Well the intake pipe is just there for mock up purposes... It usually does route to the fender, but I just slapped it on as a short ram to try and start it. It's a kit from American Muscle and has the BBK Adapter to bypass the MAF sensor location. The Fuel Pressure Regulator is brand new, but also the Speedmaster brand so I'm not sure. Also I had no idea the stock ones were good for that much, but I might take off the Speedmaster ones and go back to stock and also upgrade injectors.Please remove that intake pipe and air cleaner and sell it to somebody you hate. They only suck up hot turbulent air. Get a true cold air intake that routes through the passenger fender like the stock unit or get an aftermarket BBK. As far as the fuel leak goes, did you check to see if your fuel pressure regulator is bad? When they go bad they leak fuel and sometimes the fuel goes into the vacuum line. Not sure why you bought new fuel rails but the stock piece works just fine up to 500hp. You're lucky you didn't catch fire!!
Good luck.
Please remove that intake pipe and air cleaner and sell it to somebody you hate. They only suck up hot turbulent air. Get a true cold air intake that routes through the passenger fender like the stock unit or get an aftermarket BBK. As far as the fuel leak goes, did you check to see if your fuel pressure regulator is bad? When they go bad they leak fuel and sometimes the fuel goes into the vacuum line. Not sure why you bought new fuel rails but the stock piece works just fine up to 500hp. You're lucky you didn't catch fire!!
Good luck.
I'll keep that in mind. I'm gonna try and make the ones I currently have work, but if it keeps leaking out and blowing o-rings then I will go back to stop and pick up one of those that you linked.^^^ I agree^^^. I've never heard of speedmaster and wouldn't buy any of their parts. If you want / need an adjustable fpr I would suggest going with a tried and true unit like this.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/kirban-billet-adjustable-fuel-regulator-86-93.html
are you running a mechanical fuel pump? why the eccentric on the timing chain
I took a 102L tub from Home Depot and filled it with regular tap water. You'll need to get some Arm and Hammer "Super Washing Soda". If you're in the state's it's fairly easy to find, if you're in Canada look at Home Hardware. Depending on the size of your container the amount of Soda varies, but I just dump a bunch in and mix it around. You'll need a battery charger that capable of outputting 2 amps. You can also use a wall charger that outputs 12v and 2-5amps. An intelligent battery charger won't work, UNLESS, you trick it into thinking it's charging a battery. If you first connect it to a battery and then use a set of booster cables/allegator clips it should work. You'll need a sacrificial piece(s) of bare metal (rebar, flat stock, angle iron, etc).Explain the electrolysis tank. How you hooked it up, what you used to build it...How long it took to de-rust the parts.
I've got an oil pan that I need to do that to, and rather than use muriatic acid, I'm interested in trying something that wont rust back so fast.
Very cool. Would you mind showing a before and after picture of one of the heads?I took a 102L tub from Home Depot and filled it with regular tap water. You'll need to get some Arm and Hammer "Super Washing Soda". If you're in the state's it's fairly easy to find, if you're in Canada look at Home Hardware. Depending on the size of your container the amount of Soda varies, but I just dump a bunch in and mix it around. You'll need a battery charger that capable of outputting 2 amps. You can also use a wall charger that outputs 12v and 2-5amps. An intelligent battery charger won't work, UNLESS, you trick it into thinking it's charging a battery. If you first connect it to a battery and then use a set of booster cables/allegator clips it should work. You'll need a sacrificial piece(s) of bare metal (rebar, flat stock, angle iron, etc).
Okay, now that you have everything, fill up container with water, add super washing soda, put in your piece that needs to cleaned (you can hang it or support it with wood so that the process effects more of the part). Place your sacrificial metal around the border and MAKE SURE it doesn't touch your part. Hook your negative lead to your part and the postive lead to the sacrificial metal. You can space the sacrificial metal around your part and connect it with 10 gauge wire to speed up the process.
At first the process took awhile because I didn't have a lot of sacrificial metal, but when I added 3 more pieces the process was very quick (1-3 hrs for the head). This time can take longer depending on how big your part is and how rusted it is. I did my harmonic balancer after the head and it was literally in there for 15-20 mins and came out perfect.
You'll want to do this in a well ventilated place or outside. I did it beside my garage door with a kerosene heater pointed at the tub to insure itndidnti freeze. Once your part is out and wiped down you can paint it or just spray some WD40 on it because it's extremely bare metal and will start oxidizing (rusting) quickly.
Very cool. Would you mind showing a before and after picture of one of the heads?