Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

Well, had a couple hours and that was all with company over and I tried to fire up my 03 GT with a fresh installed ms3pnp. The small red leds were on but none of the larger 4 LEDS would light, and my laptop would not recognize the device (possibly a com port issue, looking at that). I have 60# injex and it turned over and I feel like I heard a few attempts to start of course the base tune had stock injex and I adjusted in TS but couldnt write to device as it wouldnt recognize it. Tech support is out until the 28th. What are those other LEDs besides the small red ones? I couldnt figure out by the manual. Going to try again with laptop and want to see if there is spark with a spark tester. Without being able to calibrate tps and with the wrong injex, I imagine it would have a hard time firing up. I had about 8 cranks worth before battery was low and I had to go back to life stuff. If it has spark at all, that means this thing is working (right?), if it has anything on the plugs as far as fuel, its working. I just havent been able to test spark or fuel. Ive never had a standalone install go bad.
 
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Well, had a couple hours and that was all with company over and I tried to fire up my 03 GT with a fresh installed ms3pnp. The small red leds were on but none of the larger 4 LEDS would light, and my laptop would not recognize the device (possibly a com port issue, looking at that). I have 60# injex and it turned over and I feel like I heard a few attempts to start of course the base tune had stock injex and I adjusted in TS but couldnt write to device as it wouldnt recognize it. Tech support is out until the 28th. What are those other LEDs besides the small red ones? I couldnt figure out by the manual. Going to try again with laptop and want to see if there is spark with a spark tester. Without being able to calibrate tps and with the wrong injex, I imagine it would have a hard time firing up. I had about 8 cranks worth before battery was low and I had to go back to life stuff. If it has spark at all, that means this thing is working (right?), if it has anything on the plugs as far as fuel, its working. I just havent been able to test spark or fuel. Ive never had a standalone install go bad.
I would focus on getting your laptop to connect to the ECU. Without that you are not able to see any of the settings along with making the necessary tune changes for your combo (ie: 60# injectors are not stock). The tune that is flashed to the ECU is setup for a stock combo, so you will have to update the tune for your changes and burn it to the ECU. You can't any of this without identifying the connection issue.
 
Once you have a Tune open within TunerStudio, you can goto Communications\Settings select the proper Connection Type, the most common is RS232 Serial Interface and typically people buy the RS232 to USB adapter. Then, with the cable connected to your laptop and Megasquirt, you should be able to click on Detect, it should give you a list of devices to select from. If it doesn't find anything then most likely the drivers didn't install correctly for the adpater. From here you need to go into your Device Manager and look under ports and see if there is anything with a exclamation sign on it. This will indicate it's not recognized or didn't install properly. You may need to delete it from the Device Manager, unplug it from the laptop, reboot the laptop, once it comes back up, plug it in again and see that corrects it. If not, you may need to re-install the driver again.
 
Once you have a Tune open within TunerStudio, you can goto Communications\Settings select the proper Connection Type, the most common is RS232 Serial Interface and typically people buy the RS232 to USB adapter. Then, with the cable connected to your laptop and Megasquirt, you should be able to click on Detect, it should give you a list of devices to select from. If it doesn't find anything then most likely the drivers didn't install correctly for the adpater. From here you need to go into your Device Manager and look under ports and see if there is anything with a exclamation sign on it. This will indicate it's not recognized or didn't install properly. You may need to delete it from the Device Manager, unplug it from the laptop, reboot the laptop, once it comes back up, plug it in again and see that corrects it. If not, you may need to re-install the driver again.
Going to give it a shot tmrw. Must be connected to main harness, cannot be done outside vehicle correct?
 
Up and running but I cannot get my AEM X series analog output to do anything but put out a straight 5v. Strangest thing. White and brown wires are set up correctly so putting in a ticket to AEM. Anyone had any better luck with another product, the LC2 or something? Would like to try the 14point7 newest one but they arent in stock yet, something down the road maybe. Ive no need of a gauge as Im going to run a tablet, I just took that AEM off one of my bikes for now. Ive had issues with AEM stuff, Ive had issues with innovate stuff, Ive had issues with Daytona Sensors who I used to be a vendor for. Just need something to get me on the road right now.
 
