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I also think those wheels will look good.

As long as your core support brackets are good and thick, I doubt you will be set back by having it removeable. You only cut out the top bar, correct?
Yep, Super flimsy, 20 ga......you can literally twist the thing in your hands. I can't see a purpose for that except to hold the hood catch. ( which I ain't gonna have this time around)
 
Well my ass is bleeding.....I ordered the wheels.
I started the day off having Summit quote them. I wanna use PayPal credit and take advantage of the 6 month same as cash thing they offer when you spend over 100 bucks.

The problem is, Summit isn't set up to allow you to do a custom order. You have to call dude, and tell him what you want, and he places the order with American racing for you. And that means that you cannot use PayPal credit, because it's not an " online purchase"

But the guy was creative, he figures out a way to do it, and within an hour, he calls me and tells me to check my "cart" to confirm the size and back spacing of the wheels he's dropped in there for me to buy.. Total price for all 4 would be 1658.91.

Everything was correct save one thing.....they were the wrong wheels.

So I call dude and tell him I want Magnum 500 style wheels ( Vn500 PN ) NOT the torque thrust style wheel he's dropped in
are-c4058956547_xl.jpg

I have these already,...albeit for the orange and black paint, and the fact that mine are Chinee, and they weigh over twice what this one would.

He says he don't know what happened, and he'll call me back after he gets it fixed.
Which he did.

Only this time, the price is 1980.00. And he can't do like he did with the other set. I'll have to buy the wrong wheels, call him, cancel that order, and have him apply the money against the other set, AND.....ill have to make other arrangements to pay for the 500.0 difference.

I don't have to tell you do I?

:nono: No, said the Monkey Fightin finger.

So..I tell dude to hold off, that I was gonna check another source. Since I've been shopping for these things, I know who to call.

And he says that I can custom order the wheels on their website, and that I can use PayPal credit to pay for them. And, whether I buy from him, or go online and do it, the price will be the same....1633.00 shipped. For one pair of 17x8's, and one pair of 17x11's.

:banana:Hell yeah.

So they're coming boys. One more thing I'm doing to convert the Monster over to a retro version of himself. I think I've got The tail lights figured out, I got the hood and trunk, I just need three more things to make the Monster version of a Cyclone, into a something that Ford might've done in 1978 if I worked on their design team version of a Cyclone.

Which will have all kinds of people scratching their heads.

I need a scoop, I need that wing spoiler, and I need the stripe kit.

I worked on it about 5 hours,..I'm in no hurry. It's raining today, it'll be raining all week. The monster will be ready when he's ready.
 
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I may be wrong,but didn’t at one time,you say you needed a smaller width front wheel to Get the tires not to rub?
When I originally ordered the current wheels, they were straight SN 95 replacements: 17x9's, and 17x10.5's.
I didn't even have a car to put them on. They were the very first thing I bought for the car.
The 17x9's were the problem. I couldn't get them to fit. They hit everywhere.
So I sold the 9's and ordered 8's. After downsizing, the fronts clear.
The wheels I have on the car currently are 17x8's, and 17x10.5's. The new ones are 17x8's and 17x11's. Exact same back spacing.

The fronts will be exact, The rears will be close. They'll stick in an additional 1/4", and they'll hang out an extra 1/4". I think I have the room.
 
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Time for some more of Mike talking to himself.

Today I got paid. So, naturally that also means that today Mike spent some money.

I'm always a Summit guy when it comes to the "big two" speed part retailers. With Atlanta being so close, and guaranteeing an almost consistent next day delivery all the time, Summit is just my go to.

Except this time. Jegs got the money. (Cause Jegs had the parts.)

When you do a simple google search of rear wing spoiler, this thing comes up:
215-fp001.jpg

This is for a B body Chrysler product...( think 70'sDuster, Demon) it's 58" long, 8" wide, and stands about 4.25" high

When you add the words " 69 Mustang" to the search, this thing pops up instead:
215-fprs020km.jpg


It's nearly identical in spec to the Chrysler piece albeit a little shorter, and a couple of inches narrower.

Naturaly, I ordered the Ford version.

