Progress Thread 95 2-Top Cobra Build Thread- Never ending

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That's a nice setup, but how's the visibility from the seated position? I feel like my left arm would block my view of it if it were me.
It is somewhat out of view, but I can peek through the wheel spoke and see it right by my left knee. For more important gauges, I would have done it in the center vents or opted for a triple pod. I will really only be checking this one periodically for the water/meth low level light and to make sure it is spraying for diagnostics. Otherwise it will be set it and forget it so I wanted it out of the way and out of view. Not a huge fan of super out there gauges like the clock pod versions, feels tacky to me. I will be sure to grab pics when it is installed even though the pod will be empty for a few months.
 
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That being said I plan on running primarily distilled water, maybe just 10-20 percent methanol. I’m not going to push the car by leaning it out and more timing. I will have a slightly more aggressive timing table with low IATS but otherwise I will have it setup like there is no water meth injection that way if something in the system fails no harm will be done. With a primarily water mixture, I will get the cooler charge temps without making the car run rich from the methanol.
Im thinking you’re going to be spraying way to much water. I am curious to see how this works out for you though .

Right now I run 80 / 20 - dist wAter .

No matter what the mixture is going to richen you’re still injecting supplemental fuel . Meth does cool as it is atomized especially in the combustion chamber . On the race car idling in the shop with no radiator on M1 the intake will condensate and frost as it atomizes . I don’t take the heat soaked IAt sensor as law knowing what this stuff does for us in the race car . It’s still cooling in the combustion chamber as it’s burned .

I have 2 660 nozzles on my car
 
Im thinking you’re going to be spraying way to much water. I am curious to see how this works out for you though .

Right now I run 80 / 20 - dist wAter .

No matter what the mixture is going to richen you’re still injecting supplemental fuel . Meth does cool as it is atomized especially in the combustion chamber . On the race car idling in the shop with no radiator on M1 the intake will condensate and frost as it atomizes . I don’t take the heat soaked IAt sensor as law knowing what this stuff does for us in the race car . It’s still cooling in the combustion chamber as it’s burned .

I have 2 660 nozzles on my car
Are you running pre and post blower nozzles? I also planned on using my stock windshield reservoir due to space restrictions in the engine bay. I am not opposed to running a different mixture, especially seeing the success and power you have made on the 80/20 safely. I'm assuming you are mixing your own mixture of VP meth and distilled?
 
From top to bottom I have the ABS version, SEM “saddle tan” PLA version and unpainted PLA. I will be sticking with my newest model with the integrated clip and print in ABS. The surface finish is more high quality and it will be more resistant to heat. I ordered some proper saddle tan paint from LMR to get a better color match for my other interior pieces as well.
*Pictures won’t upload for some reason, will edit and add them in

View: https://i.imgur.com/Z98HFXL.jpg

Z98HFXL.jpg
 
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That being said I plan on running primarily distilled water, maybe just 10-20 percent methanol. I’m not going to push the car by leaning it out and more timing. I will have a slightly more aggressive timing table with low IATS but otherwise I will have it setup like there is no water meth injection that way if something in the system fails no harm will be done. With a primarily water mixture, I will get the cooler charge temps without making the car run rich from the methanol.
If you’re doing water meth, just do a 50/50 mix and pull fuel to compensate. You can get away with adding at least around 3* of timing depending on what boost level you’re at, sometimes more. You can do pre and post compressor wheel if you want, but either one works well if you just want to stick to one or the other. I usually just recommend post.

I buy a 5 gallon pail of m1 and distilled water and mix it myself, then add a couple drops of red food coloring. Make sure you mix it by WEIGHT as the meth weighs less than water.
 
If you’re doing water meth, just do a 50/50 mix and pull fuel to compensate. You can get away with adding at least around 3* of timing depending on what boost level you’re at, sometimes more. You can do pre and post compressor wheel if you want, but either one works well if you just want to stick to one or the other. I usually just recommend post.

I buy a 5 gallon pail of m1 and distilled water and mix it myself, then add a couple drops of red food coloring. Make sure you mix it by WEIGHT as the meth weighs less than water.
My worry with pulling fuel to compensate for the richer mixture from the meth is if the system fails, I will then be under boost and lean. The timing worries me less as it will be based upon the IAT, so if the system fails and IATs rise, the timing will be retarded to a safer level. For injection site, I am planning to tap the section right on the discharge outlet of the Vortech where the curve is.
1663681951060.png
 
My worry with pulling fuel to compensate for the richer mixture from the meth is if the system fails, I will then be under boost and lean. The timing worries me less as it will be based upon the IAT, so if the system fails and IATs rise, the timing will be retarded to a safer level. For injection site, I am planning to tap the section right on the discharge outlet of the Vortech where the curve is.
1663681951060.png
I haven’t kept up with this thread, but what are you tuning it with?
 
Moates chip stock computer tuned by Ted Jenkins
Oh, ok. I was reading yesterday about a guy using the mr freeze setup from anderson. It’s pressurized by the blower boost so it’s almost failsafe. The electric w/m pumps tend to be pretty robust for the most parts, but anything can happen.
 
Oh, ok. I was reading yesterday about a guy using the mr freeze setup from anderson. It’s pressurized by the blower boost so it’s almost failsafe. The electric w/m pumps tend to be pretty robust for the most parts, but anything can happen.
Yeah these systems are pretty reliable but it only takes going lean once. I’m not looking for a street monster so if I have to sacrifice some power for safety I’m totally okay with that. For a single nozzle, would you recommend the 375 or 660?
 
Yeah these systems are pretty reliable but it only takes going lean once. I’m not looking for a street monster so if I have to sacrifice some power for safety I’m totally okay with that. For a single nozzle, would you recommend the 375 or 660?
Definitely the 660
 
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Are you running pre and post blower nozzles? I also planned on using my stock windshield reservoir due to space restrictions in the engine bay. I am not opposed to running a different mixture, especially seeing the success and power you have made on the 80/20 safely. I'm assuming you are mixing your own mixture of VP meth and distilled?
Both are post blower .

Yes just vp m1 and distilled water
 
@TOOLOW91 I know you drive your car on the street a lot; how much meth do you go through?
Hard to say , if I take it out and beat it a bunch maybe 1/8-1/4 of a tank every 60 ish miles . I’ve only filled it from almost empty once since winter . I topped it off from 3/4 of a tank once so far this summer after that
 
If you take the size of your tank, and divide it by the flow rate if your nozzle that will give you the active time before the tank goes dry. You’ll find it’s a pretty decent amount of time unless you’re running a tiny tank
 
Hard to say , if I take it out and beat it a bunch maybe 1/8-1/4 of a tank every 60 ish miles . I’ve only filled it from almost empty once since winter . I topped it off from 3/4 of a tank once so far this summer after that
Are you using a separate reservoir or your windshield reservoir?