Running Rich issue
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Im pretty sure the dizzy is in correctly, i can try to put it one tooth back to the left, but i am going to try to change the oil first, see what happens... do one thing at a time.
As far as hooking the MAP back up and unplugging the MAF, if that does indeed stop the smoking issue (due to causing a lean condition), would that confirm that its a running rich issue, and not a piston ring seal issue?
Thanks for the help guys
Brian
As far as hooking the MAP back up and unplugging the MAF, if that does indeed stop the smoking issue (due to causing a lean condition), would that confirm that its a running rich issue, and not a piston ring seal issue?
Thanks for the help guys
Brian
Alright, so im back at it, trying to eliminate this issue with the smoking and the smell of gas... idk if i've made any headway, but heres what ive done...
I changed the oil out, the stuff that came out was almost like water it was so full of gas! It would hardly stick to my hand, so thats out of the car, and 4quarts of fresh 10w30 are in, also changed the oil filter.
I also checked out my PCV valve, and it still rattles, from what the chiltons says, this is a good thing, but you will see in the following pics the new question... I know there should be a wire mesh that goes where the PCV fits, but does this look normal?
I started it up after changing the oil, and there is alot less smoking from what it seems (its pretty dark out, ill have to do it again in the afternoon), but still smells kind of like gas. BUT at this point im running catless, just have the MAC tubes coming down from the stock headers, hooked up the o2's, but have not put the H part or mufflers on yet.
I changed the oil out, the stuff that came out was almost like water it was so full of gas! It would hardly stick to my hand, so thats out of the car, and 4quarts of fresh 10w30 are in, also changed the oil filter.
I also checked out my PCV valve, and it still rattles, from what the chiltons says, this is a good thing, but you will see in the following pics the new question... I know there should be a wire mesh that goes where the PCV fits, but does this look normal?
I started it up after changing the oil, and there is alot less smoking from what it seems (its pretty dark out, ill have to do it again in the afternoon), but still smells kind of like gas. BUT at this point im running catless, just have the MAC tubes coming down from the stock headers, hooked up the o2's, but have not put the H part or mufflers on yet.
What's the snot-looking stuff on the breather? If you have doubts, grab a new breather (parts stores should have or be able to order them). The dealer and resto houses have them too.
The oil capacity on a 5.0L with a filter change is 5 quarts. Some dipstick were mismarked.
The spring in a PCV valve can be broken but it will still rattle.
The oil capacity on a 5.0L with a filter change is 5 quarts. Some dipstick were mismarked.
The spring in a PCV valve can be broken but it will still rattle.
Below the screen on the breather, there is like, steel wool or somthing (i dont see snot), i dont know what it is, or if its blocking anything that shouldnt be blocked.
Chiltons said to check by unplugging the PCV while the car is running and feel for vaccum, should the vaccum be coming from the breather on the lower intake, or the PCV valve itself?
In the pics (to my eye anyhow), it looks like there is some kind of gel or goo sitting on top of the screen on the breather.
The breathers do clog up over time. You can get a new one or just soak and clean your old one. Long needlenose pliers are how I remove them but you can use a drywall screw, magnet, screwdriver, etc.
Alright, so i did some digging on the manufacturers website, blue streak electronics canada, and found the part number EM070
Its an ECU out of a 85-86 Topaz or Tempo... Now i still cant tell by looking at the picture if that last number is a 3 or a 0. BUT what i can say is that after unhooking the MAF and reconnecting the MAP, the car hardly put out any smoke, but still did put out some, and smelled strongly of gas.
