Do I need adjustable panhard & 3rd link if I only lower the car slightly?

[Undisputed]

Do I need adjustable panhard & 3rd link if I only lower the car slightly? I was thinking of Eibach or FRPP springs... both sets lower the car LESS than 1.5" in front and back, would I need to get the adjustable panhard and 3rd link if I was only lowering the car slightly? I know the race drop or any setup that is MORE than 1.5" front and back lowered I would need adj. panhard n 3rd link... Please Help!! i already have full non adjustable UMI suspension (lower control arms, relocation/traction brackets, 3rd link, 3rd link mount and panhard bar) I would hate to have to replace all of them being only 6 months old...

 

[21MsclCr]

If you have stock rims and tires or at least the normal size rims and tires then no, but if you get 18+ inch rims and wider tires and lower it its going to offset the rear tires (one side will be further to one side of the car, it will no longer be centered correctly) so you will need a panhard bar. I dont think youll ever HAVE to have the 3rd link. I know I dont have it and I dont need it. Panhard bar is only about 120$ so I would just go ahead and get one because if your lowering the car its easier to do it while you are under there working on it. But no you dont HAVE to

 

[Undisputed]

If you have stock rims and tires or at least the normal size rims and tires then no, but if you get 18+ inch rims and wider tires and lower it its going to offset the rear tires (one side will be further to one side of the car, it will no longer be centered correctly) so you will need a panhard bar. I dont think youll ever HAVE to have the 3rd link. I know I dont have it and I dont need it. Panhard bar is only about 120$ so I would just go ahead and get one because if your lowering the car its easier to do it while you are under there working on it. But no you dont HAVE to

O.K. cool, thanks man... yeah, I have 18x10.5" rear wheels w/ 295's...so that adjustable panhard bar will be a must!!! haha Thanks for your input, I'll do them at the same time in a month or two. Do you adjust the panhard bar by eye? Or?

 

[DarkFireGT]

Definitely do that panhard bar with your set-up. If you race at all, I'd get the adjustable 3rd link also, because you're changing your driveshaft pinion angle, and that needs to be adjusted correctly to be at it's strongest. If you don't race, you probably won't have to worry about it.

As far as adjusting the panhard bar, do it with the suspension loaded and level (I usually do it on jackstands, with the rear stands under the axle housing).
- Make a plumb-bob (tie a string to a nut or something equivalent) and hold it or tape it (painters tape) against the fender, at the top of the fender. The string should hang past the center of the wheel, but not touch the ground.
- Measure the distance from the string.
- Repeat for the other side
- Adjust until measurements are the same.
- Tighten lock nut on panhard bar with blue Loctite. (semi-permanent.. will keep nut in place, but will loosen if adjustment is needed later).

 

[Mustanglvr2006]

I have the stock wheels and tires on my GT, if I were to get the Eibach Pro Kit which lowers the car 1.3 in the front and 1.4 in the rear, would I need the panhard rod or anything else, or would I be fine just with the springs as long as I have the stock 17's on the car?

Say I put on 245's in the rear later on would that be fine as well?

 

[Wraith413]

I have the stock wheels and tires on my GT, if I were to get the Eibach Pro Kit which lowers the car 1.3 in the front and 1.4 in the rear, would I need the panhard rod or anything else, or would I be fine just with the springs as long as I have the stock 17's on the car?

Say I put on 245's in the rear later on would that be fine as well?

An adjustable panhard bar and at least the caster/camber bolts if you lower it that much. Darkfire's response to the OP is dead on.