BUILDING MY OWN ROTISSERIE

N

Nemesis67

New Member
Jul 3, 2006
146
0
0
Las Vegas, NV
#1
BUILDING MY OWN ROTISSERIE IT'S FINALLY DONE! WITH PICS!!

SO I'VE DECIDED TO BUILD MY OWN ROTISSERIE! :nice:
I'VE GOT 98% OF THE STEEL I'LL NEED AND THE WHEELS AND HYDRAULIC RAMS TO LIFT THE BODY HIGHER OFF THE GROUND. I SURE DO LIKE HARBOR FREIGHT, WITH THEIR DISPOSABLE TOOLS AND CHEAP MADE IN CHINA CRAP! BUT AT LEAST IT KEEPS THE COST DOWN. SO FAR I'VE SPENT AROUND $250.00 FOR STEEL, RAMS, AND WHEELS. MORE TO COME ON THE $ AMOUNT AND THE PROGRESS OF THE BUILD. AS WELL AS PICS!
 

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#9
You'll need some round tubing so you can rotate it. I've also seen one that was built with FWD wheel bearings bolted to it and that's how it rotated.

Here's mine - it's homemade:

rotisserie.jpg
 
#10
I saved a FWD bearing to do mine, then I bought a used Whirly Jig (used once) for $500. :D (yes, I know I suck)

Another way I've seen them is to use a flywheel and a boat winch type hand crank with a starter gear on the end and a paw to stop it in place like a come-a-long would have.

My Whirly Jig has a industrial gear with 90 teeth and a pin to lock it, that gives you increments of 4 degrees between stops. The coolest thing about it is the part they use to balance the car so that you get the center of gravity right. I'm not at liberty to reveal it though, I don't want the hassle of any reprocussions of it, all I'll say is, you don't have to put the car on stands to readjust the center of gravity.

One thing I'll say about rotisserie safety, always keep in mind when installing or removing a part on the car where the center of gravity is. If you have the car neutral and have it upside down and go to install the front suspension, for example, the car will be bottom heavy and since you have it upside down, it's going to want to right itself rather suddenly. I removed the fenders on my Fairlane when I had the car neutrally balanced (you could rotate it with your pinky) and although they're pretty close to the center of gravity, it was no longer neutrally ballanced.
 
#11
xoxbxfx said:
looking pretty good... I can see what steel you are missing. If I were you, Id buy a piece of steel that you can connect the 2 rotisserie pieces together with since they will be on wheels.
Click to expand...

Like I said, I only have 98% of what I need. I'm getting some more square and the round tubing didn't make the photo. And yes I'm going to connect the two ends together. I'm planning on having the hydraulic ram height adjustable. I'll try to get a lot of pics. More to come.
 
#12
Nemesis67 said:
Like I said, I only have 98% of what I need. I'm getting some more square and the round tubing didn't make the photo. And yes I'm going to connect the two ends together. I'm planning on having the hydraulic ram height adjustable. I'll try to get a lot of pics. More to come.
Click to expand...

just a word of advise...keep the rams close to upright as possible or the front bracket will not rotate a full 360*
 
#14
I also plan to follow your progress. Can't tell what cylinders you bought, but I got my 8 ton cyl. also at Harbour Freight on sale for $40 a piece a few months ago.
I also have most of the materials. I am just having a hard time deciding on if I want to have the wheels where they come off or not. They are 10" x 2.5" scaffold wheels with nice heavy brakes. Hope you have it completed in the next month or so:nice: .
 
#15
Travis77 said:
I also plan to follow your progress. Can't tell what cylinders you bought, but I got my 8 ton cyl. also at Harbour Freight on sale for $40 a piece a few months ago.
I also have most of the materials. I am just having a hard time deciding on if I want to have the wheels where they come off or not. They are 10" x 2.5" scaffold wheels with nice heavy brakes. Hope you have it completed in the next month or so:nice: .
Click to expand...

I bought the 3 ton, I figure the whole car fully assembled weighs close to that. So a stripped rolling chassis should weigh even less. The wheels are swivel casters rated at 375 lbs. apiece so I'm looking at 1050 lbs. per stand, which is plenty. I'm planning on welding my wy wheels on, but I could also use U-bolts and bolt them on. Anyway I bought all of this at Harbor Freight: $40 Per cylinder, $17 per caster wheel, that equals $182 with a 10% COOPUN. Not including some more tools, which includes a chop saw (love that thing). Which cost $100, but it has paid for itself in time savings alone. I was cutting some gussets from 3/16" stock tonight and it goes through it like butta :D I've still got a long way to go, and getting the time is a pain since my real job gets in the way. And the constant nagging from the girlfriend that "I don't spend enough time with her." But I'm hacking away at it and deviding my time like anyone else. So that's about it for now, I'll put up some more pics when it gets a little more interesting. Thanks to all who have put in their 2 cents and encouragement.
Until next time...
 
#17
BlackGMC said:
What gauge thickness did you go with on your steel? 1/8??
Click to expand...

The main portions are square 2"X2" 11 guage, which I believe is 1/8". The sliding parts that allow raising and sliding adjustment are 2 1/2"X 2 1/2" 3/16". The round tube that I am using is 2" I.D. 1/8" thick. Which I might change to a thicker tube. All is being braced (gusseted) by left over 2" X 2" and 1/8" thick flat steel.
 
#20
Well this is what I got done this weekend. Not much but it is progress! For those interested I used U-bolts to attach the wheels to the rotisserie. I'm still contemplating on whether I'm going to weld them as well for more strength.


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