Sound Of Air Sputtering On Underside Of Car Towards Exhaust Manifold Area.

sstewart326

New Member
Dec 5, 2013
6
0
2
2000 gt

I recently noticed the sound of air coming from the underside of the stang towards the engine bay. I haven't jacked her up yet so I cannot pinpoint where the sound is coming from. When I'm just driving the car, the sound is not evident. I only hear it if my windows or door is open and the car is idling. It would be tough to hear when reving or driving because the exhaust masks the sound. Mechanically, the car is running great. I had one of my friends plug my exhaust while I listened and the sound did not change; it remained constant. The sound that I'm hearing almost sounds like a steam train (just not as intense).

I have had a manifold leak on my old v6 mustang, and this does not sound like my v6 sounded. For one, the sound of the leak on the v6 would go away once the car warmed up. On my gt, the sound remains even when the car is at operating temperature. Plus, it's less of a clicking noise and more of a sputtering air kind of noise.
 
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so I went on this site http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair/1833626 and my problem sounds exactly like this :

noise: FFFFffff ttttFFFF ffff ttttFFFFffff tttt
WHERE: Under the hood.
WHEN: Most noticeable at idle.
WHAT: An exhaust manifold gasket has failed, venting hot exhaust gases to the air.
URGENCY: It's not getting better on its own. The blowtorch of corrosive gases will eventually damage the manifold. Oh, by the way: Carbon monoxide from the leak may make you drowsy or dead.
FIX: Replace the exhaust manifold gasket before the leak eats a hole in the manifold.


Anyone have there exhaust manifold gasket go bad on them?
 
Might be a great time to upgrade to long tube headers. :nice:
I was thinking the same thing. Now I have an excuse (sort of) to put on some headers. But I need to pass emissions, and correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought long tube headers will not pass emissions. Which comes to another question: are shortys worth it? Right now I just have an H-pipe with some flowmasters
 
I was thinking the same thing. Now I have an excuse (sort of) to put on some headers. But I need to pass emissions, and correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought long tube headers will not pass emissions. Which comes to another question: are shortys worth it? Right now I just have an H-pipe with some flowmasters

What state and county are you in?
 
Gwinnett County Ga right outside of Atlanta


What tests will be performed?
All subject vehicles will receive a three-part inspection:

  • An OBD test to check the vehicle’s emissions control performance history.
  • A fuel cap inspection to check for adequate seal.
  • A visual inspection of the catalytic converter to check for tampering or removal.
All 1995 and older model year vehicles will receive:

  • A TSI test or an Accelerated Simulation Mode (ASM2) test – This dual-mode test includes a 25/25 test (25 percent load at 25 MPH) and a 50/15 test (50 percent load at 15 MPH).
  • A fuel cap inspection to check for adequate seal.
  • A visual inspection of the catalytic converter to check for tampering or removal.
An inspector can reject a vehicle for testing if it is considered unsafe to test. If the test has already begun when the safety problem is detected, the inspector may charge the full price of the test.


Your catalytic converters will have to be mounted in the stock locations. You will be required to have the factory number of converters (even though 3-way are more efficient).

What it all means is that long tubes could be pretty expensive for you. I'd toss on some shorties and put the rest of the cash toward a blower.