Contemplating ditching the PS and AC

All deleting accessories on a street car does is take a quick street car and make it look like a slow ass race car since the two should be held to two different standards.

When it comes to ditching useful factory parts, i just don't get the concept and i'm guessing i never will. Especially for people at a show that i don't even know.
The fact that at a show you could be rewarded for making a car worse not better is just mind boggling to me.

And if working on the car is easier, maybe you rethink the quality of your work in the first place, how often does one need to get under or behind the AC or power steering?
 
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Some wise man on this forum once said...

“don’t put race car parts on your street car”

I guess in the theme of that question, you just need to ask yourself what the purpose of the car is. Is it a race car that gets driven in the street once in a while, or a street car that gets raced once in a while? Once you determine that, it’s up to you to decide the concessions you are willing to make.
 
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To each their own, however, by this standard the Forced Induction guys should take off their superchargers and turbos for a cleaner look. Who needs all that horsepower when you can have an empty engine bay that no one really sees anyway? :O_o: I don't get it....but oh well. Here is one of my engine bays. I will take this cluttered look any day and enjoy blasting my AC cold enough to chill a Coors light at the vent, and one fingered turning through the mall parking lot.

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Now that's balanced out
 
Guys, I think some may have missed the topic of this thread. The op wasn’t asking you to convince him to keep ps or ac. He asked a question about how to do it. All the points made in this thread have been valid. It is easier to turn the wheels with power steering. The cabin is cooler with ac. Not having power steering or ac does make the engine easier to work on. Removing components does make the car weight less.
 
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It's no different than someone coming here and asking how to install "Euro taillights". You are gonna get a lot of opinions, and very few "how to" posts.

If anyone wants to know how to remove/ get rid of, Euro taillights I bet me and many many others will help with extensive details.
 
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Holy :poo:,, some of you guys need to get laid. I have been against taking off AC and PS for decades as well in most cases, but was just looking for ways to clean up the engine a little. Thought I had posted on FEP for a second.
 
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Yes, the car is a weekend toy/show car. I drilled a hole behind the driver shock tower to run most of the wiring through. I did drill a small hole in the driver side inner fender to run the cables for the starter solenoid. I made home made panels to fit over the stock inner fender panels out of 18 gauge sheetmetal that i formed, cut, primed and painted. I then used panel bond to secure them. I am far from being a body guy, but think they came out nice. I decided to keep the MSD box in the engine bay because I kind of like it there. Many people make a bracket and relocate it inside the fender.

I havent decided what I will do with the A/C and PS yet. This car is a weekend toy driven to shows and on sunny days. It will never be sold or daily driven. What is holding me back is the cost- can't see driving 17 x 9 245/45/17's with a manual rack

New front skinnies- no one makes 17 x 4 Cobra R 4 lugs so I would have to get a set narrowed $150 a wheel
New front tires- $300
Manual rack- $200-400 depending if I get stock , flaming river,
Manual steering shaft $125
Brackets. new belt, etc $100

so about $1000 to do it . think I can find a better use for that money/ I could just ditch the AC which would be maybe $100 for the belt and PS relocaiton.. Looked at the Volvo electric PS but that runs about $500-$600 to do it from what I see.

Mine cost me 42 bucks. Pulled off a car in the JY with a bunch of other stuff I bought for that 42 bucks. Had to fabricate a bracket and run switch power, constant power, 80 amp fuse, drill the PS pressure line side to 3/8ths and chamfered with 7/16 bit to remove the sharp edge. Factory hoses hooked right up to it. I run CHF fluid in mine but you could run European or universal Prestone PS fluid. It's cheaper.
 
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pics???
Mine cost me 42 bucks. Pulled off a car in the JY with a bunch of other stuff I bought for that 42 bucks. Had to fabricate a bracket and run switch power, constant power, 80 amp fuse, drill the PS pressure line side to 3/8ths and chamfered with 7/16 bit to remove the sharp edge. Factory hoses hooked right up to it. I run CHF fluid in mine but you could run European or universal Prestone PS fluid. It's cheaper.