I ordered the scoop to finish off the front end. I found a low rise version ( 1.7/8" high) of what will pass as a Bos 429/Cougar Eliminator scoop.
847-10005.jpg

Except this dude is spec'd to fit a Chevrolet pickup.

It'll do pig,......it'll do.

And as a final clue to the uneducated observer that they are in fact looking at a Mercury Cyclone spoiler, I ordered the proof that they were.

755-sk1104blk.jpg

Words stuck on the car telling them that the car they are looking at has to be some skunk works, limited production run, or never released in the South edition 1978 Mercury Cyclone Spoiler.

I can't wait till its done.
 
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Trying to remember your plan. Is the new hood going to be all black, or are you doing the orange with black center section again, or all orange? If its still up in the air, like the car pictured above, I like a body colored hood much more than a big black rectangle that stands out like a sore thumb. The black center section isnt bad, but all black.... If its not up in the air and you've chosen all black stand out like a sore thumb rectangle, then I guess you just get to know my opinion on it like your ol' digital gauges. ;)
 
Trying to remember your plan. Is the new hood going to be all black, or are you doing the orange with black center section again, or all orange? If its still up in the air, like the car pictured above, I like a body colored hood much more than a big black rectangle that stands out like a sore thumb. The black center section isnt bad, but all black.... If its not up in the air and you've chosen all black stand out like a sore thumb rectangle, then I guess you just get to know my opinion on it like your ol' digital gauges. ;)
Nope, I think it's going completely orange this time around. Having those Photoshop'd pics earlier made a huge difference to my way of seeing it.
The hood, the scoop, the wing, and the splitter are all going orange. Even the tail light panel will get the treatment.

I do have to admit, I hate the prospect of having to do paintwork more than anything else I have looming ahead.
 
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Thats exactly why I wondered, lol. Cue paint booth V2.0, this time without the canopy parachute.
The stuff will get painted in the same space that the car sits currently. After it’s running, I’ll back it in and out of the garage to do the body work and paint the pieces. But,...that will be only after I get the space between the garage, and the living area sectioned off.

But I gotta plan for that too.
 
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because it's alabama, and because alabama is a great state ( ignoring the fact that 65% of the population voted for a monkey for president) the weather was equally great today.
I wanted to get a head start on tomorrow, so spent a few hours cleaning, and assessing the damage to the new hood and trunk.
The hood has a pretty good crease on the front, and a really terrible repair at the prop rod location.( they are prone to failing because of a weakness there).
The trunk has rust issues..not bad, but bad enough.
Additionally, the trunk has to be cut, and welded to make it fit the Monster.
IMAG0220.jpg
IMAG0221.jpg
IMAG0222.jpg
IMAG0223.jpg

Ill add more to make sense if the pics after I get home.
 
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May I ask what the process is using the muriatic acid? Is it to kill the rust? Eat out the old seam sealer? Both? Neither?
Completely removes the rust
What he said.

I would have to cut away the inner structure to be able to get at the backside of the trunk skin that is trapped. I was hoping that muriatic acid would eat the rust and show me some bare metal. ( obviously it did)


Whatever happened to the inner structure to make it separate from underneath the folded over outer skin is beyond me, unless it was never that way to begin with. Either way I need to do somethin with it to repair it. The notion of trapping actively rusting metal under a layer of steel bugs me. I wire wheeled the pitting as best I could, and sprayed some rust converter heavy enough to flow down on top. For now.

The hood scoop came Saturday ( I didn't know it was sitting on the front porch) I'll mess with that tomorrow.
I don't know where I'll get a stud gun, I would have to weld screw eyes and rig up a slide hammer to work similarly, but at the risk of having to cut them off and grind the welds back down and making a big mess doing so.

I'm gonna go get the piece of 18ga. tomorrow that will act as the backer plate to mount the new /old tail lights in. I need to get my welding bottle refilled too, but no longer having a pick up truck to haul the bottle in, welding gas companies are not allowing a bottle to be transported inside any car.

I do have to remember to focus. There is so much ahead and each project will take a day at a whack ( or more)...I need to do things that I can call done to save the project from back burner status.
 
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You could use it on the crease on the hood... and the little dent on the trunk lid where it looks like it was closed on something.

Might be able to use it on the next car you build after you sell the monster. :runaway:
 
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