Help, I got no Volts

I took a trip today to pickup some parts and about an hour from home the volts dropped from 12 to zero in about a mile. I shut off all the electrical stuff and kept driving. Then about five minutes from home the car just flat died, the solenoid clicked once when I tried to restart then nothing after that. My dad come and gave me a jump. Started right up and kept 12volts all the way home. I'm so confused! I've got it on the charger right now to make sure and I'm going to take the alternator over to get tested tomorrow. But what could have caused this behavior? I've never seen it before, any ideas? I'm totally lost.
 
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my guess is a bad alternator, Or a bad ground. Getting the alt checked is the first step, they aren't that hard to pull out and take in for testing. If the Alt checks out ok, replace your battery ground cable and see if that helps.

Dr.
 
before you pull the alt off some simple testing well would help.

Just put a meter on the battery to check available voltage. Then start the car. I'm not trying to sound too simple with this but....If the voltage doesn't go up then you can just about bet money you need an alt. If the voltage does go to the 13's or low 14's then turn on all your acc. blower motor, headlights etc. The voltage might drop at first but should pick back up.

The way to test an internal regulator IS NOT TO PULL THE BATTERY CABLE OFF WHEN ITS RUNNING!!!!!! People tell me this all the time. If I would have ever mentioned that while I was sitting in ford school I would have been smacked.

Disconnect the 3 wire connector if you look on the connector or on the regulator you might see the terminals labeled A, S, B.....I think. Connect a jumper wire from the A side of the connector to the A terminal on the regulator. This elimantes the regulator and the gauge....the gauge most likely can't handle whats about to happen. Now connect a jumper wire to ground and then find a screw near the middle of the regulator that says F or ground here. With the car running running ground the screw and watch your voltmeter. If the reg. was the problem you should have about 18 volts at your battery now. Ford says don't do this for more than 5 seconds.

Recap.
1. Put a voltmeter on battery
2. disconnect the 3 wire connector and jump across the A terminal
3. Ground the "F" screw on the regulator for 5 sec. or less.
4. Watch volt meter to go over 15-16 volts and I've seen nearly 20 volts at the battery.


I worked at autozone for 4 years and have seen their testers say all kinds of wrong things on alternators that I knew were good otherwise. So you might be better served to just put a regulator on your alternator if my test proves thats the problem. All you have to do for the regulator is take the belt off and swing the alt. up and install the reg. Sometimes you can even get to it without moving anything.

Lastly just because you recently replaced the alt. don't count it out.
 
I did the tests like you said. I hooked up the meter to the battery and it read 12 (it was on a charger all night so it better) then I started it and the volts didnt even twitch so I figure the alternator is dead. I'm going to drag it over to napa in a couple of minutes to see if their tester agrees.
 
like I said it only takes 2 wires and you can test it yourself...I'll agree I have very rarely done anything other replace an alt. But if I were to order a $300 alternator and have to wait a day to get it and that still didn't fix the problem. I would get beaten here at the dealership.

You should at least have a better understanding of how the system works, otherwise ask questions.

Ford has gotten in using the PCM to turn the alt on/off to control charging. I can't wait to tell somebody they need a PCM because their alternator isn't charging. Chrylser has done it for years that way though.


Rustbucket: Thanks. It did turn out pretty informative I may insert that into the FAQ section.
 
I went to napa and they said it was toast, $77. Then I went to autozone cuz I noticed the duralast sticker and they said it was toast $98! BUT Since its only a couple of years old they gave me a brand spanking new one for free! I threw it on and it seems to be fine now. Thanks, guys!
 
The alternator that you turned in to autozone will go back to the original manufactor. I believe World Class is the major remanufactor for nearly all the retail parts stores. It goes back there, they test it and replace only the bad components. I've pulled 2 back to back alternators out of the box at autozone that didn't work. I'm not singling them out but as I said I worked there for 4 years so I know how the system works.


Glad you got it fixed.
 
I worked in retail for the first three years of my working life, I know those tricks ...it sucks.

With the old alternator when I started it up nothing happened but with the new one it jumps like it should so I'm thinking that was the problem. If it does happen again, I'm going to throw this alternator through the window as my "return". Probably not, but you get the picture.