New Clutch Installed - Still Have To Mash To The Floor For A Clean Shift

If your car has a stock cable, stock quadrant, and no firewall adjuster but feels like the pedal is to low the cable has probably stretched some. Depending on how much the cable has stretched you can most likely remedy your problem by installing either an adjustable cable or a firewall adjuster. If it were me I would do both along with a quadrant. The stock cables and quadrants are known to go when "performance" clutch kits are installed. As far as I know you can not adjust the cable/pedal if everything on your car is factory.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I had this problem when I put a SPEC clutch in my stang. A steeda quadrant, firewall adjuster and adjustable cable gives you all the adjustment you need. Helped me out a lot and I have a much smoother clutch pedal as well. I can move the pedal as high or low as I want depending on how I am going to be driving. The firewall adjuster can be adjusted at any time to fine tune the pedal. I would replace all of it you won't regret it.
 
My throwout bearing was bad, so I replaced OEM clutch with Ram HDX, pilot/throwout bearings, and bearing housing. When I got the car back it shifted like a dream. I didn't have to mash the clutch all the way in for a clean shift. 24 hours later, it still feels like a new clutch but on occasion I have to put quite the effort in making sure the clutch is all the way pushed in - otherwise I can't get it into gear or it doesn't shift that smooth. Keep in mind I just had the new clutch put in yesterday. It still is much better than OEM - day and night. Need to figure out why sometimes I have a really hard time getting it into gear. Seems like 3rd may be specifically tough - but again it's not every time, or maybe I am pushing the clutch in with more and less pressure and that's what is going on.

Does this have anything at all to do with the shifter? I still have an OEM shifter.

I do have an SR clutch adjustor kit that I need to install. Just haven't got to it yet, or know exactly how. I am wondering if this will help? Maybe the quadrant is bad?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.


Just my 2 cents but honestly since I had my trans rebuilt last year and replaced the clutch etc, I've been thru 4 cables already, and I have a BBK adjustable unit. I wish I would have thrown the extra $800 down and got a hydraulic conversion setup. It's a major headache every few months it seems. I never use to have this bad of wear problem but then again I wasn't using the car as a DD as I am now. I get decent smooth clutch action for about a week or 2, and then start feeling the tell tale gnashing or binding that usually means the cable is on its way out again. I have to drop the trans again soon anyhow as the rebuild wasn't all it was supposed to be and have been having issues ever since it was reinstalled namely now the pilot bearing is shot and it feels like the input shift has an issue as well. Good luck on yours after you install the adj cable it might just be a few other issues (trans problems) causing mine to wear so quickly I'm still wishing I would have done the T-56 swap with hydraulic when I had the money and chance
 
Just my 2 cents but honestly since I had my trans rebuilt last year and replaced the clutch etc, I've been thru 4 cables already, and I have a BBK adjustable unit. I wish I would have thrown the extra $800 down and got a hydraulic conversion setup. It's a major headache every few months it seems. I never use to have this bad of wear problem but then again I wasn't using the car as a DD as I am now. I get decent smooth clutch action for about a week or 2, and then start feeling the tell tale gnashing or binding that usually means the cable is on its way out again. I have to drop the trans again soon anyhow as the rebuild wasn't all it was supposed to be and have been having issues ever since it was reinstalled namely now the pilot bearing is shot and it feels like the input shift has an issue as well. Good luck on yours after you install the adj cable it might just be a few other issues (trans problems) causing mine to wear so quickly I'm still wishing I would have done the T-56 swap with hydraulic when I had the money and chance


Do you by chance, have your cable routed near exhaust where it's picking up a bunch of heat?
 
Do you by chance, have your cable routed near exhaust where it's picking up a bunch of heat?
Yeah I guess I should have mentioned I have a few exhaust leaks that are most likely aiding the cables demise.... Ever since I started daily driving the car I cant seem to keep up with the repair list lol it is heat related because you could roast a pig anywhere near my engine compartment or under car on a warm day, moreless a 110,deg scorcber
 
Yeah I guess I should have mentioned I have a few exhaust leaks that are most likely aiding the cables demise.... Ever since I started daily driving the car I cant seem to keep up with the repair list lol it is heat related because you could roast a pig anywhere near my engine compartment or under car on a warm day, moreless a 110,deg scorcber


Try a longer SN95 cable and see if you can route it around the worst places.
 
Try a longer SN95 cable and see if you can route it around the worst places.

It's not so much that the exhaust is in the way, think it's more due to the fact the headers are getting dated and the ball flanges are fairly beat up, as well as the mounts....hence the leaks. I took the car to 5 different exhaust shops one weekend, and with the exception of one renowned shop thats been around awhile, the others couldn't even replace a missing flange stud that had vibrated off, one place the guy spent 3hrs trying....I finally told em to drop the car, I had other places to be. Go figure I picked up some replacement studs and put it on myself at work on a 15min break with the car on the ground....lol