Help with gremlin in new motor!?!?

[skiwesser]

Okay, stock block .030 overbore, new eagle rods, forged K.B. pistons, Trick Flow #1 Cam (221/225 dur. @.050,.499/.510 lift), AFR 165's, Typhoon intake (port matched to heads),73mm C&L meter, 24# injectors 42psi, 65mm TB, 1 3/4 longtubes w/3 chamber F.M. cat-back.

Problem: In the morning it runs great, I can drive it for 1 hour, or 15 min. to work smooth as silk, but when I shut it off, no matter for how long, 2-3 hrs, or start it right back up and there is a slight skip or miss, most noticable in high gear under load at low RPM's. It has to set like 12 hrs (overnight) to go back to running right, it does this EVERYDAY!

I've tried new plugs, wires, coil, cap & rotor, new O2's, even tried a diffrent CPU, it's like somthing gets hot and causes it, but why does it run good until I cycle it off? I've looked for bad grounds? code scanner came up O2's but that did'nt fix it.

Anyone ever ran into somthing like this?
HELP!!!
Thanks
Wes

 

[Killer50stang]

Check your timing

 

[skiwesser]

Check your timing

Base timing set at 15* with no detonation, even with a 60 shot of gas, (when it's running good). I don't spray it when it's missing of course.

Thanks
Wes

 

[Killer50stang]

Have you tried kicking it back to say 12*

Jason

 

[Roland69]

are you running rich

 

[mnbf]

TFI module?

 

[skiwesser]

Fooling with timing and or fuel pressure doesn't help, didn't lean it out on F.P. but 40-48# doesn't help and I'm afraid anything under 40# would be too lean, according to plugs it's not rich, nice bluish tint on straps.

I thought TFI modules just died, and the car will no longer start at all, am I wrong? That could be it!?!?

 

[Killer50stang]

Fooling with timing and or fuel pressure doesn't help, didn't lean it out on F.P. but 40-48# doesn't help and I'm afraid anything under 40# would be too lean, according to plugs it's not rich, nice bluish tint on straps.

I thought TFI modules just died, and the car will no longer start at all, am I wrong? That could be it!?!?

Sounds like you're running rich, under 40# too lean? What size injectors are you running?

Jason

 

[tbi92rs]

set FP at 38psi, timing at 12* and if that doesnt do it, then swap that TFI module out.

 

[skiwesser]

Okay, stock block .030 overbore, new eagle rods, forged K.B. pistons, Trick Flow #1 Cam (221/225 dur. @.050,.499/.510 lift), AFR 165's, Typhoon intake (port matched to heads),73mm C&L meter, 24# injectors 42psi, 65mm TB, 1 3/4 longtubes w/3 chamber F.M. cat-back.

Problem: In the morning it runs great, I can drive it for 1 hour, or 15 min. to work smooth as silk, but when I shut it off, no matter for how long, 2-3 hrs, or start it right back up and there is a slight skip or miss, most noticable in high gear under load at low RPM's. It has to set like 12 hrs (overnight) to go back to running right, it does this EVERYDAY!

I've tried new plugs, wires, coil, cap & rotor, new O2's, even tried a diffrent CPU, it's like somthing gets hot and causes it, but why does it run good until I cycle it off? I've looked for bad grounds? code scanner came up O2's but that did'nt fix it.

Anyone ever ran into somthing like this?
HELP!!!
Thanks
Wes

42psi

 

[mnbf]

tfi can get warm and car will either run funny or not start or do manythings its cheap and easy to do so why not try it lol

 

[90bluegt]

Pull the codes and see what the computer is saying is wrong. There could be codes even if there isn't a CEL. This will help rather then throwing money or parts at it to figure out the issue.

 

[1991vert]

tfi can get warm and car will either run funny or not start or do manythings its cheap and easy to do so why not try it lol

x2 for the TFI

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong… Codes can be present without setting the Check Engine Light.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

WalMart may have the above LCD display scanner for less than $35.

 

[skiwesser]

I have an actron LCD and, I got codes 91- O2 sensor low voltage/system leanor voltage out of range so I got new O2's.
But I also got code 95- Fuel pump secondary circuit fault.
What is this?
I'ts not running lean.

PS What kind of FWHP would tou guys think I should be making, theoreticly I was thinking about 360-370 wit mods :
.030 overbore, new eagle rods, forged K.B. pistons, Trick Flow #1 Cam (221/225 dur. @.050,.499/.510 lift), AFR 165's, Typhoon intake (port matched to heads),73mm C&L meter, 24# injectors 42psi, 65mm TB, 1 3/4 longtubes w/3 chamber F.M. cat-back.

What do you think of this cam (mostly street driven) and head combo?

 

[skiwesser]

I have an actron LCD and, I got codes 91- O2 sensor low voltage/system leanor voltage out of range so I got new O2's.
But I also got code 95- Fuel pump secondary circuit fault.
What is this?
I'ts not running lean.

 

[jrichker]

No sig to tell what year your car is. The wiring colors and relay circuit are different in the 91-95 models. The following test path is for 86-90 model cars.

Update your sig through the user control panel & I will repost the fuel pump troubleshooting test path for your model if it isn't an 86-90 model.

Code 95 - the 95 code is because at one time or another the fuel pump relay hiccupped and didn't provide power the pump when the computer told it to run. Sometimes this is a one time thing, other times it is a no run or runs poorly condition.

To help troubleshoot the 95 code, follow this link for a wiring diagram http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif

Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the drivers side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. No voltage there, check the Orange/lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. Good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay.

 

[skiwesser]

Haven't got tranny back yet butin thinking I did get the 24# injectors used, could one be getting hot and acting up in this manner (everyday runs great until I shut it off, then there is a slight skip) just to update.

Thanks
Wes

 

[skiwesser]

Well I finally got tranny in this weekend, I tried a friends distributor but still missing when hot and cycled off, and restarted.

Traced it to the #2 fuel injector, swapped in one of my old 19# ones and fixed the skipping.

Now, can I leave that 19# injector and roll with it? If not where can I buy ONE 24# injector?

 

[QUIKSVT]

What kind of FWHP would tou guys think I should be making?

If your making more than 0, post pics!