There is more pride in doing it yourself in my opinion. Anxiously awaiting some.progress pics so get to work. Lol
Progress Thread Slow Boat To China
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Garage is done. Gonna tear the motor down tonight and fix the main bearing I put in backward as well as put the stock truck cam back in for now. The cam I have is too big for the PAC 1218 springs and I don't feel like buying new springs again.
Gonna keep it moving for a while til I run out of parts to install.
@tannerc91gt Want a bada$$ turbo cam for your 6.0? .610/.610 113+3 LSA.. Can't remember duration off the top of my head.
Gonna keep it moving for a while til I run out of parts to install.
@tannerc91gt Want a bada$$ turbo cam for your 6.0? .610/.610 113+3 LSA.. Can't remember duration off the top of my head.
Progress!!! uhhh..... Sort of.
A couple of years ago, I hung an I beam in the garage from the underside of the rafters. I hung a trolley and a hoist from that to lift and move motors and such. Unfortunately, it wasn't high enough to lift a motor over the core support of a mustang.
Today, I swiped some leftover joist hangers and 2x12s from the job site and made an opening in the ceiling. Once I finish making the garage structurally sound again, Ill cut the beam down and move it to the top side of the rafters. With this setup, the hoist will be about 2' higher and since I cut out 2 rafters, Ill have 5' of lateral movement with the trolley. Now I can easily and safely put a motor in.
With that said, I'm hoping to have enough saved up at the end of the month of March to buy the turbo. I've decided to order a 1st gen mustang radiator (triple pass) and move it all the way to the passenger side and have a forward facing hotside so the turbo mounts over the core support on the drivers side. It should be easier to brace the behemoth borg this way I think. I still have an old Caterpillar turbo for mock up purposes, so we will see what I can come up with.
The build isn't dead!
There may be more to your setup than this picture shows but....
A little advice on your rafter setup. When you cut those two rafters and supported them by those "beams", you moved the LOAD that the (cut) rafters were once supporting onto the rafters your homemade beams are attached to with the hangers. What did you do to reinforce those rafters that now are carrying way more load than they were originally sized for? They're also carrying the load of the steel I-beam, trolley and attachments, plus motor and trans. You could double/sister those rafters or put a post under them where the beam intersects. Hopefully you fully nailed those beams together. If you were to ever sell your home, you MAY NOT pass a home inspection due to this modification to the STRUCTURE of your home.
In some engineering we underrate the advertised capacity knowing somebody will exceed it a little. i.e, A 300 lb person will try to save a few bucks and buy a ladder rated at 250#. With homes there are extra allowances for seismic, lateral, wind load, snow load etc. However there isn't much play with beams, studs & headers. They are calculated to take only so much load (by local/state codes). In order to "over engineer" studs, rafters & beams it would cost Contractors too much money where as their main goal is profit. You probably work in construction so you should know that. So I don't think you should have the notion of "it can take more than it was originally designed for, that's just how engineers design things".
On another note, the panels are looking real nice and inspire me to possibly do my own when my car gets parked for next winter.
I'm all set on a camshaft, thanks though.
Bummer you can't use it but the cars gonna make some power either way
Not pictured but still to be used are the 4x6" vertical support posts that I'll put back under the rafters once I put a load on it. I framed the rafters similar to how we frame in attic access ladders here on the apartment complex Im working on. The double 2x12 beams are nailed together, and since it's a detached garage, it really doesn't add or detract from the value of the home itself. When/if I move, I'll rebuild the rafters to be like they were originally, with an extra 2x12 nailed on either side of the repaired rafters. Shouldn't be any cause for concern since its just 4 walls and a roof.
I figured you probably had something, but thought Id offer anyway. I'll keep it and swap it back in once I grow into it and can handle more power. Springs are about $225 so it's not like its that big of a deal.
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Dude,.....tell me that you haven't read my story about my old garage w/ the 4x6 beam, and the vertical supports to help reinforce the span???
Do tell!Dude,.....tell me that you haven't read my story about my old garage w/ the 4x6 beam, and the vertical supports to help reinforce the span???
Just be sure to "secure" the vertical supports, after you load the beam w/ engine weight.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...st-thing-ive-done-while-in-the-garage.833745/
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...st-thing-ive-done-while-in-the-garage.833745/
Uhhhmmmm No? Written on here?Dude,.....tell me that you haven't read my story about my old garage w/ the 4x6 beam, and the vertical supports to help reinforce the span???
So I tore the engine down tonight. Turns out the cam is too big, valves kissed the pistons. So I'm going to sell it and put it towards the turbo. And Im about to order new bearings for the crank. Should have the engine together soon and stuffed into the car to start more fab work.
nah, just a little contact. could i fly cut the pistons myself with a spare valve and sand paper?
You could clean them up yourself no problem. I would check the valves that touched though as they are more than likely bent.
I have always used a dremel in the past to cut the pockets in an assembled motor and never had an issue.
I have always used a dremel in the past to cut the pockets in an assembled motor and never had an issue.
What clearance should I cut to? And like your CT says, 'they make new pistons every day, so why worry?'
So now I gotta sell my PAC 1218s and buy 1219s instead of the cam... Ok, I can do that I think....
So now I gotta sell my PAC 1218s and buy 1219s instead of the cam... Ok, I can do that I think....
i would like to see you have at least .060 on the intake and exhaust valves. And for the record, if you do mess this up horribly they do infact make new pistons every day 
I got the dremel tool out with a little wire brush and cleaned the crud off the pistons. The valves were baaaarely hitting. I cut reliefs based on the marks. Should be ok now, I cut more out than I thought id need then hit it with a flap disk to get rid of the sharp edges.
Sounds like a plan! If you want to check the heads, pour some gasoline in the combustion chamber as see if it holds it. If gas comes out the intake or exhaust runner you have a bent valve.
Well... I'm stumped. Put some play doh in the cylinders, assembled the engine, rolled it over a few times and took it back apart. Seems to be the thickness of 2 quarters between the valve and the top of the piston. The ONLY thing I can think of (and it hit me as I was typing this) is I had the timing set on the wrong tooth and I had contact there.
Which makes me feel a little like an idiot, but whatever, it happens. I need to sell my valve springs now and buy the next step up to handle the lift.
Which makes me feel a little like an idiot, but whatever, it happens. I need to sell my valve springs now and buy the next step up to handle the lift.
What are you making posts with that causes there to be commercial links embedded? I just removed link from the words "Play doh" and "valve spring" from your post above. If it's a computer then you have maleware/adware. If it's a free browser of some sort on a mobile device, then it's not on the up and up either. The one for play doh was a link to Amazon and the other was a link to ****.
That's the "insider deal" he made w/ Amazon, and **** so he can afford to build the car.