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347stroker afr heads Holley systemax intake,supercharger x-pipe,flowmasters 75mm throttle body stage 1 cam looking ms2 efi looking for a good tune to start with and work up from their any input would be greatly appreciated
Start your own thread, I will need more specifics like what size injectors, what fuel pressure, how much boost are you running, what fuel type
 
Hello everyone, long time no see! Well, I have been able to connect my MicroSquirt in my car LAST YEAR (already!) and was able to start it with the base tune after changing the injectors size to 24# and updating various parameters like the timing etc.
I was able to drive around for 15 miles but after my wheels alignment, kaboum, steering rack oil everywhere, coolant leak from my new water pump, etc... long story short: MS works well but I haven't been able to properly configure it since my car is back AGAIN on jack stands :mad:

Anywaty, I think I have a coolant leak on one my cylinder head so I figured why not remove the heads now that I've changed pretty much everything on the top end last year.... yeah I know I should have done when I replaced my upper/lower OEM intake with my Tmoss GT40 setup.... I was being lazy.

Question: as I'm in the process of removing my heads, I figured: why not remove the EGR since it takes a lot of space and I'm sick of hurting my knuckles when removing my headers and spark plugs. BUT should I configure something in MicroSquirt to tell it that I don't have EGR valve anymore?
I can't get the valve delete plate since my mate lives in CA so I'll ask one of my friends here in Belgium to fab me up something with a 3D printer.

Sorry if I'm throwing my question like this but I'm at work....

And also to @a91what: I'll probably contact you for a remote tuning session in a couple of weeks when everything is done on my side if you're interested (of course we'll need to figure out the time difference :D)
 
Hello everyone, long time no see! Well, I have been able to connect my MicroSquirt in my car LAST YEAR (already!) and was able to start it with the base tune after changing the injectors size to 24# and updating various parameters like the timing etc.
I was able to drive around for 15 miles but after my wheels alignment, kaboum, steering rack oil everywhere, coolant leak from my new water pump, etc... long story short: MS works well but I haven't been able to properly configure it since my car is back AGAIN on jack stands :mad:

Anywaty, I think I have a coolant leak on one my cylinder head so I figured why not remove the heads now that I've changed pretty much everything on the top end last year.... yeah I know I should have done when I replaced my upper/lower OEM intake with my Tmoss GT40 setup.... I was being lazy.

Question: as I'm in the process of removing my heads, I figured: why not remove the EGR since it takes a lot of space and I'm sick of hurting my knuckles when removing my headers and spark plugs. BUT should I configure something in MicroSquirt to tell it that I don't have EGR valve anymore?
I can't get the valve delete plate since my mate lives in CA so I'll ask one of my friends here in Belgium to fab me up something with a 3D printer.

Sorry if I'm throwing my question like this but I'm at work....

And also to @a91what: I'll probably contact you for a remote tuning session in a couple of weeks when everything is done on my side if you're interested (of course we'll need to figure out the time difference :D)
No problem just pm me

nothing will need to be altered to delete the EGR valve... it does nothing right now anyway
 
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Hi, I'm new to this forum. I was sent here from the ford six forum by XECUTE. I have a 200ci engine that I've adapted a 2v head and a megasquirt 2 system. I'm completely new to fuel injection. X said "Go to Stangnet and talk to Steve A91What on the MegaSquirt page. Tell him XECUTE sent you. The base set up for semi bank fire will be similar to what Mike1157 ( now Carmichealangelo) used in 2018 when he removed the turbo on his 250 X flow. Either Steve or Mike will have a default A9L table which can be de fueled to suit your 25% smaller engine."
 

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Hi, I'm new to this forum. I was sent here from the ford six forum by XECUTE. I have a 200ci engine that I've adapted a 2v head and a megasquirt 2 system. I'm completely new to fuel injection. X said "Go to Stangnet and talk to Steve A91What on the MegaSquirt page. Tell him XECUTE sent you. The base set up for semi bank fire will be similar to what Mike1157 ( now Carmichealangelo) used in 2018 when he removed the turbo on his 250 X flow. Either Steve or Mike will have a default A9L table which can be de fueled to suit your 25% smaller engine."
I can help get you setup. Start your own thread and give me some details.
 