I know that hooking up the MAP on a MAF converted car will casue a lean condition, but after hooking up the MAP, the car smoking much less, and still running rich (just from smell), it makes me think the shady shop replaced the computer as well... but at this point my rings may be bad and cylender walls washed... if this is the case, i am selling the motor and buying a crate engine
I know chromly rings are pretty tough, im really hoping they are still good after putting new oil in the car and running it a bit on the MAP. I know the car has been converted to MAF, which would require a new harness or splicing into the old one, so hooling it up to the MAP is only a temp fix, i wouldnt want to run it like that when the wiring is setup for MAF, hopefully clears up the running rich issue... *fingers crossed*
Its an ECU out of a 85-86 Topaz or Tempo... Now i still cant tell by looking at the picture if that last number is a 3 or a 0. BUT what i can say is that after unhooking the MAF and reconnecting the MAP, the car hardly put out any smoke, but still did put out some, and smelled strongly of gas.
I know that hooking up the MAP on a MAF converted car will casue a lean condition, but after hooking up the MAP, the car smoking much less, and still running rich (just from smell), it makes me think the shady shop replaced the computer as well... but at this point my rings may be bad and cylender walls washed... if this is the case, i am selling the motor and buying a crate engine
I know chromly rings are pretty tough, im really hoping they are still good after putting new oil in the car and running it a bit on the MAP. I know the car has been converted to MAF, which would require a new harness or splicing into the old one, so hooling it up to the MAP is only a temp fix, i wouldnt want to run it like that when the wiring is setup for MAF, hopefully clears up the running rich issue... *fingers crossed*
Ok so got a few peoples opinions (with them not knowing what it should say) after looking at the pic, have gotten alot of responses from, "it looks lke 070", only 1 person said it looked like 073, and finally someone who said, "it looks like it could be an 078"
So i was sitting here thinking how am i going to tell for sure... relaying back to Blue Streak Electric of Canada's website
and their part search, did a search for all 3 part numbers, em070, em073, and em078, and here is what i found out.
Em070 - out of 86 Topaz - only has 50 Male terminals connections
Em073 - out of 89 - 93 Mustang - Has a grey inside, and has 60 Male terminals
Em078 - out of 86 Mustang - Has a RED inside (opposed to grey), and still 60 male terminals.
So im yanking the ECU out today after i get off work, and confirm what ECU is in the car.
If anyone else has info on a good way to identify, please let me know
So i was sitting here thinking how am i going to tell for sure... relaying back to Blue Streak Electric of Canada's website
and their part search, did a search for all 3 part numbers, em070, em073, and em078, and here is what i found out.Em070 - out of 86 Topaz - only has 50 Male terminals connections
Em073 - out of 89 - 93 Mustang - Has a grey inside, and has 60 Male terminals
Em078 - out of 86 Mustang - Has a RED inside (opposed to grey), and still 60 male terminals.
So im yanking the ECU out today after i get off work, and confirm what ECU is in the car.
If anyone else has info on a good way to identify, please let me know
I would bet the farm that's a 073. The 0 is narrower than a 3 or an 8. You have a 0 right there to compare, the last digit is obviously fatter.
8 is almost believable but if it's an 8 it would only look like a 3 due to damage. It almost looks like it could be an 8 that has been scraped across the middle, but that 7 is perfect, I doubt that's a damaged 8.
Are all your plugs uniformly fouled?
The injectors are given ignition power constantly, the computer switches the ground on and off. I had a mustang where one of the injector ground wires shorted to ground, so that injector stayed on 100% of the time. Same problem as you, lots of smoke, stinking of gas, but no components tested out bad. My hint to the cause was a single fouled plug.
8 is almost believable but if it's an 8 it would only look like a 3 due to damage. It almost looks like it could be an 8 that has been scraped across the middle, but that 7 is perfect, I doubt that's a damaged 8.
Are all your plugs uniformly fouled?
The injectors are given ignition power constantly, the computer switches the ground on and off. I had a mustang where one of the injector ground wires shorted to ground, so that injector stayed on 100% of the time. Same problem as you, lots of smoke, stinking of gas, but no components tested out bad. My hint to the cause was a single fouled plug.
Yea, i was thinking it was 073 as well too, BUT, heres what i did yesterday...
The picture was taken at an angle while the ECU was still in the car, so i took the ECU out of its hold down (still attached to the wiring harness), and got a closer look, and it DOES look like a 0 on closer inspection, it was just the angle of the pic i think.
