Dumped the Mach 460

I swapped out my Mach 460 completely on my 94GT... alot of work but well worth the reward. you can take all the wiring harnesses, amps and speakers out and just wire in your own with ease.

I have a Kicker 10L7 in a ported box (Marine grade wood) with a Kicker DX350 mono amp and a 4 channel zx460 mounted to the back and all the necessary precut Lighting audio gauge wiring if anyone is interested. all you need is a deck and your own interior speakers to complete this. PM me for pictures and offers. all low hour stuff kept in top condition. I would put it in my 04GT but I plan to race the car more than cruise. the box fits perfectly under the rear deck once the Mach speaker box is removed. you have to take the rear seat out to put the box in the car so its impossible to steal without having hours to do so.
 
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the person who owned my 94 before me did that. took the two rear amps out and ran a 4 channel to all the speakers. they hacked the factory wiring out back all up and the system never sounded right. alot of alternator noise through the speakers. If you were to run all new wires from the amp to the speakers it would probably sound much better.
 
1fast03pony said:
i think the stock 460 system is pretty good for a factory system

cant complain.
:stupid: I like my Mach 460 'cuz it's theftproof-NOBODY wants it! :nice:

Earlier this year I bought a new factory CD player for $250.00. Not cheap but my stang's a vert and no one has ever cut my top, jimmied my locks, or broken glass to get to the stereo.
 
2001 Geee T said:
Well the head unit at least. It was eating CDs so I had it fixed and then a month later started doing it again. So I just got a JVC CD deck with MP3 capabilities put in.

At first when I got it home it sounded like crap and had no power behind it. Then I was told the Mach amps and the JVC internal amp were both being used and causing it to sound like that. I wish they would have told me that before installing it! So the had to redo some wiring or put in a different harness to use the Mach amps only.

Now it has the power back but I still think the original deck sounded cleaner. Could it be that the Mach amps just suck? Or maybe the speakers?

How did you wire your JVC to the mach amps? Via the rca preouts? I have had great luck wiring my aftermarket head units High Voltage preouts to the Mach amps via the the small square harness that sends the signals to the mach amps. They sound clean and haven't had a problem since 1997. As long as you get a headunit with at least a front and rear set of RCA preouts, you should be good to go.
 
+1 on the link.

WillDuhhBeast, here is a fun one for you:

I am audio ignorant. My passenger side door speaker sounded like it blew out around 20k miles. So I replaced the speakers in both doors. After installing, both of em sounded like ***t for a little while. The drivers side seems to be ok, but no bass like the system had when I bought the car (used to be able to feel it on my leg). The passenger side sounds like crap again, like it is being overdriven with bass. I would like a complete custom setup at somepoint, but not soon. Any idea what my problem is? Is it the amps? The headunit? I am sure if I replace the door speakers again, same thing will happen. TIA
 
02_TruBlu said:
+1 on the link.

WillDuhhBeast, here is a fun one for you:

I am audio ignorant. My passenger side door speaker sounded like it blew out around 20k miles. So I replaced the speakers in both doors. After installing, both of em sounded like ***t for a little while. The drivers side seems to be ok, but no bass like the system had when I bought the car (used to be able to feel it on my leg). The passenger side sounds like crap again, like it is being overdriven with bass. I would like a complete custom setup at somepoint, but not soon. Any idea what my problem is? Is it the amps? The headunit? I am sure if I replace the door speakers again, same thing will happen. TIA


are you saying you replaced your factory speakers, but are still running mach radio/amps? if yes then that is your problem. The speakers(stock) are 3 ohms. Most aftermarket replacements are 4ohms. So the new speakers don't match up with the signal being sent to them. Also it is possible you crossed the the + or - wires when installing the speakers.
 
green_fow_six said:
How did you wire your JVC to the mach amps? Via the rca preouts? I have had great luck wiring my aftermarket head units High Voltage preouts to the Mach amps via the the small square harness that sends the signals to the mach amps. They sound clean and haven't had a problem since 1997. As long as you get a headunit with at least a front and rear set of RCA preouts, you should be good to go.

I had them (Circuit City - free installation) do it. I dont know what they did but like I said the first time it sounded horrible with no power. Then they used a different harness and got the power back but I think it could sound a little better. Its like there is too much bass, kind of muffled. Its not horrible but I would like it to sound better.

Im not sure what kind of preouts it has. I was going to get the headunit and installation from a car audio specialist but it would have cost $120 more. I guess you get what you pay for. :(
 
tomustang said:
It comes down to the ohms. You need to run same ohms from speaker to amp to headunit. unless you have a converting system.

Reread droptopponynj's post.

You are correct from amp to speakers, but from head unit to amp, the importance is voltage and wattage. It is preferable to run A high voltage preamp output 4v or 5v to the Mach amps though 2V works ok. Just don't run the signal from the headunit's amplified speaker outputs, if you did the mach amps would be amplifying the distortions of your head units amp. You can get a level converter which would sound ok but it still wouldn't be as clean as running a headunit with preamp outputs.
 
droptopponynj said:
are you saying you replaced your factory speakers, but are still running mach radio/amps? if yes then that is your problem. The speakers(stock) are 3 ohms. Most aftermarket replacements are 4ohms. So the new speakers don't match up with the signal being sent to them. Also it is possible you crossed the the + or - wires when installing the speakers.

Ugh. I bought these Sony ones, http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dAP4HjnEijp/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=400&I=158XSW5721
and sure enough in the specs, it says 4 ohms. I am certain I didn't cross the wires when installing as I more than quadruple checked that I didn't. So now what do I do? The impedance is to high and the amps can't drive em? May this have caused any damage? :shrug:
 
02_TruBlu said:
Ugh. I bought these Sony ones, http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dAP4HjnEijp/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=400&I=158XSW5721
and sure enough in the specs, it says 4 ohms. I am certain I didn't cross the wires when installing as I more than quadruple checked that I didn't. So now what do I do? The impedance is to high and the amps can't drive em? May this have caused any damage? :shrug:

actually the higher impedance (ohm) on the speaker would be LESS strain on the amp. It just probably won't sound correct (not as loud). If you crossed the wires, which you said you didn't, you definitely wouldn't get any bass and it would sound strange(out of phase), kind of like a suround like sound.
 
green_fow_six said:
actually the higher impedance (ohm) on the speaker would be LESS strain on the amp. It just probably won't sound correct (not as loud). If you crossed the wires, which you said you didn't, you definitely wouldn't get any bass and it would sound strange(out of phase), kind of like a suround like sound.

No, no surround sound effects. It sounds as though the same speaker (passenger door) blew out again. It has no treble and too much bass. Is there a way to verify the system, as finding out if the amp is good or not?
 
from what I have been told the Mach head unit does not even put out any wattage.. it is simply a signal receiver and converter and the amps are the part that do all the powering to the speakers. I would guess that is why the system sounds crappy when you add an aftermarket deck which has a built in amp and wattage rating per channel.