Engine Best aftermarket MAF?

[Mustang5L5]

Need to buy an MAF for my combo to get it running with the A9L setup and 30# injector. Would prefer something that will fit in the stock air tube setup.

While I am going MS3 eventually, I just need to get my engine up and running first. Even though it’s temporary I still want a quality MAF.

what’s good these days?

 

[deathb4dismount]

PRO M. They make ones specific for stock airbox but only saw them for 24 and 36 #ers

 

[2000xp8]

I'd probably just use a 75mm pro M bullet.
I typically liked the old metal ones, but i don't see them anymore.
If you wanted one, you may have to buy it used.

 

[Reddevil91]

I have a pro m pro tube that I got in the mix of pro m stuff I bought. I might be willing to let go, since I’m not sure if Ill be using it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

So this one would get the job done?

75MM Bullet Unflanged

The Pro-M 75mm unflanged Bullet is a direct replacement for the 88-93 5.0 Mustang (Fox Body / Third Generation), as well as any other Ford vehicles originally equipped with a 55 or 70mm unflanged Mass Air Meter housing.

www.promracing.com

I'd prefer to buy new

 

[Reddevil91]

So this one would get the job done?

75MM Bullet Unflanged

The Pro-M 75mm unflanged Bullet is a direct replacement for the 88-93 5.0 Mustang (Fox Body / Third Generation), as well as any other Ford vehicles originally equipped with a 55 or 70mm unflanged Mass Air Meter housing.

www.promracing.com

I'd prefer to buy new

Nice I’m with you! but figured I’d offer it since I’m debating on selling it. I am running a pro-m 80 now on the car. Actually I might keep it around since I do plan to go blower at some point and I’ve heard that blow through style is better for the forced induction application. I’d just have to send it to pro m to have it recalibrated for my injectors.

 

[KRUISR]

MAF without additional tuning (for now). I am a C&L guy. I would go with a 76mm with a Green tube (I know, not what C&L charts say) and will still fit in stock air box.

 

[Dan02gt]

I would also recommend the ProM Bullet. If you’re going to stick with Mass Air for your aftermarket setup then buy directly from ProM and opt for the more detailed calibration sheet. It will help with dialing in your setup.

 

[2000xp8]

I've had a lot of meters, all pro M, pmas, and pro flo (which i think were all done on the same flow benches).
None have ever let me down.
I'd be most inclined to buy it straight from Pro M. Looks like they have a list of questions to answer and the price is the same as anywhere else.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

What I like about the C&L meters is they are calibrated for the stock electronics. I am running a new Delphi insert (a high quality, OEM supplier). If it goes, the inset from the original meter (or any one a parts store can get while it’s on the road) should work fine.
That cannot be said to the BBK meters that looked great, but had to be clocked, and three failed after too few miles. With the adapter, tech support would not/could not tell me what the electronics were from.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I like the idea of getting a Pro-M with the 30-point transfer function sheet.

Originally I was going to ditch the MAF completely once I go to the aftermarket ECU, but if it can be used and make tuning easier then perhaps I will go that route. What do you think @a91what


Initially the MAF and A9L would just be to get the car up and running and work out bugs. The car doesn't even need to run well, i just want to make sure the motor is good to go, i can get the cooling system all set up, and charge the AC and get that functional. Once that's all squared away i'll wire in the MS3x

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I like the idea of getting a Pro-M with the 30-point transfer function sheet.

Originally I was going to ditch the MAF completely once I go to the aftermarket ECU, but if it can be used and make tuning easier then perhaps I will go that route. What do you think @a91what


Initially the MAF and A9L would just be to get the car up and running and work out bugs. The car doesn't even need to run well, i just want to make sure the motor is good to go, i can get the cooling system all set up, and charge the AC and get that functional. Once that's all squared away i'll wire in the MS3x

I have not been planning on a MS_ system to replace the A9L, so that might make a difference. How much extra is a Pro-M lately?
When I was first on here, which meter was a big, hot debate.

 

[Mustang5L5]

It's $260 for a brand new, plastic body 75mm MAF with the 30-point MAF transfer table (9-point is standard for $210).

I'm running a 65mm TB and likely won't change my combo any more, so 75mm should be plenty for my needs

 

[KRUISR]

Are you N/A or with a blower?

 

[Mustang5L5]

N/A.

 

[KRUISR]

Just wondered why the 30's for NA, especially with a 65mm TB. I assume this is not a race car, likely a spirited cruiser. I realize with the MS you can tune it to work, but for a cruiser its like putting a 750cfm carb on a stock 302.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Because I had a brand new set of Ford 30#ers already on hand and figured the MS would be able to tune around them fine. If not, I’ll adjust.

Optimizing it for the A9L isn’t really what I’m trying to accomplish. I just need it to run well enough to iron out kinks.

 

[Dan02gt]

Because I had a brand new set of Ford 30#ers already on hand and figured the MS would be able to tune around them fine. If not, I’ll adjust.

Optimizing it for the A9L isn’t really what I’m trying to accomplish. I just need it to run well enough to iron out kinks.

You’ll need the 30s for your setup. I had 24s in my NA H/C/I setup and the tuner told me I was at the danger level above 4500 RPMs.
I run Deka 80s now on the tuner’s recommendation. Not because of the need for that much fuel but because they are apparently a very tunable injector. I’m running the stock A9L with a Moates Quarterhorse btw.

 

[a91what]

I like the idea of getting a Pro-M with the 30-point transfer function sheet.

Originally I was going to ditch the MAF completely once I go to the aftermarket ECU, but if it can be used and make tuning easier then perhaps I will go that route. What do you think @a91what


Initially the MAF and A9L would just be to get the car up and running and work out bugs. The car doesn't even need to run well, i just want to make sure the motor is good to go, i can get the cooling system all set up, and charge the AC and get that functional. Once that's all squared away i'll wire in the MS3x

I set my M112 blower project up with a maf on ms2, was easy to tune with. I am a big fan of a properly setup maf system on MS, I will be using maf\sd to tune my current project

 

[WhiteCobra95]

I wouldn't recommend buying a MAF tuned for injectors, espeically anything larger than 24s if your ECU is calibrated for 19s. You need a MAF which is set to measure the estimated air mass flow rate for your engine, plus a margin of safety (+20% to 30%), and the flow vs. output voltage calibration sheet to go with it. Then you need a means of updating the MAF transfer function in your ECU along with the injector flow rates. This will solve a lot of the typical driveability problems people have when upgrading injectors and MAFs. MAF sensors with shifted flow curves to correct for the increased injector flow rates is a hack solution, and it becomes more un-workable the further you get away from the base injector size in your ECU. The best solution is to recalibrate the ECU with the correct data for the components installed. I hate to see you waste money on a questionable work-around when you've put so much time and attention into everything else that you've done with your car.