Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

It sure would be nice if someone made a billet cable end that was packaged with a bearing. You could cut the end off an aftermarket cable and install the billet one. That's the main failure in the aftermarket.... and the cable overheating and locking the cable inside it

Maybe a heat sleeved cable with adjustable end and billet end with a bearing.... Time to buy the mini lathe at harbor freight.
 
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Hey i figured I would ask on here before i called the machine shop to ask their opinion...

Cold idle i get 45 PSI oil pressure, and upwards of 60 at running rpm.
HOT idle i get 25-30 oil pressure, and upwards of 50 at running rpm.

any issues with this? last build made stupid high oil pressure.... this time we loosened up the bearings....

has 10w30 conventional in it right now for the first 'break in' period. I will be going to royal purple 10w30 [at least that what i think i bought]... I usually run diesel oil 15w40 in it, FL heat this oil works well and stands up against blow by gasses well.

Do i have anything to worry about with these numbers?
 
Got the cable...

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I also got a heat shield and sleeved it.
 

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Hey i figured I would ask on here before i called the machine shop to ask their opinion...

Cold idle i get 45 PSI oil pressure, and upwards of 60 at running rpm.
HOT idle i get 25-30 oil pressure, and upwards of 50 at running rpm.
Mine runs about 5 psi lower than yours hot and cold. I run 10W30 semi syn. Valvoline. I've never worried about it. I read somewhere, aprox. 10 psi per 1000rpm is about normal.
 
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I ordered a set of AFR adjustable guide plates to swap in and some spark plug boots/terminals to cut the wires to length.
I am considering building an extra trans with an astro gear set, this way I can actually shift the car aggressively at the track....
Advice/thoughts on a 4 or 6 point cage....

Also I am much faster than my breaks, @Mustang5L5 i dont really want to buy new rims.. I'm 4 lug now with new MC calipers and ss braided lines drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads.
Do I have any options for upgrading past this or do I need to just go 5 lug? If so do you have a cheap option?
Thanks.
 
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Got the new blower pulley in today (2.8") and was met with disappointment... apparently this 'stock' blower had an overdrive pulley on it already. I never measured it and took it at face value...
In short I ride the :tard:

I can't go any smaller with the pulley and am maxed out on the crank.... I guess 10psi is all I get.
 
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Just got back from vaca and wanted to congratulate you on "finishing" the build.
Of course there's bugs to work out but that's normal.
Glad to see I'm not the only one using the passengers seat as a laptop desk.
I've been considering buying a windows based I-pad that I can mount somewhere.
 
Got the new blower pulley in today (2.8") and was met with disappointment... apparently this 'stock' blower had an overdrive pulley on it already. I never measured it and took it at face value...
In short I ride the :tard:

I can't go any smaller with the pulley and am maxed out on the crank.... I guess 10psi is all I get.

I guess that means one of two things...

#1. Your "breaks" just may be up to the task after all.
#2. Since you have no choice now, instead of focusing on adding power, maybe it's time to upgrade your brakes?:shrug:
 
So i broke down and called around today.... ASP can make me a crank pulley whatever size i want with the correct offset for $250... thats not a bad deal.

He thinks a 7.5" crank pulley would fit.... I am skeptical, i have been told to measure the distance i have between the pulleys when i get a chance so we can see exactly what can be made to fit.

IF a 7.5" crank pulley will fit [may as well have it made 8 rib?] then it would be possible to see 18 psi max with a 2.8 blower pulley... i would likely go bigger on the blower pulley to increase belt wrap and slow it down to about 14 psi
 
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Crank pulley is ordered. 8rib
stock = 5.81"
New = 6.81" this leaves .2 between the crank and water pump pulleys.
13psi may still be within my grasp.

Now most of the pulleys on the car are 6rib so why have this one made 8rib you ask? well thats thinking for the future, at some point i may go 8rib and for the $15 it cost to have them put on there i went for it.
 
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Crank pulley is ordered. 8rib
stock = 5.81"
New = 6.81" this leaves .2 between the crank and water pump pulleys.
13psi may still be within my grasp.

Now most of the pulleys on the car are 6rib so why have this one made 8rib you ask? well thats thinking for the future, at some point i may go 8rib and for the $15 it cost to have them put on there i went for it.
How thick is the belt?
 
Only "good" 4 lug brakes I remember finding was a kit from SSBC, and it was over $2K for loaded calipers and front rotors. I believe the calipers were four piston. I also believe I read that the SVO brake upgrade was in fact a down grade in stopping power unless you run whatever the SVO used for an MC. Been too long for me to remember very well now though.
 
With all this talk of big pressure numbers from the M112 and my goals to achieve that end, we breezed past some issues that need to be addressed. The main issue in my mind is the valve train noise, the last thing i need is to bend break or bind something while i am 100 miles from the house...

So to remedy that i bought some AFR adjustable guide plates to install today. I sure hope this fixes the noisiness it is driving me crazy! Of course i will snap some pics along the way.

I also got some plug wire terminals and boots to cut the existing wires to length, I am going to use the yellow wires i got from weapon-x.... not my first choice in color but they will have to do for now. maybe i can hide them with wire loom.... lol
 
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