Build Thread My First Notch Build Thread - Remember me?!

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Hey guys I'm just resurrecting my thread to knock the dust off of it. I purchased a few parts recently so I can start making a little more progress. I haven't touched it in a while because my buddy and I have been concentrating most of our efforts on his car that we're doing a Terminator swap on. We had set a deadline to have both cars running by New Years Eve but money will keep me from meeting that deadline with mine but we still have hope for his.

The parts I purchased are not really picture worthy at the moment because it's just the hardware kit for my K-member, UPR caster/camber plates, front coil-over bearing kit, and the lock-down screw for the coil-overs(mine were missing). So now I can put the tubular front suspension on, finish the 5-lug conversion and sit the engine and tranny in so I can measure for the d/s that comes with the tranny installation kit that I ordered with my TKO600. They're just waiting for me to send them measurements so they can send my d/s. My rear suspension is in already. I still have to get a few more parts for the changes I'm making to the fuel system.

I still have a fairly short laundry list of parts I still need to acquire like:
pushrods
clutch kit
shifter
alternator
electric fan
shocks
mufflers
carpet
8-pt roll bar(hopefully)
and possibly Plastidip the car as a temporary paintjob until the real one.

I bought adjustable pushrods but I misplaced them. :doh: I was all set to measure my pushrods and couldn't find that damn adjustable ones. We still have to install the black dash and do the MAF conversion....for now until I get the funds for the Stinger PiMP. So basically I've changed my deadline to have the car running to March 1st so it can be ready for TX2K15(3rd weekend in March).

Hopefully there will be more updates more frequently in the weeks to come. Wish me luck.
 
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Good luck! Lol. Your engine/trans combo are what I hope to do in the next 18 months or so.
It seems to be gaining popularity lately. When guys decide to buy a 8.2 deck Dart block they don't even think about doing a 331 anymore and when they start thinking about doing a 347 they say the same thing I told myself, "It's a dart block, Craig. Go big or go home!!!" So 363 it is. :cool::burnout:
 
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Yup! Especially now with turbos being so popular. Used to be 9.5 deck builds and they still are popular also but if staying 8.2 go big or go home. Lol opening up the cylinder also really unshrouds the valves.
 
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It seems to be gaining popularity lately. When guys decide to buy a 8.2 deck Dart block they don't even think about doing a 331 anymore and when they start thinking about doing a 347 they say the same thing I told myself, "It's a dart block, Craig. Go big or go home!!!" So 363 it is. :cool::burnout:
363 ? who builds those turds! G/ L buddy looking foward to more progress.
 
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I always thought that a 363 was a block killer. 4.125 max bore leaves exactly nothing left to bore out if some unforeseen OMG happens, and causes some cylinder wall scoring calamity. As expensive as the bare block is, and like it has been said earlier, once a wheezer is on there the few extra HP/TQ that could be gained by boring is just a matter of a pound or more boost.

Save the cylinder walls....you may be glad there's something left to bore out one day.
 
I always thought that a 363 was a block killer. 4.125 max bore leaves exactly nothing left to bore out if some unforeseen OMG happens, and causes some cylinder wall scoring calamity. As expensive as the bare block is, and like it has been said earlier, once a wheezer is on there the few extra HP/TQ that could be gained by boring is just a matter of a pound or more boost.

Save the cylinder walls....you may be glad there's something left to bore out one day.
It is my understanding you can sleeve a dart block if needed.

EDIT - Quick search yields me that 4.185 is the tippy tippy max of having a paper thin bore .
 
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I always thought that a 363 was a block killer. 4.125 max bore leaves exactly nothing left to bore out if some unforeseen OMG happens, and causes some cylinder wall scoring calamity. As expensive as the bare block is, and like it has been said earlier, once a wheezer is on there the few extra HP/TQ that could be gained by boring is just a matter of a pound or more boost.

Save the cylinder walls....you may be glad there's something left to bore out one day.
Mike 4.125" isn't the max you can bore a Dart block 4.185 is. So, you can still bore as much as .060 over 4.125.
 
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Well I ordered a few more important parts. Mark VIII fan, Spec stage 3 clutch kit, bumpsteer kit, and Maximum Motorsport braided stainless steel brake lines. The ball is rolling again. Probably won't be turning wrenches on my car for another week or so because we still have more work to do on the Termi-swap on my buddy's car.
 
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*UPDATE*

I finally got some pushrods! Installed them and set my rockers last night. I'll finish closing up the rest of the top of the motor next week. OH....and since I had to take 1 of the heads off for the process of measuring for pushrods I checked how far in the hole my pistons are and I was able to get an accurate calculation of my compression. I'm at 9.77:1 so it may not be as much of a dog as I was originally expecting. :banana:

I also got my bellhousing and a few other brackets powder-coated. I forgot to take pics of them last night so I'll have pics of those next time. I also have to chase the threads for the oil filter adapter and the oil pressure sending unit port in the block. The filter adapter just wouldn't screw in smoothly but I also have to get a large allen wrench to screw it in all the way. But the oil pressure sending unit port has paint in it and the sending unit extension wouldn't screw in past the first thread....the paint is THICK in there. Oh and I ordered my MGW shifter today. :banana:

Well here are a few pics.
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Oh, and I changed the ball joints on my A-arms to 94-95 ball joints. It's so easy when the A-arms are off of the car and you have a press. I've NEVER changed ball joints that quick!.
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Made some progress on MY car finally. We removed the stock front suspension and installed the UPR k-member...no, the a-arms are not in yet. We dropped the motor in last night, not without some grinding on the k-member tho. :O_o: The little nipple on the motor mount didn't go into the second slot on the k-member so this was me last night
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Now, here's my concern about that. I don't know anybody that has had to grind on a UPR k-member just for the motor mounts to fit. So I'm wondering if the k-member is the correct one for the car. This was the only fitment issue I've had so far but I can't deny that I'm slightly concerned. This is not the time to start having problems like this because the car has to be running, tuned and street worthy by March 19th. My whole purpose for the push to get the car done right now is to have it at TX2K15. Anyway, I have a few more pics of the progress.

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Stock front suspension in:
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Stock front suspension out:
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Motor in:
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Hopefully I'll be able to get back over there so I can put the tranny and the headers in.
 
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Ok so I ran into another issue. I installed the flywheel, clutch, and bellh......WAIT A MINUTE!!!! Why won't the bellhousing go all the way on?
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WTF!!!! The flywheel is too BIG????? I swear, if it ain't 1 thing it's something else. :nonono: So I placed ANOTHER order(I ordered about $500 in other stuff earlier that day) with LMR at 12:20am for a new SPEC flywheel. 1 more thing to slow down progress. :mad:
 
I've had a couple of UPR K members, never had an issue like that. Maybe it's the mounts?
Yeah, I've never heard of anybody having this issue with UPR k-members. I already have it set in my mind that I'm going to purchase a UPR k-member from UPR....not somebody selling one on Craigslist. The reason I trusted it was because all the other parts like the coilover parts and spring were UPR so I just assumed it was the mild steal k-member from UPR because its black and that's the color of the mild steal ones from UPR.
 
This shi t is just getting better by the day. Now I have to get a different nut for one of the motor mounts AND 2 of the a-arm bolts because the stock flanged nuts won't fit on this POS k-member.

Not gonna get the nut on that bolt
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Here's the nut next to the bolt
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Oh and I got an email from UPS saying my packages from LMR will be delayed due to severe weather. :mad::nonono::dammit::dammit::dammit:

But I did put my fuel rails and injectors on.
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