Build Thread Bird_dog0347's Frankenstang, sure is nice of us to build a car around the fuel filler door

34PSI is at idle with vacuum lines in tact... I just pulled the vacuum line and put the car in KOEO and saw 38PSI on the FPG. So I guess I'm close to correct on FP? Either way, it still won't idle till the WB starts to actually read the true WB signal unless I keep my foot on it to give it a little gas. I'm sure that's either the tune or the stock throttle body/IAC/TPS?

Oh, and yeah, scotch is my jam... I think we just became best friends!

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Bringing this back from the dead... I got burned out on the car for a while and I'm just getting around to working on it again. So I got my cooling system fixed up I think, SVE radiator, Mk VIII fan and DCC controller along with removing the UD Pullies. I have all the stuff to relocate the battery to the trunk but decided I'd tackle that last. Well... then I crawled underneath to see about running the cables and I noticed that a spot on the rear drivers floorboard that had looked like some rust had set in before was now really bad... like grand canyon bad and this car is a garage/jackstand queen in Texas. Well in preparation a couple years ago I had bought the floorboard panel from LMR knowing I'd have to do it one day and I think that day is today.

I'm gonna strip the interior out and I'll report back. (And the broken pics from PB are on my to-do list...)
 
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So there's the damage from under, here's the damage from inside and why it took so long to rot slowly. Some A-Hole put a fiberglass patch over it. If you're the douche who did this... don't let me #cashyououside!

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Everything you said and described I am going through. I did pick up the soft lines, and I am just getting around to teeing off my original hard line to each caliper hose. On my application I had to remove some metal bracketry where the lines bolt to the framerail. I also had to drill holes in my frame to accept the hose brackets. You should install the springs as is and see how they settle before you cut. I think MM sells just the rear cobra eibachs if you need lowering. Good luck with the swap. I will be following if you post pics, etc.
 
Everything you said and described I am going through. I did pick up the soft lines, and I am just getting around to teeing off my original hard line to each caliper hose. On my application I had to remove some metal bracketry where the lines bolt to the framerail. I also had to drill holes in my frame to accept the hose brackets. You should install the springs as is and see how they settle before you cut. I think MM sells just the rear cobra eibachs if you need lowering. Good luck with the swap. I will be following if you post pics, etc.
Darnit! I replied to the first page again! I assume you got the irs in?
 
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It's already in the garage, just gotta get the rest of the interior out so I can start drilling spot welds and cutting out the rust then I'll weld in the new one instead of using fiberglass.
 
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Yeah, maybe a new floor pan might be called for.

It's already in the garage, just gotta get the rest of the interior out so I can start drilling spot welds and cutting out the rust then I'll weld in the new one instead of using fiberglass.
Too bad about the floor pan. I have a similar issue with rot on my floor pan and I will be following intently!
 
So all the old stuff is cut out, about ready to weld in the new piece after some time fitting it and cleaning crap up. I drilled holes every inch or so to do "spot welds" in the new panel and then will add a few stitch welds along the perimeter after all the spots are filled. I'm planning to do the welds in a cross pattern to keep from warping it. It's all got weld through primer on it now as well. Once it is all done the next step will be to fit up the MM Full length SFCs.

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