Progress Thread Slow Boat To China

What are you making posts with that causes there to be commercial links embedded? I just removed link from the words "Play doh" and "valve spring" from your post above. If it's a computer then you have maleware/adware. If it's a free browser of some sort on a mobile device, then it's not on the up and up either. The one for play doh was a link to Amazon and the other was a link to ****.
Uhhmmm... my laptop. How do I get rid of it? Sounds like having the herp and not knowing it!

Edit* doing a scan now...
 
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@Noobz347 did the sweep and found a couple Trojans.


Along the lines of a car build, I called a valve spring retailer at the suggestion of a guy off a local board to buy the springs I need - Brian Tooley racing. Dude answers the phone, I tell him what I need. He says that wont work if you are running a turbo, but tell me more about the cam. So I give specs.

After a moment of silence, he asks if I bought the cam from ______ name from _______ state. Actually, I did, how did you know? Well, turns out that's the guy that spec'd the cam and ground it. He says I'll be good to 7500 rpm and will have no problem making stupid amounts of power with what I have. The motor it came out of made 4 digit hp at the crank with an S480. little different build than mine, but basic principle is there.

@tannerc91gt Also got confirmation that going to an LS car style intake yields no power gains over the truck. Only benefit is hood clearance. I found that interesting.
 
@tannerc91gt Also got confirmation that going to an LS car style intake yields no power gains over the truck. Only benefit is hood clearance. I found that interesting.
It was my understanding that you actually made a little more down low with the truck manifold the issue was just not making as much power passed. 5k? I think yours being boosted negates some of those limitations and if you're still planning to run the truck manifold I'm all for it!
Check out the guys who've stuck with the truck mani's and cleaned them up.
image.jpg
 
Fwiw, my buddy had an ls in his 78 Chevy farm truck. He used the stock truck manifold a custom cam and stock ported heads. With an 80mm turbo the truck has been 9.0's. He switched to the edelbrock intake and picked up a minimal amount of hp. It looks good but that's about the only difference.
 
Yeah cam and heads seem to make the most difference, mainly cam though. We will see how this holds up, I will not be dumping more money into this motor at all, period.

I have mentally committed to build a 5.0/5.8 R block after this motor is running. I'd like to go back to Ford, albeit more expensive. The LS thing is just for shi ts and grins to see how cheaply I can make 1,000 hp. I wanna do FFW and other ford events, no interest racing IROCs in the mullet nationals.
 
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Yea that's why you've been having issues with valve clearance. You need to use a solid lifter (or convert a hydro lifter to solid) for checking valve clearance. A hydro lifter will compress under the valve spring pressure and mess up your measurement.

I can tell you how to convert a SBF lifter, but I have no idea how those new fangled LS lifters work.

Live and learn, dude! :nice:
 
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Hmm. Well, first thing I think Ill do is ask the guy who specd the cam what he thinks. Then Ill go about getting a solid lifter and checking things out for myself.

Live and learn, indeed!
 
You don't necessarily need a solid lifer, you could simply bottom out a hydraulic lifter. I've even done this to run a few cars back in the day when we couldn't afford the solid roller conversion lifters, lol.. Works like a champ!!!
 
Called Brian Tooley today (apparently he started TEA and sold it) anyway, said under no circumstances will I have PTV issues. Makes me feel a lot better about that!
 
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The last couple of nights, I finished my inner fender panels and wire-wheeled the engine bay of all the unnecessary doo-doo. I am very interested in doing minimal amounts of body work. After using my novice panel smoothing skills and 2 stage paint on the engine bay of the hoopty, I've decided to take a different approach.

Id like to try spray on bedliner or hammer tone paint after doing some light skimming with some body filler. I think the hammertone would be the tits if I carried it over to the valve covers and/or some other pieces on the motor too. Thoughts?
 
The last couple of nights, I finished my inner fender panels and wire-wheeled the engine bay of all the unnecessary doo-doo. I am very interested in doing minimal amounts of body work. After using my novice panel smoothing skills and 2 stage paint on the engine bay of the hoopty, I've decided to take a different approach.

Id like to try spray on bedliner or hammer tone paint after doing some light skimming with some body filler. I think the hammertone would be the tits if I carried it over to the valve covers and/or some other pieces on the motor too. Thoughts?

Bodywork as a means of hiding or at least making a wavy substrate be less so will be time well invested my friend. Take it from the King of having to hide less than acceptable sheetmetal work.
IDK how the inner FP's came out for you, but if you're gonna skim some mud on them in the first place, you may as well do it to at least a certain percentage of what you accept as OK.

I do the same. I'll initially envision perfect as I've seen it in other examples, and strive for that. My problem is by either my inability to get there due to lack of skill, lack of patience, or just a lack of care.......I'll typically accept a percentage of the "perfect plan."

I consider myself a 70-80 percenter.:banana:

You have spent probably what???? 10-15 hours cutting, welding and grinding? Whats another couple of days of sanding gonna hurt in the long run? (besides your hands, your back, and your eyes/nose?);) Even the most textured of paint finishes will not hide an OMG under it, unless you're at the 70-80% of perfect level of complete.
 
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