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Going to post general questions here, then start my own thread once I have the hardware purchased.

Just re-introduced myself in the Welcome Wagon after a 6 year absence. I'm finally ready to start tuning my 67. Here's the pertinent details:

67 Convertible, T5, 8.8 with 4.10s (have a set of 3:31s from my Shelby that I will probably swap in once I'm up and running).

5.0 from 91 LX, with factory computer swapped in. Computer has some sort of custom tune that donor car PO had done on a dyno. I'm not sure I trust it. As currently installed in 67:
  • 347 Stroker
  • TF heads, 2.02 intake valves, 61 cc chambers
  • TF Street Heat intake
  • 75 mm TB
  • 76 mm C&L MAF
  • F303 cam
  • 10.5:1 flat top pistons
  • EGR delete
  • Accel 30# injectors (ACC-150830)
  • Walbro 255 lph in-tank pump (GSS340)
  • Autolite 3924 plugs .045 gap
  • 2 narrowband 02 sensors (BCH-13942)
  • FPA long-tube step headers feeding Magnaflo 2.5" duals with x pipe
  • 130 amp 3g alternator (SVE-17046)
  • SVE dual fan with Derale 16749 controlloer
  • Ford Racing starter (M-11000-A50)
  • Ford Racing engine harness (from about 5 years ago, don't have the model number at hand, but can find it if needed).
  • Trick Flow fuel rails
I think that's most of the stuff I saw asked for in the thread for baseline info.

Car will be a weekend cruiser/mountain carver/road trip machine. No plans to track it, and I don't need to squeeze every last drop of potential-I'd rather have a more conservative tune that's reliable enough to drive cross country. I have started the car in current configuration, but haven't even timed it yet. I'm not experienced with tuning, and shied away from it in the past, because it seemed complex as hell. After reading the this thread, I've come away with the impression that with a MegaSquirt 3 ECU and support from this site, I can get my car tuned well without having to become an expert in tuning. Not completely plug-and-play, but I don't have to learn a lot of theory--correct?

Now to my questions:

  • What setup should I purchase? MS3Pro, or PiMPxs from Stinger? Looks like the Stinger guy that was on here dropped off about a year ago--is that any reason for concern?
  • On the Stinger site it indicates that the Spartan WB o2 sensor can be installed in place of the current NB sensor. Do I need 2 WB sensors, or will 1 be sufficient? Is the Stinger a good option?
  • Do I need a WB o2 gauge, installed permanently, or can I do without since I'm primarily using it for tuning? Is the Perfect Tune All-in-One that they sell a wise choice?
  • Do I need the ACT sensor and pigtail option that they list on their site? Is it already on my car? The only thing I know of that is not connected on the engine harness is my EGR system, which I've deleted. It's been 5 years since I installed the harness, so I can't remember if there's an ACT sensor on there or not.
  • What else should I consider?
Thanks in advance for the wisdom and support!
 
Going to post general questions here, then start my own thread once I have the hardware purchased.

Just re-introduced myself in the Welcome Wagon after a 6 year absence. I'm finally ready to start tuning my 67. Here's the pertinent details:

67 Convertible, T5, 8.8 with 4.10s (have a set of 3:31s from my Shelby that I will probably swap in once I'm up and running).

5.0 from 91 LX, with factory computer swapped in. Computer has some sort of custom tune that donor car PO had done on a dyno. I'm not sure I trust it. As currently installed in 67:
  • 347 Stroker
  • TF heads, 2.02 intake valves, 61 cc chambers
  • TF Street Heat intake
  • 75 mm TB
  • 76 mm C&L MAF
  • F303 cam
  • 10.5:1 flat top pistons
  • EGR delete
  • Accel 30# injectors (ACC-150830)
  • Walbro 255 lph in-tank pump (GSS340)
  • Autolite 3924 plugs .045 gap
  • 2 narrowband 02 sensors (BCH-13942)
  • FPA long-tube step headers feeding Magnaflo 2.5" duals with x pipe
  • 130 amp 3g alternator (SVE-17046)
  • SVE dual fan with Derale 16749 controlloer
  • Ford Racing starter (M-11000-A50)
  • Ford Racing engine harness (from about 5 years ago, don't have the model number at hand, but can find it if needed).
  • Trick Flow fuel rails
I think that's most of the stuff I saw asked for in the thread for baseline info.

