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I have some questions about a wire and the inertia switch. What is this wire for?
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...and which picture shows the inertia switch tripped and which one shows not tripped?
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That red wire goes to ground for the radio. Its the stupidest thing I have ever heard of.

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Omg...someone butchered the hell out of that wiring !

I'm pretty sure that brown wire that connected to that burned connector is for the tail lights and marker lights.

I think your lighting problem is in your hands...no pun intended.

Can you take a pick of the connector they run to ?

Have you checked the headlight grounds in each corner at the top of the core support ?

When your fuel pump comes on does it run for a few seconds and cut off or does it stay on the whole time the ignition is on ?

These cars cut the pump on and off through the computer with a ground signal to the relay.
Actually they must have had to wire in the connector that's there now. That's the only reason I can think of for why the wiring was even cut in the first place.

As for the fuel pump cutting off. I didn't let it run that long. Here's why. Back when I first installed the fuel system we went to prime system and the pump was running backwards so we figure it out that the new gas tank harness that I bought was wired backwards so we switched wiring around to make it work correctly(we were hot wiring the pump just primenthe system to check for leaks). So fast forward to the time to start the motor for the first time and we had this current issue. So we just used the wire setup until we got to the point to figure out what the problem was. Well while I'm trying to figure the problem out over the last week or so my tuner said that us switching to wires in the harness was probably the issue because the relay is triggered by ground. So I switched the wires back.....but that didn't fix the problem. Fast forward again to the other night when I figured it out. When I got it to work what was the fuel pump doing? You guessed it, running backwards. So I didn't let it stay on long. I'll be switching those wires back tomorrow evening when I do everything else. When I get it all together I'll see if it cuts off after a couple seconds like its supposed to.

But......what if it doesn't? I'm still using the relay so it "should".....right?
 
Actually they must have had to wire in the connector that's there now. That's the only reason I can think of for why the wiring was even cut in the first place.

As for the fuel pump cutting off. I didn't let it run that long. Here's why. Back when I first installed the fuel system we went to prime system and the pump was running backwards so we figure it out that the new gas tank harness that I bought was wired backwards so we switched wiring around to make it work correctly(we were hot wiring the pump just primenthe system to check for leaks). So fast forward to the time to start the motor for the first time and we had this current issue. So we just used the wire setup until we got to the point to figure out what the problem was. Well while I'm trying to figure the problem out over the last week or so my tuner said that us switching to wires in the harness was probably the issue because the relay is triggered by ground. So I switched the wires back.....but that didn't fix the problem. Fast forward again to the other night when I figured it out. When I got it to work what was the fuel pump doing? You guessed it, running backwards. So I didn't let it stay on long. I'll be switching those wires back tomorrow evening when I do everything else. When I get it all together I'll see if it cuts off after a couple seconds like its supposed to.

But......what if it doesn't? I'm still using the relay so it "should".....right?

Without the computer controlling the ground it won't turn off....it'll run constant. I don't see it being a huge issue. When the var is running it runs constant anyway, it's just a way to keep from overheating the pp when the key is on but the motor isn't running.
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The blue with orange stripe is the ground trigger for the FP. Your car should be similar to this schematic
 
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Without the computer controlling the ground it won't turn off....it'll run constant. I don't see it being a huge issue. When the var is running it runs constant anyway, it's just a way to keep from overheating the pp when the key is on but the motor isn't running.
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The blue with orange stripe is the ground trigger for the FP. Your car should be similar to this schematic
Yeah, I was referring to that diagram(@jrichker posted it a couple games back in his troubleshooting article). I'm just wonder what could have happened to those wires because the car was running fine before I tore it apart to do this build. :scratch: Just another reason for me to regret doing the dash swap.
 
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Any wires that have those butt connectors need to be soldered and heat shrinked. That's probably a lot of your problem.

The computer grounds need to be checked. Its a common problem for these cars to loose fuel pump prime due to ground issues...or main relay problems. It all depends on how far you want to get into it. I like my cars electrical system to be as close to factory as I can get it.

A lot of people are terrified of electrical issues. I see them as a challenge....when I'm getting paid for it....and its not my car. When it IS my car I'm cussing and throwing hissy fits like a full grown two year old. Lol
 
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I have every intention on soldering and shrink wrapping those wires. That's the plan for tomorrow evening. As a matter if fact, I bought new 3 in 1 soldering iron, butane torch, heat gun yesterday. Yay, new tool!!!:banana:

As for the computer ground I made sure I put them back where they were originally and they nice and tight. Now the computer/engine harness isnt the original. Its out of an 89. Needed a mass air harness for my conversion. It already had a bad ground on the TFI part of the harness that plugs into the distributor. So maybe this harness has bunch of ground wire issues. :shrug:. I guess I'll find out if there are any more real soon when I start driving the car.
 
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Well here's a little bit of an update. I Plasti-Dipped my fenders last week at the firehouse and did my hood yesterday at the firehouse. Its been freakishly slow the past week. Its probably the calm before the storm because I work at one of the busiest firehouses in New Orleans.

Anyway, if you're wondering why I'm plasti-dipping panels in a Dave-ish kinda way. If you look back in the beginning of this thread you'll see that my car was like 3 different colors after the shtty body work was done to fix where it was damage in the accident the PO was in. And after talking to the insurance company I'm going to insure the car with I wanted the car to be only 2 colors if it couldn't be just 1. They told me to help the approval process of my car getting covered for $25k I need to take the best pictures of the car and everything that is done to it that I possibly can and list, in detail, everything that has been done. So I figure it would look better if the front clip and roof were black and the rest of the car was the original blue. They are aware that the car will still need paint. I'll have pics later today or tomorrow.

