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They are hubcentric with the 70.5mm center bore hole cut out of the center to match the hub size.
Progress Thread '88 GT Hell Horse - All over the place
- Thread starter stanglx2002
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They are hubcentric with the 70.5mm center bore hole cut out of the center to match the hub size.
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I didn't get as much done as planned but was able to test fit the wheel spacers on the car. Yes test fit since the wheel studs are to short, so I will be getting some 3" studs shortly. Here are some pictures of the before and after. The spacing made it flush now.
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Calling @a91what....
I need help with the power supply circuit that I am trying to put together. I want to use the car's 12V ACC (ignition) wire to activate/deactivate the power supply, but also use the same wire to tell the RPi to shutdown once the ignition is turned off over a delayed period of time. The RPi GPIO Pin can't accept the car's 12V power directly and needs to be reduced to an acceptable a 3.3V.
What is the best/safest way to convert the car's 12V ACC (ignition) to 3V for the RPi's GPIO pin?
I need help with the power supply circuit that I am trying to put together. I want to use the car's 12V ACC (ignition) wire to activate/deactivate the power supply, but also use the same wire to tell the RPi to shutdown once the ignition is turned off over a delayed period of time. The RPi GPIO Pin can't accept the car's 12V power directly and needs to be reduced to an acceptable a 3.3V.
What is the best/safest way to convert the car's 12V ACC (ignition) to 3V for the RPi's GPIO pin?
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- Mar 2, 2015
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Noobz was asking if they were like these. I see in the pictures they aren't.
The wheel studs aren't what supports the weight...the ring that sticks out at the end of the hub supports the weight....the lug nuts and studs just hold the wheel on. Without the ring the studs can shear off. Hardened studs may help but you still have risk.
The wheel studs aren't what supports the weight...the ring that sticks out at the end of the hub supports the weight....the lug nuts and studs just hold the wheel on. Without the ring the studs can shear off. Hardened studs may help but you still have risk.
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Noobz was asking if they were like these. I see in the pictures they aren't.
The wheel studs aren't what supports the weight...the ring that sticks out at the end of the hub supports the weight....the lug nuts and studs just hold the wheel on. Without the ring the studs can shear off. Hardened studs may help but you still have risk.
These are essentially what I bought: https://lmr.com/item/MM-MMWS2/1994-04-Mustang-1-4-Wheel-Spacers
I didn't need the hub lip due to the thickness of the spacer. They are only .275", so only .025" (.65mm) thicker than the MM ones above. I still have the hub extending past the spacer for the wheel to mount too.
Are you saying these will not be good still?
Let me dig up the schematic but I think a high side input with a 3v pull up will do what you want. If you look in the ms3 manual they have a plethora of circuits drawn out.
does the ID of the hub bore on the wheels have a chamfer? Does the hub ring actually engage the hub bore of the wheel?
What brakes are those?
What brakes are those?
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Yes it does chamfer on the hub, and is quite a tight fit to the point it chipped the paint on the hub and needed a flat-tip screwdriver to get it to come back off.
I believe the wheel engages on the hub bore, but now will have to double check again this weekend.
Brakes are 05-09 Mustang GT 2-piston calipers on 13/14 Boss/Shelby 14" rotors
@stanglx2002 I think this circuit would work for you, it allows a high side input to trigger the gpio pin.
obviously the lower schematic is the one you would use. The 1k resistor in the diagram is the pull-up for the gpio pin so you will need to find a 3-5v source to use.
obviously the lower schematic is the one you would use. The 1k resistor in the diagram is the pull-up for the gpio pin so you will need to find a 3-5v source to use.
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@stanglx2002 I think this circuit would work for you, it allows a high side input to trigger the gpio pin.
obviously the lower schematic is the one you would use. The 1k resistor in the diagram is the pull-up for the gpio pin so you will need to find a 3-5v source to use.
Thank you for this, but are thinking something like this would be easier. What are your thoughts?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMtUqDgmOWBjgNEw1iqorh0khh8Ih8Kr/kw=
This would work i believe, you would want to do some kind of shunt or transient protection, usually a diode will accomplish this. Maybe @jrichker can shed a bit more light on this one he is far more savvy about this than myself.
Ty this....
You get two 5 volt regulated power supplies with filtering and reverse polarity protection.
@ stanglx2002
Watch out when you specify a part, most of them are surface mount. That doesn't work well with the proto board approach to building a widget. You need thru-hole mount capability to successfully use proto-board construction.]
You get two 5 volt regulated power supplies with filtering and reverse polarity protection.
@ stanglx2002
Watch out when you specify a part, most of them are surface mount. That doesn't work well with the proto board approach to building a widget. You need thru-hole mount capability to successfully use proto-board construction.]
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I wasnt planning on using a board but just soldering the wires directly to the chip. Will this type of chip work?Ty this....
You get two 5 volt regulated power supplies with filtering and reverse polarity protection.
@ stanglx2002
Watch out when you specify a part, most of them are surface mount. That doesn't work well with the proto board approach to building a widget. You need thru-hole mount capability to successfully use proto-board construction.]
The chip is .035"x.028" - very small and has low current capacity - 20 MA - 20/1000 thousands of an amp.
A more practical choice would be an LM78L05 with a TO-92 case. It has 3 leads and is approximately 3/16" diameter and 1/4" long. It will fit nicely inside a piece of heat shrink. It's current capacity is 100 MA or 1/10 of an amp.
See http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm78l.pdf for details
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I really do appreciate the help on this. The only issue with that particular chip is the output voltage is still to high. The GPIO pin on the RPi can only except up to 3.3V. I will keep looking and report back...
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@jrichker
I took your feedback and searched for Through-hole type and increased the Output Current to over 100mA along with my required 3.3V output voltage. I was able to find two chips: the Texas Instruments one can be mounted with the metal tab or the STMicroelectronics looks like it would fit in some heat strink.
What are your thoughts?
Texas Instruments UA78M33 - TO-220-3 Case - 500mA
STMicroelectronics L78L33AB - TO-92 Case - 100mA
I took your feedback and searched for Through-hole type and increased the Output Current to over 100mA along with my required 3.3V output voltage. I was able to find two chips: the Texas Instruments one can be mounted with the metal tab or the STMicroelectronics looks like it would fit in some heat strink.
What are your thoughts?
Texas Instruments UA78M33 - TO-220-3 Case - 500mA
STMicroelectronics L78L33AB - TO-92 Case - 100mA
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The STMicroelectronics L78L33AB - TO-92 Case - 100mA would be the best choice for hiding it in heat shrink tubing. The 100Ma current would be plenty to operate a sensor or data input
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Thank you so much for your help on this. You have been absolutely fantastic!!!!!
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