Good battery upgrade?

AbhorrentSpecies

Active Member
Jun 14, 2020
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Las Vegas
So I'm just curious, I'm upgrading my alternator to the 3g with all new wiring and what not. Should I also upgrade my negative and positive cables on the battery? And what is a good battery to put in? Or will it even be necessary to change the battery? It still starts fine, just dies fast as :poo: if you run anything without the car started. Also, I have subs and electric fans. But no a/c.
 
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Here is my opinion,
the battery cables and starter cable, from the factory, is 'just enough' to carry the load on a normal system, the starting system was updated, I think, around 90-91 or so to a different starter, more better, with that in mind, factor in that up grade. You didn't post what year your ride is so it may already be there, in my thread (there is a link in my signature) I noted my upgrade, I don't have any added electrical stuff but the electric fan may be in the future . I recommend one size larger battery/starter cables, the 3g upgrade requires better ground wires also covered in the tech forums for that upgrade, remember on the 3g upgrade there are factory wires that are not used. Very important.
Now as far as battery is concerned, the factory size (cc amps/volts) in my opinion is just fine for most upgrades like the 3g alt. When you start adding amp usage you should do the math to make sure your alt is up to the task when the engine is running at idle and the battery when not running, with big systems that are used when the engine is not running sometimes a second battery is added. Prolly not the case here.
All that said, the battery size from the factory should be fine as long as the charging system is up to the task, as for battery brand, keep in mind there are only a couple actual battery manufacturers, I use Interstate batteries mostly because they have given me hats and signage for my garage and we stocked them at the shop.
This is my opinion and not based on any real automotive electrical experience. Also my car has not caught fire in years :cautious:
 
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Here is my opinion,
the battery cables and starter cable, from the factory, is 'just enough' to carry the load on a normal system, the starting system was updated, I think, around 90-91 or so to a different starter, more better, with that in mind, factor in that up grade. You didn't post what year your ride is so it may already be there, in my thread (there is a link in my signature) I noted my upgrade, I don't have any added electrical stuff but the electric fan may be in the future . I recommend one size larger battery/starter cables, the 3g upgrade requires better ground wires also covered in the tech forums for that upgrade, remember on the 3g upgrade there are factory wires that are not used. Very important.
Now as far as battery is concerned, the factory size (cc amps/volts) in my opinion is just fine for most upgrades like the 3g alt. When you start adding amp usage you should do the math to make sure your alt is up to the task when the engine is running at idle and the battery when not running, with big systems that are used when the engine is not running sometimes a second battery is added. Prolly not the case here.
All that said, the battery size from the factory should be fine as long as the charging system is up to the task, as for battery brand, keep in mind there are only a couple actual battery manufacturers, I use Interstate batteries mostly because they have given me hats and signage for my garage and we stocked them at the shop.
This is my opinion and not based on any real automotive electrical experience. Also my car has not caught fire in years :cautious:
I have an 89. So I guess my ground and positive battery cable may need replacing? The OE size is a 58 battery with 550 CCA, but I read a couple people suggesting a 65 because it has about 750 CCA.
 
Did you buy an aftermarket alt.? Because I only know of the 3g alt. Coming in 95,100,and 130 amp.
It's been awhile since my upgrade but I did follow the tech write up from here and it's been fine, and I run elect.fan,HID headlites.
 
Did you buy an aftermarket alt.? Because I only know of the 3g alt. Coming in 95,100,and 130 amp.
It's been awhile since my upgrade but I did follow the tech write up from here and it's been fine, and I run elect.fan,HID headlites.
Yeah, that's what I meant, 130. It already comes with everything you need. All I was curious about was whether I should get a battery with more CCA and should I upgrade my wiring for the battery and starter.
 
If you're going dead running a lot of stuff you need a battery with more reserve capacity also, I have a stock size NAPA battery that is 750 CCA and 120 min. reserve capacity and I have electric fans as well as the 3G alt. and never had issues. Battery cables are 2 gauge.
 
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I used Welding Cable sourced from Mcmaster


Of course, you'll need to crimp your end terminals on however. Usually this requires a specific tool to make solid connections.
 
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As far as batteries I just got a stock one from AutoZone with 3year free replacement, I listen to my radio every morning for about 10-15 mins. with engine off, no issues.
 
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I used Welding Cable sourced from Mcmaster


Of course, you'll need to crimp your end terminals on however. Usually this requires a specific tool to make solid connections.
What size end terminals did you use?
 
Anyone know the stock length of the negative and positive battery cables? As well as the correct size terminals? I don't need the battery terminal ends just the connector size for the ground and the end that connects to the solenoid. I found some cables online for like two bucks per foot and they attach the connectors for you.
 
I get all my battery cables/ends/terminals form these guys.....

Quality stuff at cheap prices! The best part is their shipping. No matter how much stuff you buy.....$3.97 flat rate!
Yeah, that's where I was looking. I just don't know the rough length, of course I could get more to be safe and just cut them. More importantly I don't know what size those ring terminals are?
 
What size end terminals did you use?

My setup it sort of custom. I eliminated the starter solenoid and did a distribution block inside the fender.

I used these lugs. I had the crimper, then added some solder with some heat shrink.



I used PA performance battery terminals and then those lugs at the connection to the distribution block, the alternator, my alternator fuse, and where my grounds connect to the block and replaced that rear engine strap with a 4ga wire.


All good suggestions here. Many ways to skin this cat.
 
My setup it sort of custom. I eliminated the starter solenoid and did a distribution block inside the fender.

I used these lugs. I had the crimper, then added some solder with some heat shrink.



I used PA performance battery terminals and then those lugs at the connection to the distribution block, the alternator, my alternator fuse, and where my grounds connect to the block and replaced that rear engine strap with a 4ga wire.


All good suggestions here. Many ways to skin this cat.
Yeah, I have those PA performance battery terminals too. So I just need the size of the ring terminals for the solenoid and the ground.
 
The factory cables are fine performance wise. Now if they are frayed or corroded, I would change them to factory replacement cables. The gauge of the factory cables is more than adequate. As far as the battery, it has nothing to do with the alternator. I had Optima batteries back in like 1992, before they were even sold for cars. I like the Optimas, and the modern tech, but to be honest, nothing works as well on a daily driver as a regular factory style Nickel Cadmium. Don't get wrapped around the wire about the brand of the battery. There are only like 3 companies left that make nicads for cars, and every store just slaps their sticker on them.

Kurt
 
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