Brakes Do I Have To Gut The Stock Proportioning Valve To Use An Adjustable One?

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If you are going to remove the plug and gut it I highly suggest you use a 6pt box end wrench to remove it. The bolt head is thin and it's soft aluminum. Mine was stuck on there pretty good and I destroyed the bolt getting it out. The threads for the brake lines are even more sensitive to cross threading. At the end I said eff it and got the MM delete kit. Nobody makes these prop valves and they are pricey if you mess it up.

Good luck bro!

P.S. Any updates on the car?
 
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Thanks. I was going to attempt to gut it while its still on the car because I know how sensitive the brake lines are and I did notice how thin that bolt head is.

As for updates on the car. I'm almost there. I'm just finishing up some odd and ends so I can put on the ground and have it move under its own power. It may not happen today because I'm working alone and I'll need help bleeding the brakes. I'm about to change a leaking fuel fitting and do I once-over on everything under the hood and under the car. Then I'll start putting the interior back in.
 
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I had to remove the prop valve and hold it in a vice to get the bolt out. Mine was stuck in there pretty good, hopefully yours will be easier on you.
Ok I got lucky. The plug came out without too much fight....and I didn't remove the whole proportioning valve out of the car. Will the stock plug work fine once I get all the internals out or will it spring a leak. I saw that MM has a solid plug but is that absolutely necessary?