Drivetrain Clutch stopped working and went soft

  • Sponsors (?)


The cable should be fine
It was working before the mishap
The clutch pedal would not return if the cable was frayed
Look at the cable housing in between the header tubes in post 20. The inner cable looks good, but the outer cable looks fubar. At least I don’t remember it looking like that last time I changed one. Some kind of fluke occurred.
 
Is there any way I could tighten the cable and see what happens? How do you tighten it with the firewall adjuster?
From the first pic in post 19, it might appear the adjuster is turned so it is pulling the cable out already. If it isn’t, you can try to turn it out tighter there.
But your outer cable looks fubar, and if it helps, it will be a short lived repair.
 
  • Agree
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
So I just tightened the cable using the firewall adjuster (turned it counter clockwise) as much as I could. The pedal now feels somewhat stiff again but I started up the car and with the car running I could not push the shifter into any gear but reverse which made a grind noise. I am able to move the shifter when the car is off however but I could do that before anyway.
 
So I just tightened the cable using the firewall adjuster (turned it counter clockwise) as much as I could. The pedal now feels somewhat stiff again but I started up the car and with the car running I could not push the shifter into any gear but reverse which made a grind noise. I am able to move the shifter when the car is off however but I could do that before anyway.
Get a new cable. Any brand is better than what is there now. Keep it away from the headers.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Get a new cable. Any brand is better than what is there now. Keep it away from the headers.
Yea I went ahead and ordered a steeda adjustable cable. In the future maybe I’ll switch to the MM once they come back in stock. I called them and he said he didn’t know how long it would be.

Is it normal for a cable to just go like that? Could something else have caused this or could I have been driving the car too hard?
 
Yea I went ahead and ordered a steeda adjustable cable. In the future maybe I’ll switch to the MM once they come back in stock. I called them and he said he didn’t know how long it would be.

Is it normal for a cable to just go like that? Could something else have caused this or could I have been driving the car too hard?
Its probably been going for a long time, it finally went.........
 
  • Agree
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Just took off the old cable. It wasn’t snapped but something definitely happened since it’s all broken at the end. Check out the pic. One other thing I noticed. The quadrant was missing a cotter pin on one of the pins that it slides on and both pins did not have any sort of spacer on them. The quadrant was just able to slide to the side. Is it supposed to have a spacer to keep it from sliding?
 

Attachments

  • 592C5DDF-D30F-4AF6-9214-C682E9C5E0C7.jpeg
    592C5DDF-D30F-4AF6-9214-C682E9C5E0C7.jpeg
    375.9 KB · Views: 59
  • AC938005-E9FA-4D19-9A4F-439AABED7A8A.jpeg
    AC938005-E9FA-4D19-9A4F-439AABED7A8A.jpeg
    278.9 KB · Views: 53
  • 6D2E033A-0D8E-4253-8196-BA4ED250683A.jpeg
    6D2E033A-0D8E-4253-8196-BA4ED250683A.jpeg
    389.5 KB · Views: 57
One thing I noticed now was that my clutch fork rests near the middle of that rectangle hole. When I look at videos of people removing their cable I see that theirs rests near the end. Could this be an indication of something broken or is it normal? At that middle point is where it likes to rest if I try to push it to make it look like the other picture now that the cable is off it’s completely loose.
 

Attachments

  • B267626A-6CB7-447F-BD9B-40925DED9120.jpeg
    B267626A-6CB7-447F-BD9B-40925DED9120.jpeg
    388.1 KB · Views: 51
  • 34BA3FE5-1857-4896-B44F-3C455620827D.jpeg
    34BA3FE5-1857-4896-B44F-3C455620827D.jpeg
    237.6 KB · Views: 53
My friend had a 1987 GT he bought new. When we replaced the clutch, we did TOB, flywheel, disc, pivot stud, pivot arm, clutch cable and quadrant. All Ford Motorsport items. T5-Z also installed. The clutch was a stiffer unit, and after a few weeks the clutch acted like your clutch does. The clutch pedal lever under the dash broke where it was welded around the round bar. When it was replaced, the new Ford part was an updated piece with more metal around the clutch pedal assy. We never thought about that item coming apart, but the heavier pedal and high mileage (188,000 miles, highway car) the factory item failed. After replacement everything worked as normal. The factory update was made around 1989/1990. It may not be your problem but keep this in mind when putting a HD clutch in a FOX body.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
My friend had a 1987 GT he bought new. When we replaced the clutch, we did TOB, flywheel, disc, pivot stud, pivot arm, clutch cable and quadrant. All Ford Motorsport items. T5-Z also installed. The clutch was a stiffer unit, and after a few weeks the clutch acted like your clutch does. The clutch pedal lever under the dash broke where it was welded around the round bar. When it was replaced, the new Ford part was an updated piece with more metal around the clutch pedal assy. We never thought about that item coming apart, but the heavier pedal and high mileage (188,000 miles, highway car) the factory item failed. After replacement everything worked as normal. The factory update was made around 1989/1990. It may not be your problem but keep this in mind when putting a HD clutch in a FOX body.
Any chance you have that ford part #??