65/66 courtesy lights

jws66m

Member
Oct 5, 2018
47
7
18
Utah
Working on wiring and have a few parts off so I can't test. The under dash courtesy lights. Are those turned on by the light switch? And is that the same for the rear console lights?

Thinking about tying them into door switches but not use lights in the doors.
 
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66-courtesy-lights-jpg.jpg


Here you go...its a fairly simple circuit...one I am in the middle of duplicating myself(re-wiring the car from scratch) It takes fused power, runs it through the headlight switch(not sure why? do they not come on if the lights are on?) and to each bulb in the circuit. If you choose to remove the door courtesy lights it won't affect the rest of the circuit.
 
66-courtesy-lights-jpg.jpg


Here you go...its a fairly simple circuit...one I am in the middle of duplicating myself(re-wiring the car from scratch) It takes fused power, runs it through the headlight switch(not sure why? do they not come on if the lights are on?) and to each bulb in the circuit. If you choose to remove the door courtesy lights it won't affect the rest of the circuit.
That's right. The interior courtesy lights are turned on by turning the light switch to the left I believe. The door lights are activated by the switch in the door when opened.

What year you re wiring? I have couple wire looms I need to sell. Going different direction. Have engine gauge wiring (gauges not warning lights) and heater wiring for 3 speed switch. I have a 2 speed. Bought wrong loom. Brand new never used in packaging. Bought from CJ a while back.
 
That's right. The interior courtesy lights are turned on by turning the light switch to the left I believe. The door lights are activated by the switch in the door when opened.

What year you re wiring? I have couple wire looms I need to sell. Going different direction. Have engine gauge wiring (gauges not warning lights) and heater wiring for 3 speed switch. I have a 2 speed. Bought wrong loom. Brand new never used in packaging. Bought from CJ a while back.

That can't be right. The diagram shows the door courtesy lights on the same circuit as all the other courtesy lights. If the headlight switch turns on the regular courtesy lights, it also turns on the door courtesy lights(assuming the car is wired correctly) The door switch also turns them on when the door is open. Conspicuously absent from the diagram is the dome light, but I would assume it runs on the same circuit as the courtesy lights.

Factory harnesses do me no good. I am wiring from scratch and not even using bullet-type connectors except for things like door switches and glovebox switches where I have no choice. Where I do need connectors, they are all weatherpack connectors or Deutsche. I have quite a few circuits on top of what the factory had anyway for things like extra power ports, extra gauges(9 gauges currently, none factory), extra courtesy lights, etc...which means I would just chop up the wiring to modify it anyway, better to start from scratch with better wiring to start with.
 
66-courtesy-lights-jpg.jpg


Here you go...its a fairly simple circuit...one I am in the middle of duplicating myself(re-wiring the car from scratch) It takes fused power, runs it through the headlight switch(not sure why? do they not come on if the lights are on?) and to each bulb in the circuit. If you choose to remove the door courtesy lights it won't affect the rest of the circuit.
Those are the rear courtesy lights on pony models. here is the drawing that shows it. I figured it out. Wire 53 is switched by the light switch and will also turn on door lights. But wire 54 is a constant power for when the doors are opened. Doors are wired to both, console courtesy are only when switched. Thanks

And I get it. I'm doing a combo of both. Just my gauges are wired by me. the rest of the looms are oem for ease.

I can't figure out how to post the schematic i have. if you message your email I can email it to you if you want.
 
Pony or not, rear courtesy lights or not, all are on the same circuit(the optional rear courtesy lights as you can see are modular, disconnecting through a bullet connector if you don't have them...or using a different sub-harness, same effect), all courtesy lights run through wire 53. 54 is is only power feed for the door switches, it must be hot-at-all-times because it also feeds the glovebox switch/light and the console cubby light(didnt even know consoles had a lighted cubby, but evidently so from the diagram and it has to work exactly the same as the glovebox switch...only on when you open it). I am willing to bet turning the headlight switch to the left manually bridges to 54 to 53, bypassing the door switches. I am not sure what "to console courtesy lights" means in this diagram since I wasn't aware the console has any lights aside from the cubby light which is on circuit 54....unless they mean overhead console(AKA dome light) courtesy lights....but where it says "to console courtesy lights" will get power at the same times as the rest, since its circuit 53 too.
 
The Green wires in your diagram are battery hot all the time. The blue wires to the lamps are only hot when the door(s) are open and/or the headlight switch is rotated all the way. The power has nothing to do with pushing or pulling the headlight switch. Ford uses switch power for dome/courtesy lights where each light has a dedicated ground.

GM has constant power to the lights and switches the ground at the door switch and headlight switch. Many aftermarket harnesses use GM style wiring and headlight switches so that is why I mention that.
 
The Green wires in your diagram are battery hot all the time. The blue wires to the lamps are only hot when the door(s) are open and/or the headlight switch is rotated all the way. The power has nothing to do with pushing or pulling the headlight switch. Ford uses switch power for dome/courtesy lights where each light has a dedicated ground.

GM has constant power to the lights and switches the ground at the door switch and headlight switch. Many aftermarket harnesses use GM style wiring and headlight switches so that is why I mention that.
I agree...pulling and pushing the switch only bridges the tail lights, headlights, and parking lights(parking lights turn off once headlights are all the way on). I have been wiring my courtesy/dome light/map light circuit in duplication of the mustang circuit myself(with the exception that the map light circuit also has a hot-at-all-times wires to bridge to when the button is pressed, otherwise it will just feed from the courtesy light door/dash switch)