Honing And\or Boring

jAEded

Active Member
Aug 12, 2013
418
26
39
Cali
Hoping I can get some advice.

I have to pull the engine for a oil pump and probably all new engine bearings. I was getting some oil pressure but not enough.

I am reluctant to have it bored because when I recently did the heads the cross-hatch on the cylinder walls and the wall condition in general was really good. Also if I can keep it a 302, and not a 306, that would be preferable.

My question is, can I just have the cylinders re-honed and install new stock specification pistons\rings, crank and rods? My engine ran pretty good with the stock machining tolerances on the block. Do I have to have it bored over, trued and honed?

If I went with new rotating assemble parts would the engine still need to be re-balanced? They would be stock specification parts.
 
Last edited:
  • Sponsors (?)


If I went with new rotating assemble parts would the engine still need to be re-balanced? They would be stock specification parts.
yes, it would need to be balanced. and if you are putting in a new rotating assembly, you might as well go with a stroker kit, costs will be about the same.

as far as boring/honing, it really depends on what the thing measures. but if its in good shape and still straight (and not already oversize) it is possible just to re-hone and re-ring (most people who do this just reuse they're stock pistons). again though, if youre putting in a new rotating assembly, you might as well get it bored .030 over.

if youre worried more about budget (or class rules) though, i would recommend sourcing an explorer motor, likely 1/4-1/2 the cost of rebuilding the stocker.
 
I agree with the explorer engine idea.
They run damn near forever.
Sell the intake and heads and you may be close to even on the project.

I just don't believe in rebuilding stock engines stock again, especially at home.
 
How low was the oil pressure? I'm just wondering because if the volume and circulation is adequate, and you keep good quality oil in it, you'de be surprised how well it can survive on lower pressure.
 
on the balance, if you are just wanting to rering the bobweight wont change enough to have to touch the balance. however, if you are going to run a completely new rotator it would be dumb not to balance it, and if you are going to go that far run a 28oz assembly. as far as the hone, cross hatch isn't everything. one of the reasons you bore them is to make the cylinders round again. I would check for taper in the bore. if everything looks good I would put it back together and run it if cheap is the target. if you are going to spend $ on it by buying a rotating assembly, or if you cant get a hookup on parts you might as well just buy a shortblock.
 
Last edited: