Engine Is DOA- New build- measuring for zero deck?
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It's a shame, all that time and work and didn't last long enough to change the oil, was fun while it lasted. That engine had some unintended abuse, psi spikes, tuning time, kinda like a sacrificial engine.
Franky will ride again,
Franky will ride again,
I work in transportation, brother. Got it from VA to IA for $113.
Honestly though, I dont have any good pics while the heads were off to show you its condition.
Well this engine has been through alot more than that. It was hurt soon after being built wiped the rings, did a rering to get it going and ignored it untill the boost it was never built for finally took It out.
Boss 302 block but $$$, Explorer motor with stock TRWs,
But since this is stangnet....lets overcomplicate things and say go Mexican 302 block and convert It to a roller.
I mean how many mexican blocks have you seen split.....
But since this is stangnet....lets overcomplicate things and say go Mexican 302 block and convert It to a roller.
I mean how many mexican blocks have you seen split.....
tree fidySeriously thinking about a really stout 302/306 with forged pistons.
The money not spent on the stroker kit will pay for the pistons machine work gaskets bearings rings and the custom cam....
Unless I can be swayed otherwise....
- Mar 2, 2015
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A built 5.0 made 600+ horsepower with 12lb supercharged boost.
Your car may be capable of more than you think. If you want to stay below 500 with 10psi i think you'll have to stay 302 or 306.
My car should put out 500 with 6 or 7 psi.
When i hit that curb it felt like 500hp with 2lbs.
Your car may be capable of more than you think. If you want to stay below 500 with 10psi i think you'll have to stay 302 or 306.
My car should put out 500 with 6 or 7 psi.
When i hit that curb it felt like 500hp with 2lbs.
- Mar 7, 2002
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You could machine the block again if it's in otherwise good shape, I know it's not popular, but I'm running .040" overbores in both of the 302s in my Capri Mk II and the Mustang II. The only overheating issues I've had are from discovering that what appeared to be a stock 302 in one of my old Mustang II projects (even had the 2-bbl carb, EGR, cats, stock manifolds and air cleaner) was .040 with flat-tops after slapping all the bolts ons on it and advancing the timing on the assumption that such a stock-looking engine still had 8.5:1 compression.
If you were closer to Texas, I've got a pair of 302 roller blocks, one from a Mustang, one from a T-bird. One needs to be bored, the other still has cross-hatch on the original bores (pulled from a 39,000 mile Thunderbird).
LS Swap?
Meh, when the 308 in ElSuperPinto pukes (and it will, shifting at 6200rpm will split the block eventually)...Sorry tanner I am NOT DOING AN LS SWAP.
A 4.8 LS (road less travelled and I have a soft spot for the 4.8 after 3 1/2 years hot rodding around down in a SWB/reg cab Sierra that had one with bolt-ons and a tune) from a Chevy truck with a bulletproofed 4L60E and a turbo sure do seem mighty tempting...
Went to look at an engine today... had rust in the bores and was .060 over...
So let's talk junkyard explorer engines, same crank as mustang and has forged rods. No problems there, I think the pistons are hyperutectic?
Anyone have the low down on what to expect from a decent low mile block?
So let's talk junkyard explorer engines, same crank as mustang and has forged rods. No problems there, I think the pistons are hyperutectic?
Anyone have the low down on what to expect from a decent low mile block?
- Mar 7, 2002
- 9,432
- 5,380
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Went to look at an engine today... had rust in the bores and was .060 over...
So let's talk junkyard explorer engines, same crank as mustang and has forged rods. No problems there, I think the pistons are hyperutectic?
Anyone have the low down on what to expect from a decent low mile block?
Essentially a used low-mile Explorer pull out is the way to start a budget build these days. Once you junk the truck cam you can't go wrong. If anything, the block and crank from an Explorer will be a little stronger than a low miles pull-out from a Mustang due to work-hardening. (A few old-school guys used to seek out blocks used in trucks, vans, and buses due to this, the most famous being Roger Rager racing the Indy 500 during the "stock block" era running a small-block Chevy built from the block he pulled out of a school bus.)
If you're going to run boost, I'd change the pistons, but people have run boost on hypereutectics before.
Yes I have been abusing my engine, even taught myself how to tune for boost on this engine... it has hyper pistons in it. They will take more than they are given credit for.
However I want bulletproof for this build.
I will try and source an engine to use...
Thoughts on pistons? What type of bearings? Ring package? I don't mind spending a bit of money on the rings and bearings.
The pistons will require a balancing to be done on the assembly right? Let's try and keep the piston cost down around 300$
However I want bulletproof for this build.
I will try and source an engine to use...
Thoughts on pistons? What type of bearings? Ring package? I don't mind spending a bit of money on the rings and bearings.
The pistons will require a balancing to be done on the assembly right? Let's try and keep the piston cost down around 300$
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Need you guys to look at this is it worth the money?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/273087091062
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/273087091062
Looks like stock rods possibly, a decent piston and a better than stock crank. However, the stock crank will generally outlast the block, so I don't see a need in buying another 3" stroke cast crank. Also, most scat cast stuff gets balanced to 28oz, but that out may be unbalanced, so factor that.
Have you taken your stuff to a machine shop yet to see what you need? If you need to rebuild the rods and turn the crank, then I would say that is a great deal versus rebuilding the old stuff. If your stuff checks out and all you need are pistons and new block, not so sure of the value.
Joe
Have you taken your stuff to a machine shop yet to see what you need? If you need to rebuild the rods and turn the crank, then I would say that is a great deal versus rebuilding the old stuff. If your stuff checks out and all you need are pistons and new block, not so sure of the value.
Joe
Nope, looking to build shortblock and do the full swap in one weekend...
My crank has been turned twice already using 20 over bearings now... doubt the crank or rods need much in this engine makes great oil pressure.
My crank has been turned twice already using 20 over bearings now... doubt the crank or rods need much in this engine makes great oil pressure.
6 cylinder,...
Put a 6 cylinder from a 1978 Maverick in it...That'll solve all of your problems.
Put a 6 cylinder from a 1978 Maverick in it...That'll solve all of your problems.
I am bouncing ideas around now.... I really want that I6 4.0 but unobtanium since you have to ship it into the US in pieces....
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