Do you have a parts list you wouldn't mind sharing? I'm looking to build a similar system for my garage eventually. The only difference is I'll be putting in multiple water traps.Spindles:
Progress Thread Darkfader's 93 Gt Progress - Back to work
- Thread starter darkfader
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
I ordered the RapiAir kit from Eastwood to start, and then a few extra bits directly from RapidAir to complete my design. Each aluminum distribution block has a water blow off. I did three drops, one for the hose reel, one for the work bench, and the third for the blast cabinet/powder coating gun(this drop will have its own regulator). The reel has its own larger water separator, while the other two drops have smaller in-line water filters on the “stretchy” lines. Can’t remember what they are called, but they stretch out to 25’ if needed. That’s pretty much it for now other than all the miscellaneous couplers and fittings to get the lines together.
The RapidAir System is super easy to assemble and deal with. The rest was purchased at Lowe’s, regulators, fittings and reel, etc. Once I start blasting and coating I’ll see if I need to add anymore dryers or separators. But for now, no leaks and everything seems good.
Great job man. Those hoses look like Flexzilla hoses. I really like them, nice and light weight.
The line that came on the hose reel is super light and flexible! Nothing like my old Goodyear lines I used for my nail guns and stuff doing construction. I’m impressed
They look just like a brand name hose called Flexzilla.
The only thing to watch for with them is i find if you step on them by accident while working. They roll real easy.
Pegboard and OSB are done. Just a few small things I still want to do in the garage but that can happen “along the way “. One big thing left is the ceiling, but I had already decided to tackle that next spring. This morning I moved saws and other construction equipment out to the woodworking shop, and figured I could spend a few hours on the car. I removed the rear axle housing and suspension. Then I broke down the housing of all its parts, bushings and bearings. When I get home tomorrow, I’ll wire wheel it and prep it for paint and hopefully get a couple coats on it.
Pics:
Pics:
I’m really pleased with the lack of rust under this car. Just a shot of PB blaster on each nut, and everything came apart nicely. Torque boxes look good too. Housing is ready for a thorough cleaning and some paint.
Additional pics:
Additional pics:
I made a little more progress tonight. A couple grinders and a couple wire wheels took the funk off the rear axle housing and then it saw several coats of satin black. I then prepped the new 31 spline traction-lock by installing the new 3.73 ring gear and pressing the bearings. Finally, I gently hollowed out the original pinion bearing to use as a “practice” bearing while setting depth and backlash. Tomorrow evening I should be able to begin that process. Annnnnnd, the pics:
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Thanks man. Hopefully get the rear end squared away this weekend.
Boosted, turn that frown upside down brother! SFC’s are on my shelf, just haven’t had a chance to get shielding gas for my welder yet, plus I guess the car has to be sitting on all fours to put them in anyway so once it’s back on it’s tires, I’ll get them installed.
Question for the masses, the instruction sheet for the gearing install says to install the original shims and set depth and backlash, then check the pattern. I don’t think there’s any way in hell I’m getting both of those shims in with the new traction-lok. I played around with it some tonight and was able to get backlash in spec using different shims, but how do I know the preload is correct? My pattern in the marking compound was weird too, but I think the marking compound was also junk. I’ll get some more of that ASAP and try again. Any tips on this would be appreciated. Not sure if these pics will do any good, but here’s what it looked like:
I’m sure that wear is too close to the ridge and it looks like a really hard line. I knew this little project was going to be frustrating.
I’m sure that wear is too close to the ridge and it looks like a really hard line. I knew this little project was going to be frustrating.
Continuing on with this rear end setup, the tiny amount of gear marking compound that comes with the install kit isn’t enough. At all. I searched everywhere locally for some more to no avail. After searching the web for possible alternatives, I saw white lithium grease was suggested. Don’t even try it, reading a pattern is impossible. Summit racing sells a half ounce tin for 7 bucks so I ordered it. Being impatient, I decided to try some Prussian Blue. It works. After a lot of math and at least a gazillion disassemblies and reassemblies, I believe I’ve finally got an acceptable wear pattern. See photo below.
Here’s my conundrum: the FSM says backlash spec is .008-.015”. The Ford Racing install sheets say it’s.008-.012”. I’m at .013”. Do I go for final assembly and send it? Even 1 thousandth out? A few mechanic buddies say run it, but it’s not their car. What do you guys think?
Here’s my conundrum: the FSM says backlash spec is .008-.015”. The Ford Racing install sheets say it’s.008-.012”. I’m at .013”. Do I go for final assembly and send it? Even 1 thousandth out? A few mechanic buddies say run it, but it’s not their car. What do you guys think?
- Jul 12, 2017
- 2,408
- 1,381
- 173
Looks
I’m really pleased with the lack of rust under this car. Just a shot of PB blaster on each nut, and everything came apart nicely. Torque boxes look good too. Housing is ready for a thorough cleaning
Additional pics:
Looks just like my car underneath man. I was worried when I had to take my rear seat bolts out for the subframe connectors. They Came out like butter. Your cars just like mine, minus the black stripe.I’m really pleased with the lack of rust under this car. Just a shot of PB blaster on each nut, and everything came apart nicely. Torque boxes look good too. Housing is ready for a thorough cleaning and some paint.
Additional pics:
Had to walk away from the diff while I was figuring out what else I could use for gear marking compound. Decided to loosely install rear control arms in prep for axle housing replacement:
I media blasted the SN-95 spindles so they are ready for powder coating
Then I pulled the front bumper cover and supports off to assess damages. Maybe a parking block was hit at some point because the fog light bracket is fairly jacked. Also the lower rad support is pretty gnarly. Not sure what my plan for that is just yet. I was able to use a ratchet strap to get it back a little but now it’s weak I’m sure. I guess someone tried to tow the car or at least pull it by that. It was bent forward. Grrr
I media blasted the SN-95 spindles so they are ready for powder coating
Then I pulled the front bumper cover and supports off to assess damages. Maybe a parking block was hit at some point because the fog light bracket is fairly jacked. Also the lower rad support is pretty gnarly. Not sure what my plan for that is just yet. I was able to use a ratchet strap to get it back a little but now it’s weak I’m sure. I guess someone tried to tow the car or at least pull it by that. It was bent forward. Grrr
I spent most of the day Sunday and today wrenching on the car. Feels really good to finally be bolting parts on. The differential must have been one of the more frustrating jobs I’ve ever done but after some guidance from an expert, I was able to get it together with a perfect wear pattern and backlash on the tight end of spec. It should run quiet and trouble free. I hoisted the housing back up under the car and begin bolting stuff onto it. The rear end is finished except for final ride height and centering the axle via Panhard Bar adjustments.
Pics:
Pics:
Similar threads
