So my car has had some issues since I got it. After sitting for a few hours I have to give it gas for a few minutes to keep it running otherwise the RPM's will drop <700 and it will die. I took it into the shop and the mechanic replaced the Idle Air Control valve with a stock one. This didn't fix the problem and I think it may be the Mass Airflow Sensor. It has a stock sensor but is running 30lb injectors and a V1 Supercharger. I called the mechanic and he told me it would need a different IAC because of the charger but that sounds like BS to me. He was recommended by my dad but I am not impressed. Anyway, I can see the sensor and it would be easy to replace I just need to know which MAF sensor I need to get. And also will I need a different IAC valve because of the SC?
Engine Question About Maf And Iac Valve
- Thread starter Disgruntled3lf
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We need more info here.
Supercharger
30# injectors
Stock MAF.
So right away, you need a different mAF, but need to know what else is done with the car. Is there a chip or custom tune to account for the 30# injectors? If not, you are probably running pig rich at idle.
Have you run the engine codes, and what do you get?
Any more info on the combo? Who put it together and was a custom tune done on the final setup? Other mods?
I highly doubt the IAC is the issue. Sounds like it might be a parts mismatch somewhere
Supercharger
30# injectors
Stock MAF.
So right away, you need a different mAF, but need to know what else is done with the car. Is there a chip or custom tune to account for the 30# injectors? If not, you are probably running pig rich at idle.
Have you run the engine codes, and what do you get?
Any more info on the combo? Who put it together and was a custom tune done on the final setup? Other mods?
I highly doubt the IAC is the issue. Sounds like it might be a parts mismatch somewhere
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
To run the codes, look in the tech section. Jrichker has a great writeup.
Take some pictures under the hood area and post them. Do you have a FMU? If so, most likely no chip or tune.
I agree it sounds like mismatched parts. Your MAF should normally match the injector size unless you have a tune or a chip to tell the computer to compensate for the difference. If not, what happens is your stock MAF is calibrated by the stock EEC for 19lb injectors, and you have 30lb injectors.. Your A/F ratio as mentioned is going to be stupid rich. Do you see smoke blackish smoke from the tailpipes or are your plugs fouled?
You need to tell us more about the setup though in order to get you some specifics. Find another mechanic in the interim Where are you located, perhaps some other guys here can point you in the right direction.
Take some pictures under the hood area and post them. Do you have a FMU? If so, most likely no chip or tune.
I agree it sounds like mismatched parts. Your MAF should normally match the injector size unless you have a tune or a chip to tell the computer to compensate for the difference. If not, what happens is your stock MAF is calibrated by the stock EEC for 19lb injectors, and you have 30lb injectors.. Your A/F ratio as mentioned is going to be stupid rich. Do you see smoke blackish smoke from the tailpipes or are your plugs fouled?
You need to tell us more about the setup though in order to get you some specifics. Find another mechanic in the interim Where are you located, perhaps some other guys here can point you in the right direction.
What year is your car?
87-88 won't have a functional check engine light. There is no light to flash.
You either need to use a test light, or but a scanner such as this one
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EW0KHW/?tag=stangnet-20
87-88 won't have a functional check engine light. There is no light to flash.
You either need to use a test light, or but a scanner such as this one
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EW0KHW/?tag=stangnet-20
Pull your passenger kick panel off. Look for the computer and look at the end opposite the harness connector. There is a piece of tape that would cover a plug in port. Is there a chip plugged into the computer here?
Possibly dielectric grease.
Looks like there was a chip installed at one point, possibly a custom tune. It's been removed however. Can only speculate why.
Are you sure the MAF is bone stock? Is there an FMU installed in the engine bay? It will look like a round disk.
Looks like there was a chip installed at one point, possibly a custom tune. It's been removed however. Can only speculate why.
Are you sure the MAF is bone stock? Is there an FMU installed in the engine bay? It will look like a round disk.
Grabbin' Asphalt
5 Year Member
I didn't take a pic of the MAF because the numbers tell me it's stock and 55mm. I know it's wrong. But I don't know what I need to do about it. I put up a picture of the injector. It looks red to me and that would mean it's a 30lbs. I put up a picture of the computer and the FMU. I'm unclear how the computer/FMU combination works with bigger injectors.
Here's some info on the FMU
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=30031
I'm going to assume everything is properly set up in terms of fuel management and such for the moment. That would lead me back to #1...running the check engine codes.
You said the light never came on. When you turn the key to ON, does the CEL light up until you start the car? If it does, that confirms the bulb works. With the engine off, if you ground the test plug correctly, you should hear a series of clicks from various solenoids before the light starts to blink.
Right now, i'd focus on running the codes as a priority to get a baseline as to what the car doesn't like. If you need to purchase the $25 scanner i recommended, please do as it's a very important and useful tool to have.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=30031
I'm going to assume everything is properly set up in terms of fuel management and such for the moment. That would lead me back to #1...running the check engine codes.
You said the light never came on. When you turn the key to ON, does the CEL light up until you start the car? If it does, that confirms the bulb works. With the engine off, if you ground the test plug correctly, you should hear a series of clicks from various solenoids before the light starts to blink.
Right now, i'd focus on running the codes as a priority to get a baseline as to what the car doesn't like. If you need to purchase the $25 scanner i recommended, please do as it's a very important and useful tool to have.
I have the scanner ordered and it should be here in a couple days. The light turns on (and is on) but I don't remember hearing any clicks. The ground test just isn't working for me. I used this guide:
http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7908
http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7908
theconductor
15 Year Member
Are those stock headers?!! I'm with the others, no chip and stock MAF is a likely culprit. You may want to check the fmu for proper calibration as well (though it won't effect the idle).
Grabbin' Asphalt
5 Year Member
Yup, No chip & stock maf is no good. You need to match the maf with those injectors then look into fine tuning with your fmu/chip tune for best results.
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