Brakes Am I flaring my brakes the wrong way?

[Mustang5L5]

Worst case scenario,

you can buy the entire line from the firewall union to the rear connection point for the axle.

Steel

ZIN8701OM- 87-93 Ford Mustang Intermediate Brake Line; w/ Sub-Frame Connectors; Steel

Intermediate Brake Line For 87-93 Ford Mustang w/ Sub-Frame Connectors Steel. Our Intermediate Brake Lines are the lines running from the front of the car to the back feeding your rear brakes. These lines will run along your chassis all the way back to the rear brake drop hose. All lines come...

www.sstubes.com

Stainless here

ZIN8701SS- 87-93 Ford Mustang Intermediate Brake Line; w/ Sub-Frame Connectors; Stainless

Intermediate Brake Line For 87-93 Ford Mustang w/ Sub-Frame Connectors Stainless. Our Intermediate Brake Lines are the lines running from the front of the car to the back feeding your rear brakes. These lines will run along your chassis all the way back to the rear brake drop hose. All lines...

www.sstubes.com

 

[opihinalu]

Worst case scenario,

you can buy the entire line from the firewall union to the rear connection point for the axle.

Steel

ZIN8701OM- 87-93 Ford Mustang Intermediate Brake Line; w/ Sub-Frame Connectors; Steel

Intermediate Brake Line For 87-93 Ford Mustang w/ Sub-Frame Connectors Steel. Our Intermediate Brake Lines are the lines running from the front of the car to the back feeding your rear brakes. These lines will run along your chassis all the way back to the rear brake drop hose. All lines come...

www.sstubes.com

Stainless here

ZIN8701SS- 87-93 Ford Mustang Intermediate Brake Line; w/ Sub-Frame Connectors; Stainless

Intermediate Brake Line For 87-93 Ford Mustang w/ Sub-Frame Connectors Stainless. Our Intermediate Brake Lines are the lines running from the front of the car to the back feeding your rear brakes. These lines will run along your chassis all the way back to the rear brake drop hose. All lines...

www.sstubes.com

Good to know. I would have to remove the fender liner to access that area correct?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Good to know. I would have to remove the fender liner to access that area correct?

Yes. I installed this particular line, and the new lines in the engine bay to the front wheels. Wasn't tough to do really.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

here ya go. this covers it.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpT3jEnmmRs

That guy uses that tool regularly. My older plumbing relative was not even that fast on copper water lines. Impressive.
And a little “copper” (water proof plumbing) grease on the copper line while flaring goes easier. Something appropriate to the fluid intended to be used in the car should also make things easier.

 

[Mustang5L5]

This thread motivated me to go try some flares on my tool with some scrap line. I still suck.

I’m using this tool. No, that’s not anywhere close to what I paid for it.

*discontinued* IMP.2000-FS, FLAREPRO™ Flaring & Swaging 4-in-1 Imperial Tool

FLAREPRO™ FOUR-IN-ONE FLARING & SWAGING TOOL For copper, aluminum, steel, stainless steel and other metal tubing. IMP.2000-FS Individual size jaw sets are used for positive clamping compactness and operating convenience. Socket head screws are provided for clamping the jaws to the yoke and...

www.shopnewmantools.com

 

[opihinalu]

This thread motivated me to go try some flares on my tool with some scrap line. I still suck.

I’m using this tool.

*discontinued* IMP.2000-FS, FLAREPRO™ Flaring & Swaging 4-in-1 Imperial Tool

FLAREPRO™ FOUR-IN-ONE FLARING & SWAGING TOOL For copper, aluminum, steel, stainless steel and other metal tubing. IMP.2000-FS Individual size jaw sets are used for positive clamping compactness and operating convenience. Socket head screws are provided for clamping the jaws to the yoke and...

www.shopnewmantools.com

No, that’s not anywhere close to what I paid for it.

And I thought my 40 dollar flaring tool was expensive…

 

[General karthief]

Practice bending the lines too, ask me how I know.

 

[manicmechanic007]

That picture you showed at the first of this thread
The first part of the flare where the line forms a diamond shape getting ready for the 2nd
Looks like to me would have worked but you took the line out too soon (didn't get it smashed all the way)
When you do this on both flare procedures you need to make it a positive smash
Means go all the way down with the threads until they bottom out
You are in the middle of the car with the union removed so you should have plenty of line to work with
Keep trying
Good luck

 

[opihinalu]

Can you buy a short lenght of tubing off Amazon or local parts store and practice with it?

The Niccopp stuff supposedly flares nice, but it looks like you are flaring a cut OeM line there. The kinks and bends probably aren’t helping vs a fresh clean line to flare

How do I straighten a line?

 

[General karthief]

Practice

 

[opihinalu]

Practice

Lol. But for real? Is there a tool or something? I worry that the line isn’t flaring correctly because it isn’t completely straight

 

[General karthief]

Lol. But for real? Am I a tool or something? I worry that the line isn’t flaring correctly because it isn’t completely straight

fix'd

 

[Mustang5L5]

I don’t think you can to be honest, but I’m not sure it matters. Have you practiced on a few straight lenghts of line?

If you really think about it, none of this arrives straight, and yet should be flarable.

4LIFETIMELINES 25 ft 3/16 inch (4.76 mm) Copper Steel Flexible Brake Line Replacement Tubing Coil, 0.028 inch (0.70 mm) Wall Thickness Amazon product ASIN B07WTQMX2HView: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WTQMX2H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XX357MBJW94HXNCV669S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[opihinalu]

I don’t think you can to be honest, but I’m not sure it matters. Have you practiced on a few straight lenghts of line?

