer install that is very comprehensive.

 

[Gearhead92]

Here are the other pictures he sent. I included the one I already posted as well.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

just restating, if you're truly doing DD duty it needs to be 3.55 - manual, 3.73-Aod , love my 3.55 on the hwy and shifting is very fun on the streets.

 

[Mustang5L5]

You can extend the wiring and put the ACT in the airbox. Not a big deal.

Tapping the boss is not that hard, but that lower is a -BB (later model) Explorer lower and the boss is not as "meaty". So you'd have to be careful. Extending the wiring is simplier.

If it was an early model -BA lower intake, i'd just say drill and tap

 

[FastDriver]

You know there's only a 5% difference between 3.55s and 3.73s. If you're at 1900 RPM in a gear, you'd be at 2000 RPM with 3.73s. It's basically the same gear. Everyone has a different level of tolerance/need for performance. I've had 2.73s, 3.55s, 3.73s, and 4.10s in my various mustangs. All of them were street cars, and I was happy with all of them, too. I do think 3.73s are just about right for most street mustangs, but if I had 3.55s, I'd be happy with 'em, too.

 

[Gearhead92]

It really all depends on when and what I spend the money on. If I get a good deal on one gear set over the other, I'll take it. Right now I'm shifting my focus on the intake I will be working on.

 

[FastDriver]

Quad shocks...no won't make a difference. If your rear end is shifting around that much front to back...you need new bushings.

main shocks...yes...will make a difference.

I recommend hooking up with some local stang owners and taking a ride in their car to see the gear ratios and decide how you like it. For me, I feel like i shift way too much with 3.73's and it leaves me no useable gear on the highway cruising without using 5th. I like to cruise in 4th gear at times. Not possible with a stock 3.35 1st gear T-5 and 3.73's. My drag racing days are over. One of these days, i'll change to 3.27's or 3.55's

See above about 3.55s. I'd recommend at least a drop to 3.27s. This would be much cheaper than my other recommended alternative, which is a T56 with a .5 rear gear. A 3.27 bring a 2000RPM gear down to a little over 1700RPM. A .5 O/D would bring you to a bit less than 1500 RPM. The jump from 4th to 5th in a T56 and then again from 5th to 6th isn't as bad as the jump from 4th to 5th in a T5 or TKO.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

On the hwy, those 3.55's are darn close to 2400rpm around 70mph, that 5% would put it overboard for me on the hwy, 2500+ Plus rpms would suck b@lls, people who do hwy driving KNOW what i'm saying

 

[85rkyboby]

On the hwy, those 3.55's are darn close to 2400rpm around 70mph, that 5% would put it overboard for me on the hwy, 2500+ Plus rpms would suck b@lls, people who do hwy driving KNOW what i'm saying

In overdrive?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I guess my reference point was my '03 GT. It had 3.27s and I loved them. Different power and and engine rpm limit of course, but being at 80mPH at 3k rpm in 4th was perfect for rolling on the throttle and zipping along. You could then ride that gear to 100MPh at the track. If I needed to cruise, 5th gear was just over 2k rpm.

With my 3.73s, It just feels like too much

Persona opinion of course