Also I cleaned up and painted the replacement rearend housing that I bought. I have come to the realization that when, the first shop that built it, welded the axle tubes they didn't put it on a jig to insure the tubes wouldn't distort from the heat. So from the noises coming from it when we loaded/unloaded it on the trailer to bring it to my house and pushed it into my garage, im pretty sure the axles tubes are the problem. They're probably worped enough to make noise but not enough to keep everything from moving internally. So I bought another stock housing and will have my engine builder put all the internals in the that one...crossing my fingers and praying that none of the internals are damaged. Yes, his shop builds rearends and transmissions too. The only reason I didn't go to him from the start was because he's about and hour drive away and I wasn't ready to build the rearend when I had the shortblock done. So I found a shop locally to do it. BIG mistake on my part.:doh:

Tonight me and my buddy's will be fixing the wiring issues I finally discovered. Maybe Sunday I'll Plasti-dip the front bumper cover at work if I work OT. If I don't work OT I'll do it at my house along with the roof and cowl area. Oh, and I'll be getting my new tires (that I've been having since last year around this time) mounted and balanced tomorrow before I leave town to bring the rearend to get fixed.

Aaaahhhhh...progress. It feels good to finally make some. :D
 
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Here's the video I took when I started the car with the key for the first time without issue. This was last Sunday. Warning: She doesn't like cold starts. She surged until she got some temperature in her but after that it smoothed out.

Fast forward to this past Sunday. I got a late start on fooling with the car so I didn't get much done but I did manage to find a damn fuel leak. It's small but a leak none the less. It's coming from the fitting going to the back of the driverside fuel rail. It's a small but steady drip. Hopefully I can tighten the fitting up a little more on the hose and that will seal it. If not I'll just take it off, cut about 1/4" off the end and reinstall the fitting. It's PTFE so it's not as much hassle as AN lines. The only reason I found it was because I was under the car trying to figure out where to mount my driveshaft safety loop and I saw a drip stain on the bottom of the bellhousing. It kinda looked like oil so I went searching for an oil leak when I stumbled upon the drip coming from that fuel line/fitting feeding the driverside fuel rail. It only drips slightly faster when there is pressure in the lines. It'll be fixed this week.

I got the call this morning that my rearend is ready. :banana: So I'll be getting that back this weekend.

Well here's the video....Don't mind that OH SHT moment at the end. It wasn't bolt down, it was just sitting up there.

View: https://youtu.be/86fYP3dvAac
 
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Making so much power you blew the hood clean off, huh?

Your coupe sounds much cooler than my coupe will sound when i finally get it started Craig.

Good job man:nice:
 
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That thing sounds pretty nice, man. The car scared the hood clean off. Lol

Hope your hood didn't get banged up too much.

Would loved to see the look in your boys face when he backed away from that car.
 
The hood got a couple of scuffs on the plasti-dip in a couple spots. Nothing major. It will need a little work when its time to paint it anyway.

My son just ran away screaming and laughing in excitement. He told me it was hurting his ears. After that he asked when was I gonna put the mufflers on. I told him, "soon, real soon".
 
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The hood got a couple of scuffs on the plasti-dip in a couple spots. Nothing major. It will need a little work when its time to paint it anyway.

My son just ran away screaming and laughing in excitement. He told me it was hurting his ears. After that he asked when was I gonna put the mufflers on. I told him, "soon, real soon".

My youngest son is 10 and he's all about my mustang. His eyes get huge every time I start it. Lol

My kids think my car is the loudest fastest car in the world. If they only knew.

I want a t top car bad....but its not in the budget.
 
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My youngest son is 10 and he's all about my mustang. His eyes get huge every time I start it. Lol

My kids think my car is the loudest fastest car in the world. If they only knew.

I want a t top car bad....but its not in the budget.

Both of my girls are about mustangs... Its always can we take daddy's car as it is just like one of the family. Glad to see that it runs in the family for you as well.
 
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Well, my car has a rearend again! I sure hope it doesn't make that horrible noise it made before. I'm almost positive it won't tho. This is a completely different housing.
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I took the SVE upper and lower control arms out and put in the UPR adjustable upper and lower controls arms. Look how pretty!
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I did all of this while the Superbowl was on. None of my teams were playing so I found something better to do.
 
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Update: My brakes won't bleed. :bang: While trying to bleed them I started the car a couple times. Well on the last time it wouldn't start. It would turn over with no problem but it refused to start. :fuss::fuss: So after checking for power everywhere that needs power I think I narrowed it down to the coil. Yes, the brand new(EVERYTHING on this thing is new) MSD Blaster TFI coil. I borrowed a buddy's older version of the same coil to confirm that that is the problem but I just got overly aggravated and had some other thinks that needed to be done. So I quit for the night.

Back to the brakes not bleeding issue. Friday I gutted the stock proportioning valve so I could use the adjustable proportioning valve that I just bought. I just put the stock plug back on it until my solid one comes in in a couple of days. Here's what happened when we attempted to bleed the system. Had my buddy pump the brake pedal til it got stiff, hold it, then I open the bleeder at the farthest wheel from the MC.....NOTHING...he said the pedal didn't go to the floor(which he said it wasn't far from the floor anyway) and nothing came out of the bleeder.The from brake grab but the rears won't. QUESTION: This may be a stupid question but do the wheel cylinders need to be bench bled? Could the fact that the stock proportioning valve is gutted and I reused the stock plug instead of a solid plug? Oh, and I haven't put the adjustable on on yet. I doused the joint on the firewall with WD40 because these 30 y/o brake lines don't seem to like coming loose. I was giving it some time to get in there so I don't strip and of the lines trying to get them off. I DO NOT want to replace brake fittings. I hate having to flange brake lines.