Car will be a weekend cruiser/mountain carver/road trip machine. No plans to track it, and I don't need to squeeze every last drop of potential-I'd rather have a more conservative tune that's reliable enough to drive cross country. I have started the car in current configuration, but haven't even timed it yet. I'm not experienced with tuning, and shied away from it in the past, because it seemed complex as hell. After reading the this thread, I've come away with the impression that with a MegaSquirt 3 ECU and support from this site, I can get my car tuned well without having to become an expert in tuning. Not completely plug-and-play, but I don't have to learn a lot of theory--correct?

Now to my questions:

  • What setup should I purchase? MS3Pro, or PiMPxs from Stinger? Looks like the Stinger guy that was on here dropped off about a year ago--is that any reason for concern?
If you are looking for Plug and Play the stinger is the best option, They have a support forum of there own for customers so I am sure that's where they spend time.
  • On the Stinger site it indicates that the Spartan WB o2 sensor can be installed in place of the current NB sensor. Do I need 2 WB sensors, or will 1 be sufficient? Is the Stinger a good option?
A single WB is a must, with the MS3 running 2 of them makes things easy and allows bank 2 bank fuel trims for optimization. I suggest the Spartan 2 or 3 but the AEM x series is a good canbus option as well.
  • Do I need a WB o2 gauge, installed permanently, or can I do without since I'm primarily using it for tuning? Is the Perfect Tune All-in-One that they sell a wise choice?
You don't need the gauge installed in the car full time, with the spartan you don't even need a gauge at all the WB data will be displayed in the software. It will remain installed and used for EGO feedback.
  • Do I need the ACT sensor and pigtail option that they list on their site? Is it already on my car? The only thing I know of that is not connected on the engine harness is my EGR system, which I've deleted. It's been 5 years since I installed the harness, so I can't remember if there's an ACT sensor on there or not.
ACT sensor is the Air temp sensor, on a HO motor it is usually installed in runner #5 in the lower intake.
  • What else should I consider?
Depends on the overall goals for the vehicle
Thanks in advance for the wisdom and support!
 
Depends on the overall goals for the vehicle
What more info do I need to provide for overall goals? That sounds way snarkier than I mean it to be, but I'm not sure what else to provide--I don't have a specific number for HP or torque, or quarter mile time, or any of that. I was trying to answer that question in advance with this:

Car will be a weekend cruiser/mountain carver/road trip machine. No plans to track it, and I don't need to squeeze every last drop of potential-I'd rather have a more conservative tune that's reliable enough to drive cross country.
 
What more info do I need to provide for overall goals? That sounds way snarkier than I mean it to be, but I'm not sure what else to provide--I don't have a specific number for HP or torque, or quarter mile time, or any of that. I was trying to answer that question in advance with this:
If that's the case then the above is more than enough to get it done.
 
Hey ya'll,
Looking for some advice. First timer with MegaSquirt...first EFI build. Built a few cars over the years, including the Merc in my profile pic.
MS2 PNP V3 1.06 is my software.
Car is an '86 LTD Crown Vic. I'm using the Performance Electronics wideband that uses the Bosch 4.9 sensor.
Engine is a 347. 9.8:1 AFR 165s with some mild work. Heavily ported and flowed Explorer intake, and 75mm TB with BBK unequal length shorties to a full 2.5 inch exhaust with cats and Magnaflows. Accel/MSD distributor with TFI. Custom cam. Card attached. 36 Lb injectors and Aeromotive 11540 pump.
I'm after torque....
So here are my questions... Starting with Idle tuning.
Is there a general suggestion for idle timing for these engines? I verified my base timing at 10 degrees and matched it with the trigger wizard, and I'm still getting the idle oscillation which gets progressively worse until it stalls. The best I've been able to do is after fully warmed, about 775 rpm at 16 degrees.
After reading the setting up literature, I'm learning here and there. I mean hell, it got me to this point.
Any wisdom from the Yodas I heard are on this forum?
I'd really like to be able to just turn the key in the cold, like it was as a stock 150hp box. Idle perfectly with the A/C on or off, and roast a tire here and there.
Thank you in advance.
 

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