oil in throttle body??

The other day i was cleaning under my hood and noticed some oil coming from my inlet tube going into the throttle body.. so i pulled it off and saw a noticable amount of oil in the tube itself and the throttle body. My car is a 07 GT with a Saleen Blower. What would cause this? PVC? to much negative crank case pressure? Anyone else have this issue?
 
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Positive manifold pressure = increased blowby that's pretty much a fact. I wouldn't worry too terribly much about it unless you're seeing a lot of oil pooling. If you're wanting to keep tabs on your blowby (and thus oil consumption) I suggest replacing your PCV and adding an oil catch can with a visible canister so you can monitor how much oil you're collecting.

Blowby is neither uncommon nor desirable. Oil particles in your a/f mix have the negative effect of decreasing your octane value and thus increase the chance for detonation. Still I have heard some say that blowby is not a bad thing to have with positive displacement superchargers because it has the residual benefit of lubricating the screws (not so sure about this last one).
 
Yeah, that oil lubricating the screws is all BS. The screws don't touch each other at all and are mounted on bearings at each end. Don't buy that.

Mine has a Whipple and I see oil in the blower inlet just past the throttle body every time I take the TB off to clean it. I have a Steeda oil separator in line with the PCV hose which does catch some of the oil. I think I may step up to a catch can soon.
 
I made my own oil separator with parts from Home Depot and it works great. I'd recommened it, even for those who don't have forced induction. :nice:

....and it always gets looks of confusion when you pop the hood from those who don't know any better. :D
 
call bret at bku motorsports he will design a oil seperator for your car cost about $50.Bench tested to your cars specs.Or go to home depot and put a seperator made for an air compressor on your $30,000 investment.
 
call bret at bku motorsports he will design a oil seperator for your car cost about $50.Bench tested to your cars specs.Or go to home depot and put a seperator made for an air compressor on your $30,000 investment.

You're kidding right? Bench tested to your cars specs?!?! Please tell me you aren't suggesting that the oil separator made by this Bret guy at BKU is going to be any different than on pieced together from parts at your local hardware store? They use all the same parts. If you want to spend $30 more because some guy put his company logo on it, go right ahead, but lets not put the fear of god into the guy making him think there's anything complex about designing an oil separator. Spending big money on a fancy company logo separator is only going to serve to put money in someone elses pocket. :rolleyes:

To the original poster....just do a Google search on "homemade oil separator" and you'll find about a dozen links on how to make your own.
 
To the original poster....just do a Google search on "homemade oil separator" and you'll find about a dozen links on how to make your own.

Yep, I do the 'New Posts" thing here in stangnet, a while back I saw a thread titled something like : Oil Separator for my (late model engine). :scratch:

WTF, these engines have so much blow by they come with a separator?

I did a Google and darn, didn't find an answer to MY question but did see a whole lot of sites saying how to build your own with parts from the DIY stores, and a whole lot of sites selling saps DIY store stuff with their own logos.



You're kidding right? Bench tested to your cars specs?!?! Please tell me you aren't suggesting that the oil separator made by this Bret guy at BKU is going to be any different than on pieced together from parts at your local hardware store?

Only if the mistake is made of getting one with a pressure retained bleed valve.
 
No logo on the unit , comes flow tested for the cfm specs of the car it is made for with mounting [custom for where you want to mount it] bracket,hoses, clamps and hardware. A line dryer for a air compressor is made to take water from compressed air ,this is not a HD or Husky water filter .Not trying to put the fear of god into anyone on this site.Only trying to steer him toward what I think is a quality product made for a specific job with the correct hoses that can handle the vacuum and pressure aspect of its intended use. And yes Brian you can most likely make an oil filter out of a roll of toilet paper and a coffee can, and it might work for a while but its not made for the job.
 
And yes Brian you can most likely make an oil filter out of a roll of toilet paper and a coffee can, and it might work for a while but its not made for the job.

Let me put it this way.....3-years now with my junk "home made" oil separator with zero issues an no oil consumption what so ever. Intake remains nearly spotless even ramming 10lbs of Positive Displacement boost into the engine.
 
Brian, I never said it was junk. The only point I was trying to make was that for a relitivly small investment compared to the cost of the car, a person that is not as mechcanicaly inclined as yourself can insure that they are getting the right set up that will bolt right on very easily and most likely last the lifetime of the car.
Did you install a PCV valve on the set up you made? I put an inline PCV on mine and it seems to reduce the amount of waste oil found in the recovery cup. I am only ramming 9 lbs [436 rwhp / 390 torque] into my engine.
 
Hey gearbanger, what is your design. I don't have a SC but do have have the blow by issue that I would like to remedy if possible and I'm looking for a simple but effective and dependable system.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
All that oily blowby will reduce your effective octane rating, and add carbon behind the valves and around the spark plugs. All bad side effects. It's worse in supercharged applications.

I added a PCV valve in line with an oil seperator on my supercharged 07 GT. No more oil in the throttle body or intake manifold.

OilCatch03.jpg


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OilCatch01.jpg
 
5.0 , Boy does that set up look familiar. Looks like under my hood except for the seperator mine is a bit different. Non-intercooled? any plans for intercooler down the road? I've been thinking about installing the intercooler next summer got to save some money for that over the winter.Happy motoring.
 
Did you install a PCV valve on the set up you made? I put an inline PCV on mine and it seems to reduce the amount of waste oil found in the recovery cup. I am only ramming 9 lbs [436 rwhp / 390 torque] into my engine.

Hey gearbanger, what is your design. I don't have a SC but do have have the blow by issue that I would like to remedy if possible and I'm looking for a simple but effective and dependable system.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The girlfriend took my car to work right now, but I'll take a picture of it whenever she brings it back. :D

It's pretty much identical to the one pictured here that Steeda sells, but mine hasn't got a bracket to hold it in place and I built mine with brass fittings instead of the plastic ones.

Google Image Result for http://www.steeda.com/products/_high_res/555-3710-oil_sep.jpg

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It cost me all of about $20 to make, vs $70+ to buy. :nice:
 
5.0 , Boy does that set up look familiar. Looks like under my hood except for the seperator mine is a bit different. Non-intercooled? any plans for intercooler down the road? I've been thinking about installing the intercooler next summer got to save some money for that over the winter.Happy motoring.

Erzats, I'm actually going to install the water-methanol injection kit from Snow Performance. Not only does it cool down the intake charge (like an intercooler), but it also raises the effective octane of the fuel, so you can run even more timing than you could with an intercooler. Not to mention, it's a lot less expensive than adding the intercooler after-the-fact. I've been told from various sources that the water-methanol injection is good for at least 100 rwhp when tuned to take advantage of the cooling and octane enhancements it provides.
 
You gonna do the internals? Sounds like your going to be pounding quite a bit of power through that engine. As it stands you've got at least 425 to 430 rwhp now I would think. You will be pushing the envelope of the internals with much more.
 
You gonna do the internals? Sounds like your going to be pounding quite a bit of power through that engine. As it stands you've got at least 425 to 430 rwhp now I would think. You will be pushing the envelope of the internals with much more.

I have a really conservative daily driver tune, and an automatic transmission which takes some of the load off the engine. On a Mustang Dyno, my car makes about 365 rwhp (on a Dynojet, it would be nearly 400 rwhp). With the water-methanol injection, I'd be around 450-470 rwhp, which is about the safe limit for these motors, assuming safe tuning. At that point, I'll be worrying more about breaking the transmission, but Level 10 and TCI both make super tough 5R55S automatics for less money than buying a factory stock transmission, so I may end up going that route when the trans pukes some day.