If you really think about it, none of this arrives straight, and yet should be flarable.

4LIFETIMELINES 25 ft 3/16 inch (4.76 mm) Copper Steel Flexible Brake Line Replacement Tubing Coil, 0.028 inch (0.70 mm) Wall Thickness Amazon product ASIN B07WTQMX2HView: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WTQMX2H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XX357MBJW94HXNCV669S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Alright then I am just lost at this point. I am using my Capri 3/16 flaring tool that claims that it can give a perfect flare in minutes, which is also agreed upon in the reviews. I bought a roll of 3/16 steel line to practice on and I can’t even get that to work. I feel like I’m missing some big simple step or something that I can’t seem to find…

 

[evintho]

I've been watching this thread and I can see you're struggling with this task. I thought I'd run out to the shop, take some pics and show you how I do it. This is the kit that I use.......
Amazon product ASIN B00AOTBVJQView: https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-165-Master-Flaring/dp/B00AOTBVJQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=B5NJS22BY1YH&keywords=cal-van+master+brake+flaring+kit&qid=1640573211&sprefix=cal-van+master+brake+flaring+kit%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-2


I had some spare 3/16" NiCopp tubing laying around so I used that. Granted, NyCopp is softer and more easily worked than steel tubing but it shows you the general principle for brake line flaring.

Here's the instructions that came with the kit......

First, install the line into the clamping base and slightly chamfer the edge with a fine file to remove any burrs on the outside.....

Next, slightly ream the inside of the tubing to remove any burrs there. My kit comes with a deburring tool.

Then slide the tubing close to where it needs to be and postion the 3/16" adapter flat against the clamping base. Now slide the tubing in or out until it aligns with the first step of the adapter. Firmly tighten the clamping base.

Spray some WD40 inside the tube and on the threads of the clamping base, then insert the adapter.

Place the hex yoke over the adapter and screw it to the clamping base. Hand tighten only. Hand thread the flaring screw into the hex yoke until it bottoms out.

Now tighten the flaring screw with a wrench until it won't go anymore.

Remove the hex yoke/flaring screw and adapter. Now you have the first flare of your double flare.

Reinstall the hex yoke/flaring screw without the adapter this time.

 

[evintho]

Tighten the flaring screw until it won't go anymore.

Now you have your double flare! Hope this helps.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Tighten the flaring screw until it won't go anymore.

Now you have your double flare! Hope this helps.

Thanks for the demo of this style of tool.
Can a uneven thickness of walls or hardness in the steel tubing be giving him fits?

 

[opihinalu]

I've been watching this thread and I can see you're struggling with this task. I thought I'd run out to the shop, take some pics and show you how I do it. This is the kit that I use.......
Amazon product ASIN B00AOTBVJQView: https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-165-Master-Flaring/dp/B00AOTBVJQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=B5NJS22BY1YH&keywords=cal-van+master+brake+flaring+kit&qid=1640573211&sprefix=cal-van+master+brake+flaring+kit%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-2


I had some spare 3/16" NiCopp tubing laying around so I used that. Granted, NyCopp is softer and more easily worked than steel tubing but it shows you the general principle for brake line flaring.

Here's the instructions that came with the kit......

First, install the line into the clamping base and slightly chamfer the edge with a fine file to remove any burrs on the outside.....

Next, slightly ream the inside of the tubing to remove any burrs there. My kit comes with a deburring tool.

Then slide the tubing close to where it needs to be and postion the 3/16" adapter flat against the clamping base. Now slide the tubing in or out until it aligns with the first step of the adapter. Firmly tighten the clamping base.

Spray some WD40 inside the tube and on the threads of the clamping base, then insert the adapter.

Place the hex yoke over the adapter and screw it to the clamping base. Hand tighten only. Hand thread the flaring screw into the hex yoke until it bottoms out.

Now tighten the flaring screw with a wrench until it won't go anymore.

Remove the hex yoke/flaring screw and adapter. Now you have the first flare of your double flare.

Reinstall the hex yoke/flaring screw without the adapter this time.

Tighten the flaring screw until it won't go anymore.

Now you have your double flare! Hope this helps.

Thanks a lot for that. That kit looks interesting and looks like it might work better for my application I am hesitant to but I might buy it off Amazon though that would be the third flaring tool kit I had bought at this point. Have you flared steel lines with this kit? What about lines on the car? I have quite a bit of room so I don’t think space would be much of an issue.thanks again for the demo. I will consider that kit.

 

[evintho]

I have flared 5/16" steel fuel lines with that kit. Had to crank down on the wrench a little more 'cause steel isn't as soft as NiCopp but the flares came out nice. Work slowly and methodically. Take your time. Have good lighting. You can also buy just the 3/16" Cal-Van flaring tool for a little cheaper than the master kit........

Cal Van Tools 161 3/16 Automotive Inline Flaring Tool

Buy Cal Van Tools 161 3/16 Automotive Inline Flaring Tool with an everyday with fast and free shipping everyday! JB Tools

www.jbtools.com

 

[90sickfox]

That's the type of flare I use all the time on factory and aftermarket metal lines. The only thing I do different is after taking the burr out of the inside of the line I also do the outside edge. I put a very small chamfered edge on it. A file can do this too. It helps the line bend inwards for the first stage.