So after i removed it completly from the car, i somehow wore the sticker off, it scrached on somthing or somthing rubbed off the reset of the number
.
Ill put up some more pictures later when im off work, but here is the newest info.
On the top of the ECU (oppisite of the male connector end), there looks to be a foil type cover, which has a huge hole in it, exposing the internals of the ECU, and there is a chip that looks crushed and has some gunk on it.
Also, there is a part number on the grey plastic piece where it connects to the harness, it is E4LB-14A459-B. from some other forums ive read, this number confirms that it is an ECU made for a SD car, not Mass Air. Anyone able to confirm or point me in the right direction to confirm?
The picture was taken at an angle while the ECU was still in the car, so i took the ECU out of its hold down (still attached to the wiring harness), and got a closer look, and it DOES look like a 0 on closer inspection, it was just the angle of the pic i think.
So after i removed it completly from the car, i somehow wore the sticker off, it scrached on somthing or somthing rubbed off the reset of the number
. Ill put up some more pictures later when im off work, but here is the newest info.
On the top of the ECU (oppisite of the male connector end), there looks to be a foil type cover, which has a huge hole in it, exposing the internals of the ECU, and there is a chip that looks crushed and has some gunk on it.
Also, there is a part number on the grey plastic piece where it connects to the harness, it is E4LB-14A459-B. from some other forums ive read, this number confirms that it is an ECU made for a SD car, not Mass Air. Anyone able to confirm or point me in the right direction to confirm?
Yea, i was thinking it was 073 as well too, BUT, heres what i did yesterday...
The picture was taken at an angle while the ECU was still in the car, so i took the ECU out of its hold down (still attached to the wiring harness), and got a closer look, and it DOES look like a 0 on closer inspection, it was just the angle of the pic i think.
So after i removed it completly from the car, i somehow wore the sticker off, it scrached on somthing or somthing rubbed off the reset of the number
Ill put up some more pictures later when im off work, but here is the newest info.
On the top of the ECU (oppisite of the male connector end), there looks to be a foil type cover, which has a huge hole in it, exposing the internals of the ECU, and there is a chip that looks crushed and has some gunk on it.
Also, there is a part number on the grey plastic piece where it connects to the harness, it is E4LB-14A459-B. from some other forums ive read, this number confirms that it is an ECU made for a SD car, not Mass Air. Anyone able to confirm or point me in the right direction to confirm?
I think E4LB-14A459-B is just the part number for the connector piece.
If it's an 070 and you're right about that being a topaz with a 50 pin connector, count the pins. If you have 50, it's definitely not going to work. I don't even think it would plug in to a mustang harness because we have 60 pin connectors.
But, crushed guts isn't good no matter how you slice it.
If it's an SD computer, having your barometric pressure sensor open to atmosphere will cause you to run rich as hell btw.
yea, when i had the MAP open to the atmosphere, it ran WAAAYY rich and smoked like crazy, after i hooked the MAP back up to the intake, virtually no smoke...
I really think its an SD ECU.
I really think its an SD ECU.
So when my ECU died out about 6 or 7 years ago, i bought a new one, cost me about $120, my step father worked for Midas at the time, (still ASE certified, works on dumptrucks now), got the part, i saw the recieitpt, but dont remember where it was from. But does this look like somthing that a parts place would sell brand new? I think the shop took my good computer and replaced it with this...
And on a side note, i have a new part number that ive done some reasearch on, but am comimg up with mixed results... Part number: E4LB-1(I)4A59-B
It could just be the connector part number for which type of harness it uses, or it identifies the computer as being used an a Speed Density car, so im torn on that one.
And on a side note, i have a new part number that ive done some reasearch on, but am comimg up with mixed results... Part number: E4LB-1(I)4A59-B
It could just be the connector part number for which type of harness it uses, or it identifies the computer as being used an a Speed Density car, so im torn on that one.
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