Kenne Bell 2.1 Supercharger for Daily Driver

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I had the following:
1) upgraded to front cobra brakes
2) upgraded most of my suspension (especially the rear - I like maximum motorsports suspension products)
3) Got some wider rims and sticker tires.
4) upgraded my rear diff and axles to 31 spline / torsen (I like turning left and right)

All the above complemented the blower nicely.....I’ve continued upgrading since then too!
 
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Can someone explain how a supercharger can actually have more boost than what you give it on your pulley. Like i read that some guys have a 9lbs pulley but with them running something else as well they have more like 10 or 11 psi. I dont want to have more than 9 because i could possibly blow my engine.
 
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Can someone explain how a supercharger can actually have more boost than what you give it on your pulley. Like i read that some guys have a 9lbs pulley but with them running something else as well they have more like 10 or 11 psi. I dont want to have more than 9 because i could possibly blow my engine.

Superchargers are belt driven air pumps. Everyone’s setup is different: different blower efficiency & airflow, different size/type intake, different intake manifolds, etc. Air pumps increase the flow of air. Increased air flow will increase the pressure in the intake system because the intake system is a fixed volume - the amount of pressure increase is proportional to the flow (resistance & size/volume) of your intake system.

So the bottom line is that psi is not the number to track because it slightly varies between setups and doesn’t fully match with power levels. More time at High RPMs (over 6k on a boosted motor) and too much power breaks motors.
 
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I would look at modular head shop. You can get new cams degreed by them (they set up an adjustable crank gear for you) so when you install them they are perfect. That will ensure max power. Supercharger cams dont really give a big lope because of the lobe separation. They should give a slight lope though.
 
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You will definitely need to look at 91+ octane fuel if you want any real power, boost basically creates more compression, and if you don't up your octane that means knock which causes undue wear (basically cylinder fires before end of compression stroke and unstoppable force meets immovable object) if you get too bad of detonation or are right on the limit of your rotating assembly's power rating you could very well bend a rod, break a piston, blow gaskets, shoot plugs out, etc. (Not to mention when a car knocks really badon one cylinder under power it can feel like hitting a brick wall for half a second.
 
Would anyone know of where to find a 90mm maf sensor because i woke up this morning and saw that american muscle decided they do not want to sell them anymore and i would rather not spend another 100 bucks on their chrome versions. Any help would be appreciated.
 
And also one more thing do you guys think that having a cam with the 9psi boost is to much on stock internals? Because i found a cam that im going to get eventually and was wondering if i have to get some forged internals first.
 
And also one more thing do you guys think that having a cam with the 9psi boost is to much on stock internals? Because i found a cam that im going to get eventually and was wondering if i have to get some forged internals first.
If you're still on stock internals at 9psi, unless you have cobra internals you're on a ticking time bomb already, stock gt rods are rated for 400, Crank's supposedly good to 600, but I'd just go to mmr and get it all forged, might even get lower compression pistons and a stroker crank while you're at it.
 
If you're still on stock internals at 9psi, unless you have cobra internals you're on a ticking time bomb already, stock gt rods are rated for 400, Crank's supposedly good to 600, but I'd just go to mmr and get it all forged, might even get lower compression pistons and a stroker crank while you're at it.
I was told by many people running a 9psi on stock internals with a good tune would be completely fine but what all should i get forged once i decide to do so?
 
I was told by many people running a 9psi on stock internals with a good tune would be completely fine but what all should i get forged once i decide to do so?
It's usually softer on high mileage engines because of blow by decreasing effective boost. As for what you need to consider, start with you transmission, especially if you're automatic. The auto (4r70w) in stock form will give up right next to the stock rods. I would also consider driveshaft upgrade and upgrading to a 31 spline axle/diff setup for safety. You will also want to reinforce the torque box, especially if you're planning on running sticky tires, unless you feel like having your control arms come through the back floorboard. (Yes I've actually seen it before) I would personally also get your suspension in good shape (coilovers or lowering springs at least) to help you control the power.
As for what you should get forged, depends on the power level. You'll at least need rods, and you're best off getting pistons with them, you should probably go for the crank if you plan to really cran crank up the boost but if you're just nudging it up a hair you'll be fine on stock crank for a while.
 
I was told by many people running a 9psi on stock internals with a good tune would be completely fine but what all should i get forged once i decide to do so?

A good tune and keeping the RPMs under 6k will keep your motor intact.

A forged motor, strengthened transmission, and full suspension all will take it up a notch. Most of us don’t have the cash to do it all at once... so getting some power first is a common first move.

It's usually softer on high mileage engines because of blow by decreasing effective boost. As for what you need to consider, start with you transmission, especially if you're automatic. The auto (4r70w) in stock form will give up right next to the stock rods. I would also consider driveshaft upgrade and upgrading to a 31 spline axle/diff setup for safety. You will also want to reinforce the torque box, especially if you're planning on running sticky tires, unless you feel like having your control arms come through the back floorboard. (Yes I've actually seen it before) I would personally also get your suspension in good shape (coilovers or lowering springs at least) to help you control the power.
As for what you should get forged, depends on the power level. You'll at least need rods, and you're best off getting pistons with them, you should probably go for the crank if you plan to really cran crank up the boost but if you're just nudging it up a hair you'll be fine on stock crank for a while.

If his plan is to launch hard at the track and push the limits, I agree. Taking it to the track always carries the risk of breaking things. With spirited street driving the original poster will be fine.
 
How would i go about upgrading my transmission if i want to add more power eventually because yes i have the 4r70w automatic transmission.
Find a transmission rebuild place that works on your type of transmission. They’ll get you on the right track.

And also everyone i have a question. Would it be possible to run e 85 fuel instead of 93 octane? Or should i just run 93

Definitely possible. If e85 is readily available you can get some more timing / hp. You’ll need injectors that flow 30-40% more and fuel pumps / fittings that are e85 compatible (flow more and have components designed for e85).