The Lets Find The Vibration Thread !

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Ok so I put my car together as most know it was great I ran it almost 200 miles everything was awesome . Had the car tuned and after the dyno we now have a vibration that comes on about 2200 rpm and up and I get a nasty rattle in the shifter area .

TRANS I had was no good so I put another TRANS in same issues occurring .

car has a ford racing 50oz flywheel on it and a center force dual friction clutch . (All installed previously before rebuild )

50oz Power bond (dayco) 1 peiece sfi balancer .

Stifflers TRANS crossmember - Poly urthane motor mounts , rubber TRANS mount.

I have checked balancer bolt it's tight as well as my crank pulley . ran car and checked in inspection plate and the pressure plate and flywheel do not seem to be wobbling . Drive shaft is tight . Aluminum ford racing .

Driving it's super prominent in first and second especially if you're on it . 4th gear 65-70 you feel it least at around 2k rpm anything less or more it's there .

Drove the car yesterday down shifted into second tacked it up to 3k and held it tbere while slowing the car down but keeping the load the same the vibration feels constant .

I cracked some fan blades and it has a new clutch that comes on hard you can hear it I am wondering if the fan off balance can be causing this I plan on pulling it tomorrow and driving it without it around the block to see what it does .

So talk to me guys !

Here's balancer incase anyone was wondering , sorry this is long winded
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406887512.725494.jpg
 
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Well if you are running an aftermarket shifter that does away with the rubber bushings. Plus you are running stiffer crossmember bushings and polyurthane motor mounts an a rubber trans mount you will have more vibration in the shifter. If every bushing/mount were stock you wouldn't feel any vibration..because the rubber does a great job to insulate. But the stiffer performance stuff last longer and it keeps stuff more in place but it does not the insulate that well so you get more noise/vibration . So long story short performance comes with a price and sometimes it's comfort.
 
Well if you are running an aftermarket shifter that does away with the rubber bushings. Plus you are running stiffer crossmember bushings and polyurthane motor mounts an a rubber trans mount you will have more vibration in the shifter. If every bushing/mount were stock you wouldn't feel any vibration..because the rubber does a great job to insulate. But the stiffer performance stuff last longer and it keeps stuff more in place but it does not the insulate that well so you get more noise/vibration . So long story short performance comes with a price and sometimes it's comfort.
Yes I do agree . the car always had an aftermarket shifter . I think this is a bit more harsh then just a vibration from poly bushings . but swapping the TRANS crossmember is on my list to see followed by the mounts
 
I get a nasty rattle in the shifter area
Driving it's super prominent in first and second especially if you're on it . 4th gear 65-70 you feel it least at around 2k rpm anything less or more it's there .

You didn't say if the vibration occurs while stationary with the engine revved (maybe I missed it).

Anyway, the pieces of your post that are in quotes above, makes me think "U-Joints". With that in mind, I'm sure that you can rule it out or confirm it pretty easily.
 
Mine starts around 12-1500 rpm regardless of whether the car is in gear or in neutral. New mounts, New u joints, aftermarket shifter. Only thing I haven't done is taken the flywheel/ clutch out for inspection.
 
Mine starts around 12-1500 rpm regardless of whether the car is in gear or in neutral. New mounts, New u joints, aftermarket shifter. Only thing I haven't done is taken the flywheel/ clutch out for inspection.
after my experience,sounds like a unbalanced flywheel or flex plate....just a thought though
 
I'm leaning towards the flexplate being unbalanced or perhaps a bolt has worked loose causing uneven rotation. Vibes smooth out around 2200rpm. Whatever it is happens within that window.
 
I'm leaning towards the flexplate being unbalanced or perhaps a bolt has worked loose causing uneven rotation. Vibes smooth out around 2200rpm. Whatever it is happens within that window.


What you're describing sounds more like a harmonic imbalance. If you end up taking it apart again to have something checked, just be sure to clock that piece in an orientation that is different from where it currently sits.
 
You didn't say if the vibration occurs while stationary with the engine revved (maybe I missed it).

Anyway, the pieces of your post that are in quotes above, makes me think "U-Joints". With that in mind, I'm sure that you can rule it out or confirm it pretty easily.
I may have not wrote it lol - There is a very very slight one almost to say that it could be coming from the hard urethane mounts . Thanks guys for the responses so far I am glad I am not the only one . I keep thinking balancer but how could this thing go bad I don't see fluid or anything leaking?

And I thought u joints too friend has a d/s I can use to test but if I am slowing the car down and the vibration remains by me keeping the engine at 3k rpm wouldn't that rule it out ?
 
I may have not wrote it lol - There is a very very slight one almost to say that it could be coming from the hard urethane mounts . Thanks guys for the responses so far I am glad I am not the only one . I keep thinking balancer but how could this thing go bad I don't see fluid or anything leaking?

And I thought u joints too friend has a d/s I can use to test but if I am slowing the car down and the vibration remains by me keeping the engine at 3k rpm wouldn't that rule it out ?
Not if you're moving. U joints are like $10 a piece.
 
Next steps are as follows . going to pick up. a drive shaft to try in the car . after that TRANS out to check for something that backed out
 
Either I am out of my mind or I love waisting money . After the issue @smkshw had I just ordered a brand new ford racing flywheel and dowel pin kit . I have a feeling the d/s isn't gonna change a thing so at that point I will pull the TRANS out and change the flywheel and hope for the best .
 
It's your call..but i would have just changed the trans mount to match the motor mounts and see if it cut back on the vibration. Think about it everything else is stiff and you have that one rubber mount for the trans so when the vibration comes were do you think it goes..to the weakest/softest link the rubber trans mount.