Clutch Cable Quadrant-Plastic=Bad

fouredmustang

New Member
Mar 28, 2008
27
0
0
So I call up my local auto parts dealer to see if they have a clutch cable quadrant, and they say no. But the 302 Mustangs have one. I see a lot of metal ones on summit racing but they are all for 302 Mustangs does anyone know if these will work for the 2.3 Turbos as well? If not then it looks like this is the end of my turbo project :mad:

BTW I'm 95% sure its the clutch cable quadrant since I already replaced the cable itself two weeks ago. Plus it makes this "ratcheting" noise after the clutch pedal comes back up.

1) Press clutch pedal down
2) Snap feeling then pedal straight to floor
3) Ratchet sound on way back up.

If anyone knows where to get a metallic one I'd like to know please.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I hope it does work. I'm going to do a little more searching and asking around. If it does look that way though I'll be buying a good quality after market one from summit racing.

edit: I call up the ford dealership parts department in my area, and I find out the parts dealer isnt as knowledgeable about Ford cars as I'd think a Ford Parts Specialist would be. Anyways after some major computers searching on their end he does not find a clutch cable quadrant for the specific 2.3 engine, but when he broadens his search to all engines and all mustangs he finds a kit for 57 dollars. Which leads us back to the it MAY work scenario. :rlaugh:
 
Alright I'm going to order the Ford Racing clutch quadrant from Summit Racing hopefully thats the only part I will need. The Ford parts service at the dealership was selling the complete assembly springs and all for 57 dollars but the part is plastic. So I'm hoping when I go to repair this, the only part I'll need is just the quadrant itself.
 
WOW THIS IS ONE VERY ANNOYING REPAIR!!!! I've removed the plastic quadrant from the vehicle which was held in by a metal clip/hairpin or whatever you want to call it, then slid it off the shaft that went fairily smooth. Then I removed the second metal clip/hairpin closest to the firewall thinking it was going to be over, but NO. I cant remove the second plastic piece (maybe its the self adjuster?) because its retained by a freaking spring!

BTW if anyone has to do this repair, remove the drivers seat its worth it. But dont eat anything before the repair because you'll be upside down slightly for a while then throw up after you stand back up haha.
 
Thanks for your sympathy Red I appreciate it, I got back to work on the car again here in the rain and I actually decided to fight the spring instead of the pawl and it worked, just /w a very long flat tip screwdriver push the spring towards the drivers door and it'll come off the shaft releasing it the pawl.

Now the problem is that the pawl has no room to slide out!!! By my guessing I'll be able to get this repair done in another day or so. If I had more patience probably 3 hrs.

By the way what does the firewall adjuster do for the clutch cable? Increase and decrease the slack or something? I saw a lot of websites recommending that I use a firewall adjuster when using an aftermarket clutch quadrant such as the Ford Racing one I purchased.
 
DO NOT do it without the firewall adjuster, The original quad is self adjusting, the Billet one is not, that's why you need the firewall adjuster. I have a UPR quad, it is a triple claw one, it is great for hard to adjust clutches and will let you put the friction point practically anywhere you want it. Highly recommended. As i recall i had to break the old quad to get it out, and the new one went in pretty easy. I did it without removing the seat. You will likely have to take the rubber grommet off the cable as well to use the firewall adjuster. It will make you clutch feel SOOO much better. again, Dont ignore the adjuster.. you need it.

Dr.
 
Hey thank Doc your post will save me a lot of headache. I see you have a 2.3 turbo hatch, thats awesome! I'll be posting soon my engine swap since I purchased the engine. I was thinking about breaking down the engine and rebuilding it, cleaning it up and honing it to make sure we start with a strong engine. The swap in should take place sometime in the spring unless I can save up enough money for someone else to do it, my schedule is getting hectic.

Although it might happen sooner. The junk yard people gave me a list of major tune up stuff to do to the engine to validate the warranty that came with it, but I'll think I'll just stick to the stinger performance website guide and rebuild it, to make sure I'm getting an engine as close to zero miles as possible.
 
Hey Doc you were right about the clutch feel, it feels pretty damn awesome. I had a more knowledgeable person (husband of a co-worker) come over and we finished the repair in about 2 hrs or so. We had to re-route the cable again, then drill into the firewall to get the adjuster to mount correctly. All in all I feel pretty confident about the repair.

As it turns out my vehicle has lots of power upgrades on it, but we'll explore what it has later on I'm just glad that we have it on the road again.

And yes I did have to remove the rubber off the cable also cut off 4 bumps off the plastic end, which wasnt too hard with my old chefs knife lol.
 
Hey Doc you were right about the clutch feel, it feels pretty damn awesome. I had a more knowledgeable person (husband of a co-worker) come over and we finished the repair in about 2 hrs or so. We had to re-route the cable again, then drill into the firewall to get the adjuster to mount correctly. All in all I feel pretty confident about the repair.

As it turns out my vehicle has lots of power upgrades on it, but we'll explore what it has later on I'm just glad that we have it on the road again.

And yes I did have to remove the rubber off the cable also cut off 4 bumps off the plastic end, which wasnt too hard with my old chefs knife lol.

Glad you like it, Now what you need to do is dump the stock shifter, and get yourself a tri-ax or something similar. That will make the car feel faster cause you can shift it faster It certainly helps the fun factor.

Dr.